Pitch a Tent!

Summer in Seattle means time-to-go-camping! Last year we only got out twice, but both times were awesome.

The first camping trip we did in July. Dayne and I headed out to Lake Quinault and the Willaby Campground. Neither of us had been before and it ended up being a great choice, we just loved it out there! The campground is so green and lush and right on the lake. We found the best site, down a set of steps and completely private from the other campsites, but the whole campground seemed very nice.

The area has lots of hiking option ranging in difficulty and distance. The trails go through amazing forests of huge, old growth trees, as well as next to the lake shore, over waterfalls and past the Lake Quinault Lodge. You can see the largest spruce on one trail, and the largest cedar on another. It's all really beautiful.

After a morning of hiking, we inflated the raft and went for a float on the pretty and serene lake in the afternoon. We saw others fishing, paddle boarding and boating.

Our second trip last summer was back out towards Salmon la Sac for a group camping weekend. This time Jen and I weren't as lucky and all the sites were booked by the time we arrived. We scrambled around with Gary and Elisabeth and finally crossed the river and grabbed an unofficial site. It ended up being great because 1) there was a fire ban and you just can't sneak a tiny fire while in a regulated site and 2) it was during the Perseid meteor shower and without lights or neighboring campfires we could see an amazing site!

The weather that weekend was so hot that we all took our rafts to Lake Cle Elum and spent the entire day floating and swimming in the lake. I can't remember the last time I swam, not just waded around, in a lake and it was awesome. We all felt like kids again!

Next weekend will be our first camping trip of the season, bring on the s'mores!

Sizzling Sin City!

You know the old saying "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas", but I think now a days, people should consider that with everyone equipped with smart phones and internet access, the saying should be "What happens in Vegas, stays on Facebook".

Case in point; Rachel, Ally and I headed down to sin city to see his purple greatness aka Prince about a month ago. We landed late morning, our town-car driver waiting to take our bags to the car, and were whisked off to the Wynn Encore, our preferred hotel choice as it is small, upscale and free of children. A quick check in (both to the hotel and on Facebook) and we were changed into our suits and sitting down to a delicious and wine-fueled lunch.

A little drinking in the pool, a little hot-tubbing (no time machine!), and some pool side gambling makes me a very happy girl. As the afternoon ended, we headed upstairs where we had champagne chilling on ice, and had a little Prince dance party in our beautiful room.

That night we headed to RM Seafood for dinner. I'm not in the habit of bashing businesses online so I'll just say that I don't recommend it and leave it at that. Afterward we swung over to check out the new and very hyped Cosmopolitan, we all thought it was overhyped and not all that great, but Rachel did win big so at least the cab ride was covered ;)

The next day we decided to go to the Encore Beach Club for Will.I.Am's show. Some Boston guys, on a bachelor party, had rented a cabana for $10k and had invited us to join. We really had no idea what to expect, which was evident by the fact that we sauntered to the front of a 2 hour queue and griped about having to wait for 20 minutes to be let in. We walked into a total rave, happening in broad daylight. It was absolute madness. The lifeguards were in the pool, making sure people didn't get too friendly, if you know what I mean. Boys and girls behaving badly and it wasn't even 1pm. And amateurs drinking too much, leading to situations like this...

If you are wondering if that is any of us, you don't know me or my friends very well. We would never touch our knees to a public bathroom floor!

We stayed till the end of the show, both Will.I.Am and the crazy people watching, each entertaining in their own right, before leaving the madness to escape to the spa for a soak and a massage. Two worlds were never so different.

That night we had a lovely meal at the ever reliable, ever delicious, Bouchon. It's a bit of a tradition for us to eat there, one I am happy to continue! Then we were off to the Hard Rock Hotel's Joint for Prince. It was an amazing show! He sang new stuff and old stuff, he played guitar, he played piano, he was awesome.

A bit of gambling till the wee hours, room service breakfast the next day, and a full afternoon by the pool before an early evening flight home, made for a really great girl's weekend. And a lot of good Facebook posts!

Vegas snaps

Sun-Drenched Sorrento

I'm craving sunshine. It always happens this time of year, when spring hits Seattle with her grey clouds and wet days. A couple of years ago, May of 2011 to be exact, we fled soggy Seattle for sunny Italy. A precursor to a cruise up the Italian coast and into France, we flew into Naples and boarded a bus for an hour long ride along the curvy roads to Sorrento. Immediately we had our first look at Mt. Vesuvius, stunned at how close it was and how many homes we could see hugging its sides. Our first glimpse of Sorrento was much more serene. We could tell we were in for some serious beauty shots.

 

We stayed at the lovely Hotel Belair which was a short walk from the center of town. As the hotel was on a small hill, looking down onto Sorrento and its bay, we were overwhelmed with stunning views each and every day. The staff was quite nice also, serving us drinks while we waited for our room to be ready and always eager to help with directions, taxis, etc. 

 

That first day, after a short nap, we walked into town and were immediately struck by the scents of jasmine everywhere. We strolled along the main part of town, found the Bar Fauno and enjoyed great martinis and people watching.

Sorrento was to be our home base for the next 4 days while we explored the Almalfi Coast, Pompeii and Naples. We didn't actually do a lot in the town itself but we found it to be very central for the Circumvesuviana (train around Vesuvius), the buses, and the boats.

We never had a great meal in Sorrento. We had good meals and we had ok meals. The first evening we ate at l'Antica Trattoria which we found very expensive for kindof boring food. We ate at O'Parrucchiano which was inexpensive but still just ok food. Taverna Allegra was a cheesy place drawing lots of tourists but the food was actually good. And dinner at the Parco Ibsen was in a very interesting location, had good prices and good food but still not something I'd say "Wow!" about. 

But I'd stay in Sorrento again, and I'd stay at the Belair again. The pool, the view, the bar, and the breakfasts were all top notch. 

Now don't you feel warmer already? I do!

Sorrento photos

Walla Walla Wine Weekend Redux

And speaking of wine tasting, we spent a very enjoyable weekend recently in Walla Walla during Cayuse Release. Dayne and I left Friday morning so we could make a few leisurely stops along the way.

Our first stop was in Selah where I had made arrangements to stop and taste the wines at Southard Winery. We made our way up the hills and found the Southard's gorgeous home and small vineyards. Scott Southard is 34, but looks 28, and has just been making wine since 2008. His winery, cave and tasting room are all in a dedicated building constructed next to his parents house.


I'd been reading about his wines, and reviews from some respected wine sellers promoting his talent. The wines are light Rhone styles mainly, all at excellent price points. Without having a formal tasting room, Scott just happily opened what I was interested in, which was very nice of him. If you're passing through the north Yakima area, I highly recommend you call and see if he's available to give you a tasting. In Seattle you'll an find his wines at Picnic, Hot Cakes, Esquin, etc.


Hungry for lunch we took Sonja's recommendation to try the burgers at King's Row Drive In. A tiny, local joint, walls adorned with every school's sports team, and a big menu of drive-in classics. We declared ourselves first-timers at the order window and took their advice- Dayne chose the Garbage Burger. Bad name, great burger. The chocolate shake and onion rings were delish. Not as big, burgers or actual space wise, as Minor Burger, this was a bit more my speed.

Back on the road we stopped just outside of Walla Walla at L'Ecole. We've stopped here every time we've visited the area but always on the way out of town. Mixing it up by making it our first stop, we tasted through their current release scored a few bottles from their library collection on sale.


After checking in at the stylish and budget friendly Holiday Inn Express (my eye teeth for a Kimpton Walla Walla) we headed out for some pre-dinner drinks. We haven't always had the best luck with cocktails in town but I was pleasantly surprised by my Pear Amoré with pear brandy, Benedictine and an absinthe rinse at Public House 124.

A short walk down the street, past the lovely park and boutiques, we arrived at Brasserie Four for another delicious dinner, as we'd eaten there the last time.


Our friends Gary and Elisabeth drove over Friday night and we all met up in the morning, starting our day at Bacon & Eggs. This adorable converted, convenience store serves up breakfast, breakfast cocktails and lunch. Hipster and delish. There's usually a bit of a wait but they'll give you some complimentary scones to tied you over.

We then made our way down to state line to Cayuse's cellar, or The Box as they call it, for our release weekend tasting and wine pick up. After our tasting we headed into Milton Freewater to check out a wonderful chocolate shop, Petits Noirs. Oh this chocolate is good, really good! Worth the short drive for sure!

Back on the wine tasting trail we made stops at Feliciana (great grounds, nice folks, but I wasn't especially keen on their wines) and Sleight of Hand (always in my favorites list, especially happy to grab some of their rose). Another mid day diversion was the Walla Walla antique market where we picked up some gorgeous new cocktail coupes.

We finished off the afternoon by parking in downtown and walking between Rotie, Mark Ryan and K Vitner tasting room. All "do-not-miss" stops in my opinion.

Dinner that night was at the Marc where we had been for drinks in the past, but not for dinner. A friend of ours sent a note to the chef, who she knows, and magically a few lagniappes arrived on the table. It's always fun to get a little extra. The somm was also happy to let me know about his last bottle of an older Pedestal that wasn't on the list anymore.

All our food was good, but the dishes (a foie gras course and a crab salad) that the chef sent out were the best.

The next morning we tried to eat at the new and highly recommended Maple Counter Cafe but the wait was a crazy (1hour 30 mins) so we had some average egg dishes at a downtown diner and then headed out to perennial favorite, Gramercy Cellars.

We bid farewell to Gary and Elisabeth and took a quick detour to check out the new winery, Foundry, just next door. It's a winery and an art gallery with this amazing patio. I highly recommend you check it out if you haven't before.

While driving home we decided to stop in Union Gap to try some tamales from Los Hernandez. For $16 you can get a dozen chicken or pork. We got a mix and strangely both of us liked the chicken better. But these tamales are damn good! We were sad to learn that we were a week early for his seasonal asparagus and cheese, limited edition tamales. Next time I'm bringing a cooler and coming home with some frozen ones for quick and delicious dinners.

Another great weekend in Walla Walla, already looking forward to the next trip!

Not mine...

Walla Walla photos here.
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The Bull's Blood of Eger

For our last day in Hungary I had arranged a private trip out to the Eger wine region for Dayne, Brian, Anne and I thru Taste Hungary. Carolyn Bánfalvi, who is one of the founders, could not have been more helpful and arranged a very nice day trip for us, an especially tricky task as many of the wineries were still closed for the holidays and she herself was going to be out of town.

Our guide Dora arrived with a mini-van early in the morning. As we drove, she explained the area and the wines that we would be tasting. Eger is know for it's Bikaver or Bull's Blood wine which is a blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch), and Cabernet Sauvignon. Over the years the wine has gotten a bit of a bad rap from communist efforts to dumb down quality resulting in a cheap wine. Now the winemakers of Eger (only the wine from this area can be called Bull's Blood) are focused on making quality wines and reshaping their history and reputation.

I'd like to tell you all about how pretty the drive through the Hungarian countryside was, but the fog was so thick we couldn't even tell if there were hills, trees, or towns outside. After a 2-hour drive east we reached our first stop in the town of Egerszalok, St Andrea, which is regarded as one of the best wineries in the region. This winery is just 10 years old and the wine maker here is one of only two in Hungary with a PhD in winemaking. We had a private tour through the cellars and then sat down for a tasting of their 8 current releases, starting with a very nice rose. The winery was open only to us and it was very informative, delicious and fun!

After purchasing a few bottles we loaded back in the mini-van and headed to Eger for lunch at Imola Wine Restaurant, which is the best restaurant in the town and constantly rated in the country's top lists. If you are in the area and don't have time for a lot of proper wine tastings, this is a great spot as their wine list is very impressive. They do modern adaptations of traditional Hungarian food.

After lunch we had just a short amount of time to walk through the quaint town. Along the cobblestones you'll find a few cute shops selling epicurean items, some tasting rooms offering wine, a handful of cafes, a pretty central square and various monuments as Eger has a long history of battles, sieges and rulers.

 

Our next stop, just a short drive away, was Nimrod Kovacs, named for the owner who spent a fair amount of time living in the US and is a partner in Starry Night Winery in California. Again we started with a private tour of the cellars, explanations on their wine making process and the effect on aging that the strange moss that grows on the walls, has on their wines.  The area that the winery is located in is one of the oldest neighborhoods consisting entirely of cellars in the area. It's quite interesting and again points to the long history of wine making in the region.

They had planned to have us taste in the caves but there was a strange and unpleasant odor that they hadn't been able to find the cause of, so we crammed in the owners office. We tasted through 6 of their current releases and although all good, I wasn't as fond of these as I was the St Andrea. 

Back in the van, we were off to our last stop of the day, the Valley of the Beautiful Women, just on the outskirts of Eger. This neighborhood is filled with dozens of wine cellars all lined up together, making it quite a tourist draw. Because of that there are a lot of "cheap and cheerful" wines being made but Taste Hungary had arranged for us to try the wines of Hagymasi Cellar at #19 which although still simple and inexpensive, was also well made and interesting. The real draw here is the area, all the wineries have these great caves built into the side of the hills, and it's a fun place to go with your friends for wine drinking. 

It was such a nice day of wine tasting, completely stress free thanks to the thoughtful itinerary provided for us along with our great guide Dora. We snoozed in the van on the dark drive home, still unsure of what the country side looks like!

Upon returning to Budapest and saying goodbye to Brian and Anne, Dayne and I had a light meal at the really excellent Borkonyha Winekitchen. Unfortunately neither of us were that hungry but the small dishes we had were excellent and I'd recommend making reservations for this gem.

The next morning we packed up and checked out of our lovely hotel. Next stop Bratislava!

  

All pictures from our wine tasting day are here.

Christmas in Budapest

After our really nice day of sightseeing Brian, Anne, Dayne and I were excited for our Christmas Eve dinner. We had booked at the 1 star Michelin Onyx Restaurant as they were putting on a special multi-coursed meal complete with wine pairings, many of them Hungarian.

The restaurant was absolutely beautiful. I wish I could adequately describe the richness of the wallpaper, decor, table settings, purse stools and chairs. Especially the chairs! Anne and I were seated in these massive black thrones, we felt like queens. It was a fantastic evening, starting off with glasses of Billecart Salmon Champagne, then being catered to by men in white linen gloves through seven courses of gorgeous dishes.  Some, like the goose liver torte with coffee gelee paired with a demi sec Tokaj, really were amazing.

Another stand out was the venison filet with truffle jus (even though it also had beets!)

We all rolled out full, happy and feeling festive! I'd absolutely recommend the restaurant to anyone looking for a Michelin experience in Budapest.

Dayne and I slept in on Christmas day and had a long lunch at the delicious and historical Central Cafe. The huge coffee shop attracts tourists and locals alike. They have delicious goulash and a drool worthy pastry case. We experienced it all.

 

After a relaxing walk around town to burn off some of that torte we headed back to our hotel to get ready for our Christmas night out. We were attending a chamber concert and then having dinner on a river cruise. 

The concert took place in the Danube Palace which was very old, small and a bit tatty (not the palace you see above, it was in one of the buildings to the side). But the music was great, the musicians were really having a good time and we loved putting titles to the music we'd heard for so long. Vivladi, Brahms, Strauss and Erkel were just some of the composers represented. 

After the concert we headed to the river and boarded one of the cruise boats. This is much more of a typical tourist thing than we normally do, but being Christmas and not having many choices we were looking forward to seeing all the magnificent buildings along the waterfront lit up. They were serving dinner also, which we weren't expecting much from, but it ended up being better than average. The views from the outside deck of the boat were just as incredible as we had hoped. It was a very twinkly, tasty and musical Christmas!

To wrap up our Christmas, the next day we had another wonderful lunch, this time at the Gerloczy Cafe. The cafe sits in a charming little square and is known for their delicious fresh baked bread, all warm right from the oven. Paired with the wild boar soup and a cucumber, sour cream salad, it was just enough to tie us over so we could spend the day soaking at the famed Szechenyi Bath House.

We arrived by metro, the tiny subway cars and stations seem hardly big enough for the population of the city. It was mid day and still light out as we entered the main door. We had read all the ins and outs about bath culture in Hungry and rented a shared changing room/locker in the coed area. It was almost impossible for us both to change out of our bulky jeans and sweaters and into swimsuits in the tiny compartment. Giggling we quickly went out and stepped into the first warm pool we saw. It was probably 34F outside! This pool was warm, not hot, and in the very center of it the water was an "adventure pool" moving in a fast circle, taking shrieking bathers with it as it flowed round and round. It was so fun! It's hard to describe but we took a "ride" in this over and over again.

Szechenyl has a total of 15 pools, some small, super hot baths, others large lap pools. Only 3 are outside and that is where we chose to stay. As the day turned to dusk and a slight drizzle fell, the glow from the pool lights and the steam rising all around seemed magical. We moved to a much hotter pool and just bobbed around soaking for hours.

Do not miss a trip to the baths while in Budapest! Take your own towel from your hotel, some flip flops and your suit. It's a relaxing and super enjoyable way to see how the locals live :)

We wrapped up our day with really amazing drinks at the Boutiq Bar, chatting with the bartender Akos who just happened to have spent some time living in north Seattle. Fantastic cocktails and a really interesting space (Anne & Brian have you finally gone?). And then dinner at the Callas Cafe which was good if you are in the area, but maybe a tad expensive.

We turned in a bit early as we had a full day coming up exploring the wine country!

All photos here!

P.S. I Love You

I'm just home recently from a relaxing 5 days, spent mainly by the pool, in Palm Springs. I had never been before but Lauren and Paul go every year. This time they rented a cool mid century modern home and seven of us went in on it.

I flew in a few days after the rest and immediately hit the pool. The house had beautiful views of the surrounding hills and some great outdoor living space for chilling out. We mainly kept to the house, grilling and cooking together, mixing up various drinks by the pitcher to enjoy while lounging in the pool.

But one specific reason for the trip was to attend the Indian Wells Tennis Open. Us girls had tickets to Wednesday's quarter final events and we were all very excited, the boys were headed off to golf. I don't know much about tennis but was looking forward to a little lesson from the others. Unfortunately the morning started out with Lauren having to go to the emergency room for what turned out to be a return of DVT she'd had in years past.

Mary, Caroline and I started the morning with a men's double- Huey & Janowicz against Blake & Fish. The action was so fast on the doubles!We were sitting in the GA grandstands as the stadium had filled rather quickly and the views of the match and the mountains was a great way to start the day!

 

Next up was one of Mary's new favorites, Gilles Simon. He was playing Kavin Anderson in the main stadium where we had box seats. I couldn't understand why there weren't more people watching the match, for about 20 minutes. But then when I felt like I was in an oven, roasting at 475F, I figured it out! It was CRAZY hot. Most people were out on the lawn or in one of the bar tents, watching it all on the big screen TVs in the shade.

We took a break from the oven, I mean stadium, and lounged on the lawn for a bit, cooling down in the shade. We were waiting for the matches between Federer and Wawrinka and then Nadal and Gulbis and knew it was going to be scorching. Luckily the women's matches went on extremely long so we didn't have too long before the sun set when we went back in.

 

Our seats were fantastic and the action on both games was just awesome! Mary and Caroline taught me a lot and I may just have caught the tennis bug. I'm ready for next year!

The next night, after a full day by the pool, most of us went to dinner at Tinto at the Saguaro, which was excellent. When we got home I stayed up with Alex and Carolyn to have a few nightcaps before heading to bed. The next morning we learned that the casita (a converted garage next to the main house) they were staying in had been robbed while we were at dinner and they were watching movies in the living room! Cash, clothing and toiletries had been stolen, the credit cards and mobile phones mysteriously being returned to the outside of the house early in the morning. The whole thing was freaky! 

The day before we left, Steve and I drove out to Palm Canyon and did a short hike up onto one of the ridges. This is a gorgeous area, with both short/easy as well as longer/tougher hikes. And of course the warm water springs that nurture the massive Fan Palms, a vision of an oasis. 

 

Even with the few snafus, I've gotta say, I'm a fan of Palm Springs now!

All photos here.