tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75692269846412788382024-03-15T18:11:21.343-07:00Luggage Tag...Travel experiences from around the world; stories of wine, food, cocktails, and friends! Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.comBlogger490125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-31957573795235922882024-03-03T13:15:00.000-08:002024-03-04T12:34:29.513-08:0048 Hours in Waikoloa<p>Trip date: May 2023</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884868594_28a4f3af5d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="665" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884868594_28a4f3af5d_b.jpg" width="532" /></a></div><p>I left Volcanoes National Park and drove Hwy 11 northeast to Hilo, about 45 minutes away. I've never been to Hilo, and really still haven't as it was just a good spot to have lunch on my way over to the west side of the island. I was going to spend my last 2 nights on the Big Island relaxing by the pool in Waikoloa.</p><p>A friend had suggested <a href="https://www.suisan.com/our-services/fish-market/" target="_blank">Suisan Fish Market</a> for takeout poke and it was absolutely delicious! I ate at a picnic table with a view of the ocean at Liliʻuokalani Gardens. This park is just stunning and was donated by Queen Liliʻuokalani, the last Queen of Hawaii before being overthrown by the US in their move to take Hawaii. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52885063408_0d3e818d4b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52885063408_0d3e818d4b_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>I didn't have a lot of time to stroll around but the park has a beautiful Japanese garden and great views of Hilo Bay.</p><p>I had chosen to take Saddle Road across the middle of the island, which cuts right between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea. It's about 62 miles long and hits 6,632 feet elevation around mile marker 28. Although it was a beautiful sunny day, it got dang cold at the crest!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52885076233_0798b11136_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="581" data-original-width="800" height="465" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52885076233_0798b11136_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>I pulled over for views of Mauna Kea but that's all there is out here! There are no services at all on this road so plan accordingly. But the entire drive was beautiful.</p><p>I arrived at the <a href="https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/koamc-waikoloa-beach-marriott-resort-and-spa/overview/?scid=f2ae0541-1279-4f24-b197-a979c79310b0" target="_blank">Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort </a>where I had booked 2 free nights which I got when I opened my <a href="https://www.referyourchasecard.com/252f/MY6GTORK90" target="_blank">Marriott Bonvoy Boundless Card</a>. When I checked in they let me know they had also upgraded me to a big King room with a view of the pool and the ocean. They also gave me 2 free drink coupons. Mai tai with a view, lovely!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884828239_bf59f29eca_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884828239_bf59f29eca_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>I went down to the pool for a while as it was still super warm and sunny. The pool here is great! There are actually 3; 1 is super shallow and has a little sand beach for kids, another has a water slide, and then there is a full length pool. This would do nicely!<br /><p>That evening I walked about 10 minutes to Queens' Marketplace outdoor mall and met my friend Noelle at <a href="https://kuleanarum.com/kuleana-rum-shack/" target="_blank">Kuleana Rum Shack</a> where our friend Missy was working. Delicious drinks were had while catching up with these 2 lovely ladies.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883781512_2012dc88bd_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883781512_2012dc88bd_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>The next day was absolutely gorgeous! I started the day with a hike along the beach trail where I saw both nēnē (Hawaiian geese) and honu (Hawaiian Green sea turtles)! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884756234_732c80676a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884756234_732c80676a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>I also saw dolphins in a hotel pool that you could swim with. How is that even a thing still??? I was shocked. </div><div><br /></div><div>Back at the Marriott, I rented a cabana at the pool for the day. It was absolutely wonderful!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52889347826_56b239983d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="556" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52889347826_56b239983d_b.jpg" width="445" /></a></div><br /><div>Sometimes <strike>you</strike> I just need a whole day by the pool! I had some very good Kalua pork nachos delivered to my bed for lunch, soaked up the sun, swam, read... heaven!</div><div><br /></div><div>I did go for a short afternoon walk along Waikoloa Beach to ʻAnaehoʻomalu Beach... to the Lava Lava Beach Club for a mai tai!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52889804033_44fbfd800e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52889804033_44fbfd800e_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />And then later there was the most incredible sunset! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52889361751_d8a8a3f2c0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="532" data-original-width="800" height="426" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52889361751_d8a8a3f2c0_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>I had planned to go out for dinner that night, but I was just feeling so relaxed hanging at the resort so I decided to have dinner at their restaurant as it was "Taco Tuesday". Unfortunately when I arrived I was told there was a shortage or something and there would be no tacos that Tuesday. Bummer, but I had some fine catch of the day and a wedge salad.</div><div><br /></div><div>The next morning I woke up to a text from Alaska Air letting me know I'd been upgraded to First Class for the flight home! What an absolute cherry on the top of such a great trip!</div><div><br /></div><div>My flight wasn't until late afternoon, and as I'm Gold with Marriott I had a 2pm checkout, so I had a very indulgent breakfast at the resort, took a few more laps in the pool, worked on the tan a bit more, and had one last poke bowl before heading to the airport for the 6-hour flight home.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52888790042_f7731573b1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52888790042_f7731573b1_b.jpg" width="600" /></a></div>Aloha until next time Hawai'i! <div><br /></div><div>All Big Island photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAJdWa" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>Other posts from this trip:</div><div><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2024/02/pre-disaster-maui.html" target="_blank">Pre-Disaster Maui</a><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2024/03/volcano-lessons-on-hawaii.html" target="_blank">Volcano Lessons on Hawai'i</a><br /><div><br /></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-22034582067521629252024-03-02T15:32:00.000-08:002024-03-03T13:18:08.405-08:00Volcano Lessons on Hawai'i<p>Trip date: May 2023</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884817148_2cefd6a147_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884817148_2cefd6a147_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>After 5 nights on <a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2024/02/pre-disaster-maui.html" target="_blank">Maui</a>, I took a short Hawaiian Airlines flight to Kona on the Big Island. In 2018 my plans to hike around the Kīlauea volcano <a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2019/02/big-island-bliss.html" target="_blank">were thwarted</a> by the volcano actually erupting, so I was on a mission to finally do all things I had planned 5 years prior!</p><p>I had booked another convertible, thru Thrifty this time, and stood in line for over an hour waiting to pick it up. Not sure if that is normal or if they were just very short staffed, but it screwed up my plans for a late lunch at the Honaunau Poke Shop before my 2+ hour drive.</p><p>I stopped at a gas station for some snacks and drove south on Highway 11, (also known as Māmalahoa Highway or the Hawaiʻi Belt Road) top down, breeze blowing through my hair. Then it started to dump rain like only the Hawaiian Islands can do! Luckily it cleared up by the time I was at the very south tip of the island, which is also the most southern part of the United States. I stopped at mile marker 75 to take a look at the massive ancient lava fields from the eruption of Mauna Loa in 1907. <a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884526164_0b10ce6e13_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="800" height="408" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884526164_0b10ce6e13_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>Mauna Loa is one of the five volcanoes that form the Big Island and is also the largest active volcano on earth. She's sent lava flows across the road in this area in 1868, 1887, 1919, 1926, and 1950 also!</p><p>Up to this point, and after, the southern part of the island is so green and lush! The towns here are tiny, I drove through each in the blink of an eye. </p><p>My next stop was at Punalu'u Black Sand Beach where there is usually a very high chance of seeing the resident <i>honus </i>swimming close to the shore. I didn't see any turtles though as it was crazy windy when I stopped! It is beautiful though!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883781932_9a58435728_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883781932_9a58435728_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>30 minutes from here I reached <a href="https://hawaiivolcanohouse.com/" target="_blank">Volcano House</a>, the only hotel inside of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, where I'd be staying for 2 nights.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882722750_3f0ab9fee8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882722750_3f0ab9fee8_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>I had booked a room with a view of Kīlauea's Halemaumau crater and was so excited to see the steam rising from it right from my bed! The hotel is rustic but cute; there are 2 gift shops, 2 restaurants, and absolutely amazing views of the crater. The Visitor's Center is just across the street, so if you are there you can walk over and take a look, you don't have to be a guest to come explore the hotel and its views.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882024412_e8a422e597_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="502" data-original-width="800" height="402" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882024412_e8a422e597_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>That first night I ate at The Rim, the nicer of the two restaurants. My drinks and dinner were ok and as these are the only restaurants inside of the park, the prices were very inflated. But I was happy to take my wine to my room after dinner, just steps away vs driving home.</p><p>I only had 1 ½ days in the park and I had a lot I wanted to see and do, so the next morning I was out of the hotel at 8am and off to hike the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/kilauea-iki-trail-from-kilauea-iki-overlook.htm" target="_blank">Kīlauea Iki trail</a>. I parked at the trailhead lot across from the Thurston Lava Tube and followed the trail counterclockwise, starting through a lovely rainforest with views of the crater floor below. Kīlauea's much larger crater can be seen in the distance. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882588881_e4485bccf5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882588881_e4485bccf5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>This pit crater last erupted in 1959 and I could clearly see the trail on the crater floor that cuts straight across what was once a lake of molten lava! It was a little over a mile to the far end of the rim, then there was a 400 foot descent to the floor. The trail was very steep in parts; I followed the dirt path, stairs, and lots of volcanic rocks.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882005222_c0ecb9e0d8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882005222_c0ecb9e0d8_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Now I had to get across the floor to the other side! It's very hard to make out the trail but I knew to follow the <i>ahu</i> (stone cairns) and stone markers. Even knowing that, they were hard to make out sometimes! Everything is varying shades of black with the random overachieving plant trying to break through. And the crust is very uneven with cracks that look like they can swallow you whole!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882946715_9f42f1bd0e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882946715_9f42f1bd0e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>It was truly one of the coolest hikes I've done! It was like being on the moon, but with parts of it steaming! Once I got to the other side I still had to climb up another 400 feet to where my car was parked. The entire hike took me about 2 hours and was just over 3 ½ miles. I highly recommend this trail if you are in the area, it's like nothing else!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881988167_ce9ed83535_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881988167_ce9ed83535_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>When I got back up to the parking lot, I crossed the road and entered the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/places/nahuku.htm" target="_blank">Thurston Lava Tube</a>. Tubes like this are all over the islands, and once were the highway to 2000 degrees F molten lava!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881984617_4f0d9e8d08_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881984617_4f0d9e8d08_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>It's dark and creepy and totally cool!! Maybe not for people with claustrophobia however. </p><p>I hadn't been able to get a quick breakfast at the hotel before I left so I was very ready for lunch by this time. I drove to the <a href="https://www.kilauealodge.com/" target="_blank">Kilauea Lodge</a> and had a really good brunch of their Volcano Loco (take on a Loco Moco) which came with house make pumpkin bread and coffee. It was a super cute dining room, with a big stone fireplace and really nice service. </p><p>Then I was back in the convertible and on the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/ccr_tour.htm" target="_blank">Chain of Craters Road</a>. It's a 36-mile round trip drive down to the Pacific Ocean and back. There are no services on the road so it's important to have plenty of gas, snacks, and water!</p><p>The craters along the road were formed after magma below the earth receded (rather than by the eruption of a volcano) and the surface collapsed. One of the craters, Ko'oko'olau, hasn't seen lava in over 200 years and is now filled with greenery, while the others are quite barren.</p><p>Past the craters the road cuts through old lava flows all the way to the sea. It's pretty incredible to see the massive flows all around and imagine how it was when it was flowing! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882823525_5115889258_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882823525_5115889258_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The elevation goes from 4000 feet to sea level, and the road is very steep and twisty in sections. The views are just incredible! At mile marker 15.9 I came to my short hiking destination- the Pu'u Loa Petroglyph Field. There is parking on either side of the road and then it's just a short 3/4 of a mile walk out to the ancient stone carvings.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881835007_bb6dd5e233_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881835007_bb6dd5e233_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>The Big Island has the most petroglyphs of the chain, and this particular field was just full of them. There's a boardwalk built around the field to keep people from destroying the artifacts. I find them fascinating!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882860753_3b97500e3d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882860753_3b97500e3d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Back on the road it was just 3 more miles to the sea. There wasn't any active lava when I visited but in years past you could come and watch the flow enter the ocean! That would be amazing! But the views of the Holei Sea Arch were still impressive, as is the force of the waves that crash against them. Sea arches like this are formed when lava is continuously pounded by the surf until it is undercut in the shape of an arch.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882777485_27a174cd26_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882777485_27a174cd26_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Time to turn the car around and head back to the hotel! Driving straight at the hills with clear sight of the lava flows was incredible!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882774100_d86af9ddaf_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882774100_d86af9ddaf_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>It's just such an amazing area to explore! I spent about 3 hours on this road, taking time to stop to read about the various craters, lookouts, etc. Coupled with my morning hike, it was a long day and I was exhausted when I returned to Volcano House. Luckily they greeted me at the front desk with a complimentary mimosa which I enjoyed while I got cleaned up and ready for a casual dinner in the other restaurant Uncle George’s Lounge.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882350741_95de29df1a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52882350741_95de29df1a_b.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>The next morning I was up early again as I still had a few more things I wanted to see before I left Volcanoes National Park. It's a very short walk from the hotel over to the Sulfur Banks to see the fumes escaping from the deep cracks in the earth produced by the magma pocket below. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884447036_37213cd7da_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884447036_37213cd7da_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Continuing my way on the 1+ mile trail, I then came upon the Steam Vents. There are actually many of them throughout the walk and on the banks of the cauldron. These are shallower cracks with rocks underneath that are being heated by magma. When rainwater hits the hot rocks it produces all this steam. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884953920_3fa66866fb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884953920_3fa66866fb_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Most of the steam vents are clearly marked but there have been instances of people <a href="https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1996-07-18-me-25503-story.html" target="_blank">falling into them</a> so it's important to stay on the trails around here!</div><div><br /></div><div>Throughout this area I saw so many ʻōhiʻa trees blooming! This is the Hawaiian state tree and is generally one of the first plants to grow through old lava. They are also very prone to disease and have been dying off in past years. Don't touch the ʻōhiʻa!<br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881693744_82bf555949_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881693744_82bf555949_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>After checking out of Volcano House, I got my car, and drove over to the Kīlauea Overlook for some last views of the steaming crater. This is Hawaii's youngest and most active volcano and it doesn't seem like Goddess Pele is anywhere near playing with it!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884599176_33a05940d2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884599176_33a05940d2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I took a short walk from here to Uekahuna, which is actually the chosen site that Native Hawaiians honor Pele. There are fantastic views of Mauna Loa, Kīlauea, and the old Jaggar Museum and Observatory. This had been on my list of places to visit in 2018 but unfortunately it sustained considerable damage during that eruption and is now being razed. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884772379_f9c73ecbce_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="467" data-original-width="800" height="374" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884772379_f9c73ecbce_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>On my drive out of the park I decided to do one more short hike to Pu‘u Pua‘i. The parking lot is on the opposite side of Kīlauea Iki and it's just a mile out and back to see this odd mound of cinders that was formed during the eruption in 1959. The cinders were the result of 1,900 foot high lava fountains, cooling and falling back to earth, but today it just looks like a very barren hill.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884772714_c025fa45d7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884772714_c025fa45d7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>And with that I said goodbye to this amazing national park and started my drive to the other side of the island!</p><p>All Big Island photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAJdWa" target="_blank">here</a>.</p><div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:<a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2024/03/48-hours-in-waikoloa.html"><br /></a><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/7569226984641278838/3195757379523592288#">Pre-Disaster Maui<br /></a></span></span></div></div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2024/03/48-hours-in-waikoloa.html" style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Waikoloa</a></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-16886598221152124982024-02-19T13:05:00.000-08:002024-03-03T13:17:39.975-08:00Pre-Disaster Maui <p>Trip date: May 2023</p><p>Just 3 months after I returned from my latest trip to Maui, Lahaina (and surrounding areas) burned to the ground. It was shocking to realize that some of the places I had just discovered might be gone forever. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52865503194_c9585e6760_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="513" data-original-width="800" height="410" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52865503194_c9585e6760_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I had taken advantage of (another!) 5-night Westin/Marriott timeshare presentation deal at the <a href="https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/oggws-the-westin-kaanapali-ocean-resort-villas/overview/" target="_blank">Ka'anapali Ocean Resort</a>. This was my 4th time at the resort and I was looking forward to working from Maui for the week. I really love this beautiful property; the beach is fab, the weather would be warm and sunny, and they gave me a great discount on a rental car so I upgraded to a convertible!</p><p>I booked my flight on Alaska in Premium Class and a few weeks before my flight TripIt Pro alerted me to a drop in the fare. I called Alaska and saved $230! That more than paid for my $49 annual subscription!</p><p>It's a beautiful 45 minute drive from the airport, and since I knew that my room at the resort was a 1 bedroom with living room and kitchen, I made a stop at the nearby Foodland for groceries. Foodland has some of the best poke around! As well as musubi, local chips, ready made salads, etc. I love shopping here and I really like having some of my own stuff in my fridge.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52865340501_a41a106825_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52865340501_a41a106825_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>When I pulled up to the resort the valet directed me to the other tower to the north of where I have always stayed in the past. To me, the North Tower was not near as nice as the South Tower and when I walked into my room I was super disappointed. It was an ADA room so the closet wasn't high enough to hang my clothes and the bathroom was super dumpy. The room was also as far from the beach as you could get and I could hear road traffic from my lanai. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52865784548_9e34d6fa8b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52865784548_9e34d6fa8b_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I spoke to a few different managers and finally got them to agree to move me the next day. I celebrated down by the central firepit with a double HH mai tai and some live music. It had been a long day so I decided to just have a couple of fish tacos at the hotel's outdoor casual restaurant (along with a few more mai tais!)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52864773667_0a7d9f49bc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52864773667_0a7d9f49bc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The next day I was moved to a MUCH nicer room, still in the north tower, but closer to the pool and the lobby. All week I pretty much kept to the same schedule; work on the lanai in the mornings and then a walk along the ocean on the boardwalk trail.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883834847_08e387368f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883834847_08e387368f_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>In the afternoon I'd rent a Casabella (a two-seater lounger with a hood you can raise or lower) at the pool (½ price after 12:30), swim, lunch and HH on the resort grounds and then have dinner offsite. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884866408_0975141098_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884866408_0975141098_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>One night I took the hotel shuttle to The Cannery mall and then walked across the road to the new location of <a href="https://www.starnoodle.com/home-star-noodle-maui-lahaina-hawaii-restaurant" target="_blank">Star Noodle</a>. Always a favorite, but now with an oceanside location on Front Street. I had delicious garlic noodles, smashed cucumber salad, and a couple of cocktails. </p><p>At this time, it's unclear if the restaurant will be able to reopen. It's so sad to know that the buildings here were completely burned. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52867392132_04fb4706b8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52867392132_04fb4706b8_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>Another night I walked down the boardwalk to Duke's for dinner at the bar. It's touristy and overpriced but I love having a Duke's mai tai along with some fresh catch baked with butter and herbs. And it is so close to the Westin!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52869533838_1661fb2511_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52869533838_1661fb2511_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Another evening I took an Uber to Papa'aina Restaurant in the Pioneer Inn in Lahaina. I had reservations just after sunset so I got there a bit early to take in the scenery.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884398261_e50dc15751_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884398261_e50dc15751_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Unfortunately when I went to enter the restaurant, it was closed. No note, no explanation. I double checked my email confirmation and I had the right day and time. It was frustrating! </p><p>This historic hotel's building was completely destroyed in the fires, it had been in operation since 1901 and was the oldest hotel on the island. There are no plans for rebuilding or reopening which is such a loss for Lahaina. </p><p>I ended up calling another Uber and going to <a href="https://www.honumaui.com/" target="_blank">Honu</a> which some hotel guests had told me about earlier in the week. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883808687_950613ce07_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52883808687_950613ce07_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Since I didn't have a reservation I ate at the bar where there seemed to be quite a few regulars also. I had a fantastic take on poke and also some wonderful grilled octopus. </p><p>Honu is hoping to reopen summer 2024, if you are there and they are open, I highly recommend eating here!</p><p>And of course I had to attend a timeshare presentation, since that was the reason for the great deal. It was only 90 minutes, and I wouldn't say it was a hard-sell, but the salesperson was very rude when I was honest and said I wasn't going to be buying. And even though they offered me ANOTHER deal to pre purchase, based on the horrible first room I was given I declined. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884748435_d4c24cb784_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52884748435_d4c24cb784_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />Maui is still rebuilding after the massive destruction the fires caused. Here's hoping that these places, and all the others along the quaint streets of Lahaina, are able to rebuild, rehire, and re-welcome their customers soon. <div><br /></div><div>Sending much love to the beautiful island.<br /><p></p><p>All Maui photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjADE8S" target="_blank">here</a>.</p><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:<span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/7569226984641278838/3195757379523592288#"><br /></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/7569226984641278838/3195757379523592288#">Volcano Lessons on Hawai'i</a></span></span></div></div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2024/03/48-hours-in-waikoloa.html" style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Waikoloa</a></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-28328203843465425662024-01-31T15:27:00.000-08:002024-01-31T15:27:47.277-08:00Saranac Lake, New York Winter Fun<p>Trip date: February 2023 </p><p>After a couple of days in <a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2024/01/24-hours-in-saratoga-springs-new-york.html" target="_blank">Saratoga Springs</a>, I hitched a ride with my friend John to Saranac Lake, which is where his company <a href="https://www.instagram.com/rascalandthorn?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==" target="_blank">Rascal + Thorn</a> would be putting on the dinner that I came to the area for. It was a gorgeous, snowy, 2-hour drive through the Adirondack Mountains. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670208811_bd417070b1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="800" height="434" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670208811_bd417070b1_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We arrived at the <a href="https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/slksnqq-hotel-saranac/?SEO_id=GMB-AMER-QQ-SLKSNQQ&y_source=1_ODMyMDI4NS03MTUtbG9jYXRpb24ud2Vic2l0ZQ%3D%3D" target="_blank">Hotel Saranac</a> and upon check-in they told me they had upgraded me to a bigger corner room. I would be working for the next couple of days so it was nice to have a proper desk and a great view of the town. And since the hotel is in the Hilton portfolio my status got me $15 credit per day to use how I liked. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670645900_542dec7436_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670645900_542dec7436_b.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><p>The hotel has a very good all-day restaurant so some of the event group met there for lunch. Afterwards John took me on a drive around the area and to Lake Placid. What a gorgeous area, especially for snow sports enthusiasts! And I got to see the famous hockey rink where the Miracle on Ice happened in 1980!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670707108_c0fd0e9713_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="710" data-original-width="800" height="568" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670707108_c0fd0e9713_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Back in Saranac we walked down to the frozen lake to check out the construction of the Ice Palace. Each February, since 1897, Saranac Lake puts on a big Winter Carnival. It's one of the oldest in the country and there are lots of activities like parades, concerts, curling, dances, etc but the <i>pièce de résistance</i> is the Ice Palace that volunteers construct using blocks harvested from the lake. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670496349_4526915625_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670496349_4526915625_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>They even had a small museum set up with photos from prior years. Some of the palaces were massive! I love small town stuff like this so I thought it all was very cool! </p><p>That evening John invited everyone out to dinner at Red Fox which is a super old-school American Italian restaurant. Big martinis, shrimp cocktail, prime rib, veal parmigiana, and a lot of fun! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52678404523_fb36b13fe7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52678404523_fb36b13fe7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Back at the hotel a few of us stopped into the Great Hall, the hotel's cocktail bar, where we found some really great prices on whiskey pours.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669702527_5d68cfd1d0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669702527_5d68cfd1d0_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Besides its historical Winter Carnival, Saranac Lake is also known for it incredibly cold winter temperatures. In fact, it is regularly the coldest place in the Continental US. And when I woke up on Friday morning, that is exactly what was happening! It was -19F and -43 with wind chill. Holy shit!</p><p>I bundled up and braved the cold to make my way to Origins Coffee for a breakfast biscuit and latte. I was pretty much the only person outside! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670487614_da5dfa6341_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670487614_da5dfa6341_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>My shopping trip around town got cut short after about 10 minutes of being outside as it was truly the coldest cold I had ever felt (and I've been north of the Arctic Circle IN WINTER!). I headed back to my cozy room and worked until it was a respectable time for happy hour. A hot toddy was absolutely needed that evening!</p><p>On the advise of John, I had dinner one evening at the <a href="https://www.thefiddleheadbistro.com/dinner/" target="_blank">Fiddlehead Bistro</a>, which luckily was just a couple of blocks away. I sat up at the bar and had a great meal including some lovely local cheeses at the end. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670189946_ed654192f3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670189946_ed654192f3_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>It was -23F when I walked home! Actual temp, not with wind chill!</p><p>I took advantage of the hotel's spa the next morning and booked in for a relaxing massage and some time in front of their fireplace with hot tea. After warming up, I braved the cold again and walked down to the lake to see how the Ice Palace was coming along.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670590775_c0be71632b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670590775_c0be71632b_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Unfortunately, even though it was currently crazy cold, the lake hadn't frozen early enough to harvest the amount of blocks needed for a large Palace, so the structure was pretty small. But still very cool!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670657463_4f71d94156_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670657463_4f71d94156_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Besides the Winter Carnival, Saranac Lake is also known as being the first place in America to open a tuberculosis sanatorium. Edward Trudeau opened the Saranac Laboratory in 1884, it's now a museum right in the center of town and right next to his old house.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670437599_fd3e790831_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670437599_fd3e790831_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Until 1946, when an antibiotic cure was found, the Saranac Lake Laboratory was the leader in research and administering treatment of fresh air and complete bed rest- the only known way to cure tuberculosis- to patients who came from all over. Dr. Trudeau treated many important people, including Robert Louis Stevenson. </p><p>Around town you can still see homes with large porches called "cure porches", this is where people would sit and take in fresh air to stay healthy or recover from TB. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669649572_8750821939_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669649572_8750821939_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>It's a small and very interesting museum if you get a chance to go. And during the Winter Carnival there is a "pay-what-you-want" admission. Also the Trudeau name may be familiar to you as his grandson Garry Trudeau is the cartoonist and creator of Doonesbury.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670434589_3bc3a3ceeb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670434589_3bc3a3ceeb_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Back at the hotel, I got ready for the reason for the trip; The Rascal + Thorn dinner! </p><p>The evening started with passed canapes of foie gras mousse in pani puri cups, caviar on sourdough crackers, and spiced lamb skewers. They were all absolutely fantastic! Hosts, <span style="font-family: times;">John and Charles introduced the dinner team of<span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> </span><span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/airick72/" style="background-color: white; color: #1177cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Chef Erik Anderson</a> <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">, </span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/lempka_gram/" style="background-color: white; color: #1177cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Chef Alex Lempka</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> (from Hamlet & Ghost), and </span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/willtwyatt/" style="background-color: white; color: #1177cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Will Wyatt</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> (owner of Mister Paradise and Pretty Ricky bars in NYC).</span></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670643648_ef1219aa29_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670643648_ef1219aa29_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>We all found our way to our seats where a lovely cocktail awaited the first course. We would have 4 courses and dessert, each one paired with a cocktail made by Will.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670143376_91e7bf4622_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670143376_91e7bf4622_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The entire evening was just fantastic! There was a soft scrambled maple egg in its shell, some stunning raw steelhead trout with egg yolk and trout roe, roasted squab with shiso and caviar, perfectly cooked Mack Brook beef with potato cake, and burnt sugar and rosemary pudding for dessert. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669161686_cd13de2809_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669161686_cd13de2809_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>These folks really out did themselves! And the Winter Carnival had a big fireworks display that we all got to watch from the warm dining room during the dinner!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52672076183_38ff1c48b8_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52672076183_38ff1c48b8_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>The next morning I said goodbye to everyone and took a "local taxi" to Adirondack Airport. That means I got some names of locals with trucks from the hotel concierge and paid one to drive me. Small towns are very funny!</p><p>At the Cape Air check-in counter I had to provide my weight, as well as they weighed my bag and carry on. Turns out I was flying on a TINY 8 person prop plane to JFK! For those of you who don't know me personally, I'm actually an extremely nervous flyer so this sounded terrifying!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671742004_811f5c9460_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671742004_811f5c9460_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Add to that the airport couldn't serve alcohol until 10am (because it was Sunday), and my flight left at 10:30. I basically shotgunned a mimosa at 10:03am! </p><p>I still don't really know how all that luggage fit; they were putting things in the nose, the wings, etc! We weren't allowed to have anything in the cabin except for what you could hold in your hand (like a book or your phone). </p><p>We were seated so that the weight distribution was even and one couple was very upset that they couldn't sit next to each other. I mean we are in a minivan with wings and he was right behind her! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671416011_14792ae948_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671416011_14792ae948_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Luckily the weather was good so the 2 hour flight was pretty calm. It was crazy flying that low over the Adirondacks and into JFK though! I was very tense the entire time and was super happy when we landed!</p><p>Since I had a 4 hour layover in JFK, I went to spend some time in the <a href="https://www.twahotel.com/" target="_blank">TWA Hotel</a> where for $25 you can lounge in their rooftop pool which is heated to 95F and overlooks the runway!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670835277_55142a02a5_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670835277_55142a02a5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>I had planned this, so I had my suit in my carry-on and a staff person locked my suitcase up in a closet for me. I had to change in the restaurant bathroom which wasn't great though. I kind of expected them to have a little locker room or similar. But it was super relaxing to take a soak and watch the planes. </p><p>The rooftop restaurant is like a ski chalet in the winter so I stopped in after for some lunch, but it was really basic food and wine. All served on disposable and very overpriced. Not sure if it is always like this or if this was a holdover from Covid. The space is super cute though.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671774900_ed291a1a61_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671774900_ed291a1a61_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>And walking back out through the hotel to the main concourse was super fun with all the old TWA memorabilia, 70-style bar, and retail shops. There is even an old TWA plane that is now a cocktail bar but it wasn't open yet when I needed to leave.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670804827_527d5a3fa8_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670804827_527d5a3fa8_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>I made my way to my terminal and checked out the newly opened Alaska Air Lounge real quick before boarding my flight from JFK to Seattle. I had used points for a First Class, always nice on a 6 ½ flight! This one even served little cans of Straightaway cocktails and containers of Salt & Straw ice cream for dessert! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671218726_0c67971401_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671218726_0c67971401_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>It had been such a great trip! So fun seeing friends and great meeting all the chefs. Upstate New York is truly gorgeous... AND COLD!</p><p>All Saranac Lake photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjArf9n" target="_blank">here</a>. </p><p>Previous post from this trip: <a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2024/01/24-hours-in-saratoga-springs-new-york.html" target="_blank">24 Hours in Saratoga Springs</a></p>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-69260158436040758902024-01-26T13:03:00.000-08:002024-01-26T13:23:55.561-08:0024 Hours in Saratoga Springs, New York<p>Trip date: January 2023</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671946110_2b829dabb3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671946110_2b829dabb3_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>My friend John lives in Saratoga Springs, and I had never been there. I mean, that is enough for me to buy a plane ticket! But when I saw that John and his business partner Charles were putting on a dinner in the area with <a href="https://www.instagram.com/airick72?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==" target="_blank">Chef Erik Anderson</a> (currently at Barndiva in the Napa area) I knew it would be a great time to visit.</p><p>John and Charles run <a href="https://www.rascalandthorn.com/" target="_blank">Rascal + Thorn</a>, a company that specializes in culinary travel. I went on a <a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2017/03/northern-spain-food-wine-tour.html" target="_blank">Northern Spain food & wine tour</a> with John years ago and it was awesome! </p><p>I knew of Anderson from when he was chef at Nashville's Catbird Seat, but when I had the opportunity to eat there Anderson had just left days before! This seemed like a perfect opportunity to finally visit my friend and eat some delicious food! When John found out I was interested in attending the dinner he graciously invited me to come to Saratoga Springs first. </p><p>I booked a United flight in first class from Seattle to Albany, NY which connected through Chicago. It was a quick layover but I made sure to grab some popcorn from my fave Garrett's while walking to my gate. And thank God I had that popcorn as my next flight served only pretzels during dinner time! The flight attendant kindly snagged me a tapas box from the paid cart. </p><p>January in Upstate New York is COLD! And snowy!! I called an Uber at the Albany airport and a huge pickup truck showed up! It was a 30 minute ride to the Holiday Inn in Saratoga Springs where I was upgraded to a bigger room and given free daily breakfast- so posh! haha! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52663098183_91ef23d027_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52663098183_91ef23d027_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>The hotel offered a free shuttle within a 5 mile radius so I took it to <a href="https://www.hamletandghost.com/" target="_blank">Hamlet & Ghost</a>, as it was the only place in town still open at 10pm. But it turned out to be a great choice, as I ran into John and Erik who were just finishing dinner. </p><p>I had a couple of drinks in their very pretty bar before heading back to the hotel. The kitchen was closed for the night, but the menu looked fantastic. I'd definitely book here if I was back in the area.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52662102937_95e57b24b4_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52662102937_95e57b24b4_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>The next morning, after my free breakfast, I had the hotel shuttle take me to the <a href="https://www.gideonputnam.com/roosevelt-baths-and-spa" target="_blank">Roosevelt Baths & Spa</a>. <div>The city is known for its naturally carbonated mineral waters that flow from 20 different springs around town. Each spring has its own makeup of vital minerals and carbon dioxide gas and are known to have numerous healing properties. The water from each spring also has very different tastes!</div><div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52672058208_989a129ba9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52672058208_989a129ba9_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>There use to be a number of baths in the area where people could "take the cure" but The Roosevelt Baths are the last remaining historical baths in the town now. Opened in 1935 as a health center, people would usually come for a 3-week stay that included daily baths in the bubbly waters, diet, exercise, and rest. </div><div><br /></div><div>I would just be there for the morning and had an appointment for a 20 minute soak followed by a 50 minute massage. While the waiting lounge was very comfy and modern, the treatment rooms are very clinical and old school. The tub had been filled for me, and it was explained that the color was normal and also that the water was very bubbly and I would probably float, which I did!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671850534_1237ae7e10_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671850534_1237ae7e10_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Unlike many springs on the west coast, the water here isn't coming from hot springs. The mineral water is cold from underground springs, then the spa mixes it with warm fresh water to a comfortable temperature. It was very relaxing and quite an experience feeling all the bubbles on my skin! My massage was also great and super relaxing. And the residue from the water does not look appetizing but it does taste pretty good!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671992505_1fa30afa20_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671992505_1fa30afa20_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>The shuttle picked me back up and I had them drop me off at <a href="https://www.firstfillspirits.com/" target="_blank">First Fill Spirits </a>which is owned by John's biz partner Charles. This is the whiskey shop that every city dreams of having! Charles has put together a really thoughtful collection from around the world and was nice enough to give me a few tastes!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671542191_6d617a0585_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671542191_6d617a0585_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Before heading back to my hotel, I had a quick lunch at the historic Adelphi Hotel, which is right on the main drag. Saratoga is a very cute town, founded in 1776, it still has a lot of Victorian and Renaissance Revival architecture.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671022667_30cc24cf98_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671022667_30cc24cf98_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>I walked through Congress Park which has both a Civil War Memorial, and a World War Pavillion. The park was really pretty, especially in the sunny winter weather. There are also 2 active springs here, Congress Spring and Deer Spring.You'll see Columbia Spring also, but that has dried up and is just the city's normal water now.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52672013183_8e391a27f2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52672013183_8e391a27f2_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><p>That evening John and his wife Kitty had invited <a href="https://www.instagram.com/airick72/" target="_blank">Chef Erik</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lempka_gram/" target="_blank">Chef Alex Lempka</a> (from Hamlet & Ghost), and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/willtwyatt/" target="_blank">Will Wyatt</a> (owner of Mister Paradise and Pretty Ricky bars in NYC), who would be working the event. Their significant others joined, as well as the couple who own <a href="https://mackbrookfarm.com/" target="_blank">Mack Brook Farm</a> (local beef farmers). I was thrilled to be included in such a fun and delicious night!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671929140_d72b9f26ea_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671929140_d72b9f26ea_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Chef Erik and John cooked up a storm! There was lobster and beef and duck! There was a magnum of 1995 Beaucastel and a gorgeous Kistler Pinot Noir. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671929755_79303f33cd_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671929755_79303f33cd_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Charles brought a bottle of Akashi Whisky for us all to taste and Kitty made individual crostatas. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670695695_c097d73a6c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670695695_c097d73a6c_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>And for cheese, I had sent a huge can of Cougar Gold White Cheddar. IYKYK!! It was a hit! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670547259_278021a221_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670547259_278021a221_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>I absolutely loved getting a chance to see where my friend and his family live, and also meet these amazing folks in the restaurant/bar industry. </p><p>I was really looking forward to heading to Saranac Lake the next day!</p><p>All Saratoga Springs photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjArdL8" target="_blank">here</a>.</p></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-14401677968276670052023-12-16T19:02:00.000-08:002023-12-16T19:18:40.646-08:0048 Hours in Dubai, UAE<p>Trip date: January 2023</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619815503_b09acc89c0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="800" height="288" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619815503_b09acc89c0_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I hadn't been to Dubai or the UAE before, so that is reason enough for me to take a trip, but really I wanted to fly in Emirates Business Class on their direct Dubai to Seattle flight. </p><p>I transferred some points to Aeroplan and booked an economy flight from Cairo to Dubai via Air Canada on Egyptair (did you know that you could do that? I just recently learned how!)</p><p>It was a quick 3 1/2 hour flight and passport control in Dubai was easy and fast. I was in a taxi and at the <a href="https://www.raffles.com/dubai/?goto=fiche_hotel&code_hotel=A5D8&merchantid=seo-maps-AE-A5D8&sourceid=aw-cen&utm_medium=seo+maps&utm_source=google+Maps&utm_campaign=seo+maps&y_source=1_MTIzNjEzNjUtNzE1LWxvY2F0aW9uLndlYnNpdGU%3D" target="_blank">Raffles Hotel</a> 10 minutes after leaving the airport. I had booked the hotel thru my Amex Fine Hotels + Resorts portal which gave me a $200 card credit along with free breakfast and $100 resort credit. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619771100_60fd6ca104_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619771100_60fd6ca104_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>My room wasn't quite ready when I arrived, so they sat me in the bar with a comped glass of wine and some snacks which was nice. When I was taken up to my room, the valet let me know that they had upgraded me to a room with a gorgeous skyline view! It was huge with a balcony, living room, walk-in closet, massive bathroom, and a butler!!!! </p><p>That evening I set out to have drinks at a couple of cocktail bars that are currently on The 50 Best list. First up was <a href="https://www.theworlds50best.com/bars/the-list/bulgari-bar.html" target="_blank">Bulgari Bar</a> in the hotel by the same name. This is on Jumeirah Bay Island, so it's a bit of a drive from where I was, but the drinks and the gorgeous bar were worth the taxi. Pro tip: taxis in Dubai are cheaper than Uber and easily hailed by hotels. But if you are approached by a "taxi" make sure you agree on the price first as they could actually be a private car and charge you double!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619793178_a9de99ee38_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619793178_a9de99ee38_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The staff at Bulgari are so great and all my cocktails were delicious. I sat inside the bar for a bit and then noticed their awesome balcony overlooking the water, so moved there for a snack and another drink. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619303286_8928522cdb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="800" height="438" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619303286_8928522cdb_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>My next stop was <a href="https://www.theworlds50best.com/bars/the-list/mimi-kakushi.html" target="_blank">Mimi Kakushi</a> at the Four Seasons Resort, also on Jumeirah. The bar here is quite small, as the space is primarily a restaurant, but it's very cute and the bartender was great. They are known for their Botanist martini which is frozen inside a block of ice and is picked out.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617766056_1d5a1aef7d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617766056_1d5a1aef7d_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Fun, and a great martini, but $50 to watch him hack thru to the bottle and pour it in my glass wasn't exactly worth it to me. I enjoyed my one drink and tabbed out.</div><div><br /></div><div>I had my driver drop me off near Burj Khalifa Park and made my way to the lake where the Dubai Fountain performs every 30 minutes until 11pm. It was super easy to get a great spot on the boardwalk and while waiting for the show the Burj Khalifa (the world's tallest building at 2717 feet tall) has an lightshow going on which was so gorgeous!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pk7ZURLV3us" width="320" youtube-src-id="pk7ZURLV3us"></iframe></div><br /><div>Then the fountains started, choreographed to music of course. If you've seen the fountains at Bellagio in Las Vegas, these are very similar, but because this is Dubai everything is even more fancy and spectacular. I loved it!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ezg4F0GAeZ0" width="320" youtube-src-id="Ezg4F0GAeZ0"></iframe></div><br /><div>When I got back to the hotel, I stopped by the bar to grab a glass of wine to take to my room but was told that it is illegal to walk through the hotel with alcohol so they had to have room service bring it up to me. UAE is a Muslim country, so technically a dry, but they also grant special licenses to hotels and bars (most are a part of a hotel) because they want all the international tourism. It's interesting for sure!</div><div><br /></div><div>My butler had turned down my room and turned on the Moroccan lights and it was just a stunning place to enjoy my wine when it arrived! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618180295_9267c19fae_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618180295_9267c19fae_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The next morning I headed to the breakfast room and was completely blown away by the massive buffets. Pretty much anything you could want was available! There were tables laden with middle eastern options, Italian, dim sum, pastries, carving stations, egg stations, salad bar, pancakes & waffles with so many toppings including honey on the comb. It was really an impressive set up!</div><div><br /></div><div>I ate and then took an Uber to the Dubai Mall. Driving through town is like being on an architecture tour! There are so many fascinating buildings to look at!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618003849_807026f313_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618003849_807026f313_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>I arrived at the Fashion Avenue entrance and spent a lot of time finding my way through to the entrance for the Top of the Tower. I was very excited to be going up in the Burj Khalifa and I had bought a <a href="https://tickets.atthetop.ae/atthetop/en-us" target="_blank">SKY ticket</a> in advance. The ticket wasn't cheap, I spent about $150, but I didn't have to queue up at all and instead was shown into a lounge where I could sit with the others before being escorted through a series of back hallways and executive elevators.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618217148_c419bc2503_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618217148_c419bc2503_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>This was pretty cool as we also were walked past multiple very long queues of ticket holders and allowed to board elevators before them. Different elevators go to different floors; you have to travel past the floors of the Armani Hotel, the Residences, corporate offices, and the regular restaurant. It takes a while just to get to floor 125 which is where the "regular" ticket holders start. </div><div><br /></div><div>My VIP group started on the 148th floor and were welcomed into a private observation room with coffee, juice, dates (which UAE are known for), and of course some truly incredible views from 1820 feet up!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617726506_19cb114938_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617726506_19cb114938_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The observation space is almost a full 360 of windows, so you can walk around for a complete view, and there is also an area that you can walk outside! It's VERY windy up that high and also pretty exhilarating!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617700716_6752a46efe_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617700716_6752a46efe_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>There's no time limit on your stay at 148, when you are ready you are able to take the elevator down to floor 125. At 1496 feet you are still very high up but being a tad closer to the other buildings makes the view a bit better (at least on this day which was hazy with sand from the desert!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617177982_d8263cdd1e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617177982_d8263cdd1e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>However, there are A LOT of people on this floor! There's also some souvenir stands, and this graphic which looks like the floor is clear glass and then it makes breaking sounds as you walk across it! Very funny!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617958169_8f71b9ae0c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617958169_8f71b9ae0c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>You can walk down a flight to floor 124 which is another outdoor terrace, this one is full of selfie takers!</div><div><br /></div><div>There was a very long queue for the elevator to get down but my VIP ticket gave me access to a private line and just 3 of us were ushered into the elevator. Within 60 seconds we were all the way back down!! So fast! As you exit through a hallway there are panels which tell all about the construction of the tower. It's all super interesting!</div><div><br /></div><div>But wait... there's more!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617679126_3ffca2178a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617679126_3ffca2178a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>I was still in the Dubai Mall which is home to every designer store there is. Literally. The mall is massive, it's actually the 2nd largest in the world, and as I wandered around window shopping I often had to check the maps to see my location. I was making my way to the Dubai Aquarium.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618105690_8b405d14e3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618105690_8b405d14e3_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>After shopping for your Gucci you can then visit the 13th largest aquarium in the world. 2.7 million gallons of water are home over 140 total species, including 300+ sharks and rays. I didn't go in but just watching the marine life through the huge glass was pretty cool.</div><div><br /></div><div>And all that before lunch! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618154478_7d6f47cf8d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618154478_7d6f47cf8d_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Back at the Raffles, I picked out a comfy lounge chair by the pool, had a delicious Mediterranean salad and a Dubai Sling (the original Raffles is home to the Singapore Sling), and spent the day swimming and soaking up the sun.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618105565_2db43d7d2d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618105565_2db43d7d2d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Late in the afternoon I had an hour massage at the hotel spa, and I can honestly say it was the best massage I've ever had! The whole spa was great in that my massage room had its own bathroom and closet vs having a communal locker room. Also, they set you in semi-private areas on comfy loungers before and after my service and offered tea and dates. Best part was I used my $100 hotel credit for the massage!<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>That night I went out for dinner at Orfali Bros which I was looking forward to as the menu looked great. And the food was actually super tasty but every server told me numerous times that the menu was meant to be shared. It made me feel a bit unwelcomed. Add that to the fact that the restaurant is dry, I didn't linger over my meal. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630093375_671e546038_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630093375_671e546038_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div><p>After dinner I went to check out the stunning <a href="https://www.theworlds50best.com/bars/the-list/galaxy-bar.html" target="_blank">Galaxy Bar</a>. Wow, this is one of the prettiest cocktail lounges I have been in, and the drinks were excellent as well. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617429886_07f845ccbc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="577" data-original-width="800" height="462" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52617429886_07f845ccbc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>I stayed for a couple of rounds until the DJ started. He was good but I prefer a quieter bar, if you do too just go early. </p><p>Back at the hotel, I packed and turned in early as I had a chauffeur from Emirates airline picking me up at 7am for my <a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/emirates-international-first-class.html" target="_blank">First Class</a> flight home to Seattle!</p><p>All photos from Dubai <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAoy1W" target="_blank">here</a>. </p><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/my-birthday-with-pharaohs-in-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">My Birthday with Pharaohs in Luxor, Egypt</span></a></span></p><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/day-2-3-in-luxor-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Day 2 & 3 in Luxor, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/four-nights-on-nile.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Four Nights on the Nile<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/48-hours-in-aswan-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Aswan, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/new-years-eve-inside-egypts-pyramids.html"><span style="font-family: times;">New Year's Eve Inside Egypt's Pyramids<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/exploring-cario.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Cairo</span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/48-hours-in-dubai-uae.html"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/emirates-international-first-class.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Emirates International First Class</span></a></span></p></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-19006878618047393342023-12-03T15:47:00.000-08:002023-12-16T19:18:05.979-08:00Exploring Cario<p>Trip date: January 2023</p><p>Cairo, the last stop on our Egypt trip, is the largest city in Africa and the 6th largest city in the world. 24 million people live in the 1000 year old capital which also boasts 1000 minarets. It is crowded, dusty, smoggy, and loud! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619867390_caa8366dcc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619867390_caa8366dcc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>We chose to stay in Zamalek, which is an island neighborhood on the Nile. It's quieter here, and a bit more metropolitan. It's also where most of the embassies are located, not that we would need one, but the architecture on them was lovely. Our hotel, the Hotel Flamenco, was basic but had big rooms, a bar, and was well located.</p><p>One day we spent the entire day exploring our neighborhood, starting with one of the best breakfasts we'd had on the entire trip at <a href="https://www.zoobaeats.com/" target="_blank">Zooba</a>! We ordered a selection of things including ful, taameya (Egyptian falafel), baldi bread, labneh dip, eggs, fries, and for dessert Zooba rice pudding. The rice pudding was mind blowing it was so good!! Angel hair halva, honey, mixed nuts, and orange zest on sweet and rich rice pudding. Heaven! We ended up having dinner at Zooba a few days later because it had just been so delish but found it not to be as good. So try Zooba when in Cairo, but do it for breakfast/brunch.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620673449_1d23429e01_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620673449_1d23429e01_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>As we wandered around afterwards, you couldn't help but notice all the different street vendors. Anything from nuts, to bread, bananas, to roasted sweet potatoes were for sale on the streets. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620673014_553b1f06a5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="800" height="475" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620673014_553b1f06a5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We stopped in a grocery store, which is always one of the best places to shop anywhere in the world, and also a few boutiques. One in particular, <a href="https://malaikalinens.com/" target="_blank">Madu</a>, sold the most beautiful linens (some of which are now in my house).</p><p>We dropped our purchases back at the hotel and headed to the Marriott for a drink in their garden. This is a stunning property with some interesting history. Originally built as the Gezirah Palace in 1868, it was opened for the visiting dignitaries during the opening of the Suez Canal. In fact, Verdi's opera <i>Aida </i>had its debut here for those guests. But owner Ismail Pasha had to sell the Palace ten years later due to debt, and it then it became a private residence before being turned into a hospital during WWI and then turned again into a hotel. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619889972_36edf25e10_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619889972_36edf25e10_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>We decided to leave Zamalek to check out The Bar at the Four Seasons so we called an Uber and away we went over the bridge to the area called Garden City. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629609526_279e12486f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629609526_279e12486f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Even though The Bar is only on the 3rd floor of the hotel, there are great views of the Nile and a handful of window facing tables. The drinks were expensive but they were very well made, so good we decided to stay for 2 rounds!</p><p>We headed back to Zamalek for dinner at Abou El Sid which had been recommended by a few people. We were all a bit disappointed however as the food was just ok, most of it either overcooked or flavorless or both. I'd pass. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619614034_43e513dd5f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="704" data-original-width="800" height="563" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619614034_43e513dd5f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Walking home we passed many coffee shops crowded with people smoking shisha. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630103393_d02cf56139_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="800" height="498" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630103393_d02cf56139_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The next morning <a href="https://instagram.com/tourguidesherine?igshid=dGplNzR1eDg1bjFo" target="_blank">Sherine</a> picked us up again, this time she had a small van with a driver for us, and we headed to the <a href="https://egyptianmuseumcairo.eg/history-of-the-egyptian-museum/" target="_blank">Egyptian Museum</a>. We were so happy to have a private guide here as the collections are overwhelming!</p><p>Upon entering, we immediately stopped at the Rosetta Stone. This unfortunately is a replica, the original was found by Napoleon's army and is in the British Museum. But it is still fascinating to see the same text in three scripts (Demotic, hieroglyphic and Greek) which led to being able to understand hieroglyphics! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629624021_88ef050e0d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629624021_88ef050e0d_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>There are just so many cool things in the museum. Some highlights for me were the Narmer Palette, an over 5000 year old stone with some of the earliest hieroglyphic inscriptions ever found, the collection of sarcophagus' in the Central Hall, the collections of jewelry and tools, and the items recovered from the tombs of Yuya and Thuya, including their mummies, papyrus, canopic jars, etc, which were missed by tomb robbers!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629639436_860a388588_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629639436_860a388588_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>But of course, most visitors to the museum are there to see the Tutankhamun exhibit. Since the Grand Egyptian Museum had not opened in Giza yet, the exhibit was still at the EMC. No photos are allowed inside, and there is a queue that you move along inside, but it is a spectacular collection. I'd seen one of the traveling shows before, and actually recognized a few pieces, but this was almost the entire collection!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630116268_8f4532139f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52630116268_8f4532139f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>There is really just so much to see that if you visit EMC I would highly recommend getting a private guide to show you around. We spent about 3 ½ hours and definitely did not see it all.</p><p>It was lunchtime and we were all excited to try a local specialty called koshary that we had been hearing about. We were going to Abou Tarek, which is <i>the </i>place for it. In fact it is the only thing they serve!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620095498_03d908c48e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620095498_03d908c48e_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Koshary is a very hearty meal of pasta, fried rice, vermicelli noodles, lentils, and chickpeas, topped with tomato sauce and garnished with crispy fried onions. On the table were decanters of garlic vinegar and hot sauce for adding to your personal taste. It is a super traditional dish, inexpensive and super filling. It was also really good! <div><br /></div><div>Sherine suggested we get the rice pudding for dessert, which we did, but it was very basic compared to the one at Zooba the day before. </div><div><br /></div><div>We were off again, this time Sherine was going to show us Coptic Cairo. Coptic Orthodox Christians are the native Egyptian Christians, it is the largest Christian denomination in Egypt. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619857094_b3367b1ff8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619857094_b3367b1ff8_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The pedestrian only complex here predates the founding of Cairo in 969 AD. Inside the Babylon Fortress, built by the Romans around 100 AD, there use to be a canal which connected the Nile and the Red Sea and it's here where Moses was reportedly found in a basket in the reeds. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620011735_51710ea396_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620011735_51710ea396_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>The Abu Serga church is the oldest in all of Egypt, it was built sometime between 300 and 400 AD. It's so unique, unlike the interior of any other church I've seen, all wood with marble inlay.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619065467_a945eab623_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="551" data-original-width="800" height="441" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619065467_a945eab623_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The church is built on the site where Mary, Joseph, and Jesus were reported to have stopped on their journey into Egypt. You can go into the church's crypt and see the cave where they were believed to have lived, and the well they drank from. Even as a non-religious person, this whole area was pretty amazing.</div><div><br /></div><div>Next we walked to the Hanging Church, named that because because it was built on top of a Roman fortress; its nave suspended over the original ground level.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619976610_81ac8e91af_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="541" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619976610_81ac8e91af_b.jpg" width="434" /></a></div>This church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and has an impressive 110 icons, the oldest dating back to the 8th century. I also thought the pulpit was very interesting and read this about it "The marble pulpit of the hanging church is surmounted by 13 pillars that depict Jesus with the other 12 disciples. One of the pillars is black, which represents Judas, another one is grey representing Thomas".<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619018957_72a548e2f7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619018957_72a548e2f7_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div><div>We left the Coptic area and drove to Citadel Square where Sherine took us through two of the city's Mosques which are right next to each other. This was the only time in the entire country that Forest, Caitlin, and I needed to cover our heads with a scarf. We also were all required to remove our shoes to enter. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619953483_575a5d4c9c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="599" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619953483_575a5d4c9c_b.jpg" width="479" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>First was the Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hasan, one of the largest mosques in the world built between 1356 and 1363. I'd never been inside a mosque before and it was great to be there with someone of the Islamic faith to explain things. </div><div><br /></div><div>The huge internal courtyard has 4 vaulted halls (called <i>Iwans)</i>, each for one of the schools of Islam. A fountain for ablutions sits in the middle.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619899395_e527f6a484_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619899395_e527f6a484_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Behind the Qibla Iwan is the Sultan Hassan's mausoleum, which is a very odd location as the Iwan is in the direction of Mecca therefor anyone praying to Mecca would also be praying to the Sultan. Add that to the fact that he isn't even buried here, as he was murdered by his army commander and his body was never found, but 2 of his sons are laid to rest here. </div><div><br /></div><div>Next door, we visited Refa'i Mosque, also known as the Royal Mosque and built 450 years later. Another huge building with a prayer hall that can hold up to 10,000 worshippers!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619889740_596f6615fd_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619889740_596f6615fd_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Inside the mosque are tombs of members of the royal family, including Farouk I, the last king of Egypt.<br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619716629_882c209da6_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619716629_882c209da6_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>The last Shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, died in Cairo after living in exile for 1 ½ years and is also buried here. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619875165_5a599046f7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619875165_5a599046f7_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /> </div><div>I thought it was really interesting touring both these mosques and learning more about the religion and customs. There are also a lot of beautiful design elements in the architecture and they are very calm spaces, keeping out the sounds of busy Cairo.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619917308_56b2d15f02_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619917308_56b2d15f02_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>That night was our last evening all together, it had been an amazing holiday and we had all learned and experienced so much! We toasted over cocktails at the Ritz Carlton's rooftop bar Nox. This is such a great spot, if the air quality isn't too bad, and they hand out cozy blankets at night if it gets chilly.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618845567_2bfceac7e6_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618845567_2bfceac7e6_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Before heading back to our hotel to pack up, we stopped at Pier 88 for a drink also. It's a fun location, right on the river, and the drinks were pretty good.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618837257_65806fb823_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52618837257_65806fb823_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The next morning I had an Uber pick me up from the hotel at 6:30am. Ugh! It was still dark as I left, and the folks at the front desk thought I was leaving without paying even though we had explained that the entire bill was to be billed to one of the other rooms. It would have been comical if it hadn't been so early! </div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619614004_8556c6cce5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619614004_8556c6cce5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>As the sun rose I could see it would be another smoggy day in Cairo. There was no traffic at that hour so the airport was a very quick 15 minute ride. I checked in and had time for breakfast in the EgyptAir lounge before my flight to my next destination... Dubai!</div><div><br /></div><div>All photos of Cairo <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAorTh" target="_blank">here</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/my-birthday-with-pharaohs-in-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">My Birthday with Pharaohs in Luxor, Egypt</span></a></span></p><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/day-2-3-in-luxor-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Day 2 & 3 in Luxor, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/four-nights-on-nile.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Four Nights on the Nile<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/48-hours-in-aswan-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Aswan, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/new-years-eve-inside-egypts-pyramids.html"><span style="font-family: times;">New Year's Eve Inside Egypt's Pyramids</span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/exploring-cario.html"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/48-hours-in-dubai-uae.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Dubai, UAE<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/emirates-international-first-class.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Emirates International First Class</span></a></span></p></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-59625543970740328832023-11-23T15:55:00.000-08:002023-12-16T19:17:28.125-08:00New Year's Eve Inside Egypt's Pyramids<p>Trip date: December 2022</p><p>We arrived at Giza station, having taken the overnight train from Aswan, at 7am on New Year's Eve. It was super quick to get an Uber and, being so early on a Saturday morning, we were at our hotel in the Zamalask area of Cairo in about 15 minutes. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620475811_48dab1e5e0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="523" data-original-width="800" height="418" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620475811_48dab1e5e0_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The hotel very nicely let us check into one of our rooms so that we could freshen up and store our luggage. We had a private guide picking us up at 9am for a full day out in Giza and Saqqara visiting the pyramids; we were all VERY excited!</p><p>Our guide, <a href="https://instagram.com/tourguidesherine?igshid=dGplNzR1eDg1bjFo" target="_blank">Sherine</a>, came recommended to me by another friend who had just been to Egypt. She picked us up in a very comfortable SUV and told us about the 3 different pyramids as we made the 30 minute drive out of Cairo. We needed to decide if we wanted to buy tickets to visit just the grounds or additional tickets to go inside the Great Pyramid, Khufu's, and/or Khafre's Pyramid (the second largest). </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620518076_417ece07d9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620518076_417ece07d9_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Walking up to the Great Pyramid is nothing short of awesome. It's unbelievable that these huge structures, built in the early 26th century BC, so putting them at about 4600 years old, are still standing. I've had the opportunity to visit <a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2022/08/all-around-gozo.html" target="_blank">Ġgantija</a> in Malta, which is even older at ~5700 years old, but it's nowhere near this size! This pyramid is the only remaining structure of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and was the tallest built structure for over 4000 years at 481 feet tall. </p><p>It was really surprising to me how HUGE the blocks of limestone and granite are that make up the pyramid. And they are super rough as what is left is just the core, 4600 years ago they would have been covered with polished limestone and gold capstone tops!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620936435_e66240dfb5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620936435_e66240dfb5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Nearby the pyramid are the remains of a temple, a cemetery, and a few very small pyramids that are almost just piles of rubble. There are also boat pits, which had full-sized ships in them, for the pharaohs to travel to the afterlife in.</p><p>Most people were taught that the pyramids were built with slave labor, but more modern historians have found that to be false. It is believed that the Great Pyramid was built by about 5,000 paid construction workers and probably around 20,000 more temporary workers. There are cemeteries nearby for the workers who died during the construction.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620497021_527888b3f9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="800" height="471" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620497021_527888b3f9_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>As we wandered around, we also thought it was quite weird to see Giza, a city of over 8 million people, just in the backyard of these world wonders! And it was incredibly smoggy, you couldn't hardly see it!</p><p>Based on Sherine's info and suggestions we had purchased additional tickets to go inside Khafre, the 2nd largest of the pyramids. We had a short queue and noticed that everyone that came out of the pyramid (there is only one way in and out) looked very relieved and very winded!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620414771_d21d374b43_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620414771_d21d374b43_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The entrance was tiny! And as soon as you entered you had to crouch low, as the ceiling was only maybe 3' high, and you are walking down quite a slope. It's also quite narrow so, even though everyone has to exit the same way, you will be squeezing past people as well as crouching low!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620927370_8b885993b7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620927370_8b885993b7_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />It's also hot! After about 10 minutes we came to an area that we could stand up in but just barely (I'm 5'6" and I had about 3" of head room). It was much more comfortable to walk down this corridor but the fact that you are in the middle of a pyramid made me feel like there wasn't much oxygen! <p></p><p>You then enter the burial chamber which, as with the others, is completely bare and empty. They were all believed to have been robbed sometime between 2081 and 2055 BC. And the pyramids were built before decoration and hieroglyphs became a popular way to adorn the insides of tombs, so there isn't anything on the walls. </p><p>We headed back out, this time having to crouch and climb uphill in the corridor. When we finally got to the exit, we understood exactly why everyone exiting looked relieved and out of breath! We were VERY happy to have done the smaller pyramid as the Great Pyramid takes much longer to climb into. If you have claustrophobia I'd say to give this a pass! But it was a fantastic and incredibly unique experience. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619964937_d0ea9cca50_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619964937_d0ea9cca50_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />We headed back to Sherine's car and she drove us to an amazing viewpoint of all 3 of the pyramids where we spent some time taking photos. Incredible!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53347658361_ac70e49ac8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="258" data-original-width="800" height="206" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53347658361_ac70e49ac8_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Then we got back in the car and drove to the Great Sphinx which sits in front of the Pyramid of Khafre and in fact was carved in the pharaoh's likeness.</p><p>Sherine didn't feel like walking far to the site so she ended up parking in a load zone in front of the security office! She was pretty funny and seemed to know everyone!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620906360_7ee115ff82_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="684" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620906360_7ee115ff82_b.jpg" width="547" /></a></div><br /><p>What an amazing statue! 66 feet tall, 241 feet long, and carved from a single limestone block (it has since been restored with multiple blocks), the 4500 year old sculpture is missing parts of its nose, beard and has other damage, but you can still see some of the red paint that originally covered it!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620459016_9c23cc9e9c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620459016_9c23cc9e9c_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The Great Sphinx has spent much of its life buried under sand and was only fully uncovered in the 1920s. There are lots of unknowns about the sphinx, including who built it and how it lost its nose. It was pretty unreal to be standing so close to it!</p><p>And all this before lunch! We made our way back to the car and Sherine maneuvered through the crazy traffic in Giza. It's had to describe the madness of cars, donkeys, people, camels, motorcycles, and bicycles all on the hard packed dirt roads. Sometimes it seems like there is no rule on which side to drive on! Cars and trucks honk to communicate with the others instead of just following rules of the road. It's loud and a bit crazy and we were very happy to have Sherine at the wheel!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620715234_6c2c4b4589_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="458" data-original-width="800" height="366" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620715234_6c2c4b4589_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We stopped at a very touristy spot for lunch called Alezba Village, but surprisingly all of the food was excellent! When we walked in, there were women displaying how bread is made, there was a playground for kids, and horse rides. </p><p>They brought a little hibachi to our table with grilled chicken and beef. There was a selection of appetizers and veggies, and even beers! </p><p>We continued on the road towards our next stop Saqqara; Egypt's largest archaeological site. This area has been used as a necropolis for over 3500 years. The entire area is a mortuary complex with various temples, tombs, chapels, and of course the Step Pyramid of Djoser.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619903057_598abc5f52_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="673" data-original-width="800" height="538" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619903057_598abc5f52_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We entered the enclosure wall, which has a facade of gorgeous polished limestone, hand carved niches, and there would have been towers on either side. There are also a series of false doors which would have been for Djoser to use in the afterlife.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620449756_d6525e9248_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="800" height="485" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620449756_d6525e9248_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Inside the corridor is lined with more highly polished stone and a series of columns which all lead you to the outside courts. We continued along past the Heb-Sed court, an ancient festival for the king after 30 years of reign that would have taken place after he was dead presumably, and past huge pedestals which once held statues of the king and his family. Many of the buildings we passed are still a mystery to archaeologists. Inside one of the pavillion buildings there is graffiti that is believed to be from the 18th century.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619929457_650f678a4f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619929457_650f678a4f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>There is also a serdab, a small, enclosed chamber which has a statue of the deceased Djoser. You had to peek through a hole in the wall to see it! Very cool!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619923672_99c363a8e3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619923672_99c363a8e3_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The Step Pyramid is the world’s first and oldest pyramid, built over 4,700 years ago! Before pyramids, Egyptian pharaohs were buried in rectangular flat-roofed tombs called mastabas. This pyramid is comprised of 6 of those stacked on each other but no one knows why. </p><p>We had purchased a ticket to enter the pyramid, this one was much easier as you can just walk in upright and the corridor isn't narrow. It is still inside a pyramid however, something to keep in mind if you are claustrophobic!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620872910_5bef7946cc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620872910_5bef7946cc_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>Once you get to the end, there is a railing that you can look over and see where Djoser's body would have been laid. His body has never been found though, as the tomb had been looted like the rest in the area a long time ago. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620699824_58e7a3ff98_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620699824_58e7a3ff98_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>After exiting, we explored the other side of the complex and walked around the South Tomb but didn't go in.</p><p>This area is so completely different than the Pyramids of Giza, I'm really glad we visited both! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619922242_043a5ef022_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="771" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52619922242_043a5ef022_b.jpg" width="617" /></a></div><br /><p>That evening, back at the hotel, we played games and drank champagne (that we had packed with us) before having drinks and burgers in the hotel bar. It had been a VERY long and exciting day so we were all pretty exhausted and turned in before midnight. But as I lay in bed reading I could hear fireworks and looked to see them right outside my window! A pretty awesome end to an amazing day!</p><p>All photos from Giza and Saqqara <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjB3Y6o" target="_blank">here</a>.</p><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/my-birthday-with-pharaohs-in-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">My Birthday with Pharaohs in Luxor, Egypt</span></a></span></p><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/day-2-3-in-luxor-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Day 2 & 3 in Luxor, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/four-nights-on-nile.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Four Nights on the Nile<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/48-hours-in-aswan-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Aswan, Egypt</span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/new-years-eve-inside-egypts-pyramids.html"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/exploring-cario.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Cairo<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/48-hours-in-dubai-uae.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Dubai, UAE<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/emirates-international-first-class.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Emirates International First Class</span></a></span></p></div></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-72699746769373176982023-11-13T15:12:00.000-08:002023-12-16T19:17:12.082-08:0048 Hours in Aswan, Egypt<p>Trip date: December 2022</p><p>After departing from our Nile cruise, we were picked up by a private tour guide in Aswan for a day trip to Abu Simbel Temples. It's a long day, about 3 ½ hours of driving each way, and our guide was an hour late and was less than professional so I will not be recommending them, but I do recommend making your way to this fascinating site!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620831094_786c50d6d5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="708" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620831094_786c50d6d5_b.jpg" width="566" /></a></div><p>Leaving Aswan we crossed over the High Dam. When it was completed in 1970, it was the highest dam in the world at 364 feet. Its reservoir, when filled, would have submerged the Abu Simbel Temples so they were relocated to location we were driving to. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621069798_7f3201f197_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="511" data-original-width="800" height="409" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621069798_7f3201f197_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>About 1/2 way through the Nubian Desert, we stopped at a rest stop of sorts. There were toilettes, coffee, and snacks. As we sat having a drink I looked across the highway and saw a mirage! It was so cool, I have never seen one before! I ran across the road to take a few photos.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620851044_17e1a25a5a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="800" height="419" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620851044_17e1a25a5a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When we arrived at the site of the temples, our driver let us out and our guide walked us to the entrance, which is on the west bank of Lake Nasser and 12 miles from the border of Sudan. There's a town with a small airport nearby and that's about it. These massive rock-cut temples are in the middle of nowhere!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Started in 1264 BC, there are two temples; the Great Temple, dedicated to Ramesses II, and the Small Temple, dedicated to his wife Queen Nefertari. The four 66-foot tall statues of Ramesses flank the entrance, smaller statues of his wife and family members are around his feet. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620053957_74272554bb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620053957_74272554bb_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Inside, Upper Egypt and Lower Egypt each have a side dedicated to it. The walls are decorated with scenes of battles, offerings to the gods, and life with his family. As you make your way to the back the rooms get smaller and smaller. It's not a great place if you are claustrophobic! <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620557701_456e56236a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620557701_456e56236a_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Next door is the smaller temple dedicated to Nefetari; the statues on either side of the entrance are of her and Ramesses II.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620801969_b23802b930_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="800" height="580" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620801969_b23802b930_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Inside there are 6 pillars with scenes of the queen and various gods and goddesses. The walls in here are also decorated with scenes of the King's victories, his reign, and of both of them making offerings to the gods. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620025277_02616cebd3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620025277_02616cebd3_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Both temples are totally impressive on their own, but then you remember they were moved here to escape being submerged! But even before that, these temples were covered almost entirely by sand, having been forgotten by the now modern locals, until accidently discovered by a researcher in the area to examine another temple in 1813! You won't spend as much time visiting the site as you do travelling to and from it but we all thought it was a really cool outing.</div><div><br /></div><div>We assumed we would stop for lunch before making the drive back to Aswan, but instead our guide ran into a restaurant and brought us out take out kefta, hummus, pita, etc. Not only is it impossible to eat on a bumpy road through the desert, but the food was awful. Our first bad meal in Egypt!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620070917_ea9f822784_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="800" height="388" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620070917_ea9f822784_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The road between the two towns actually closes at 6pm, so it was important to make it back by curfew. Luckily that wasn't a problem and we were dropped off at our hotel, <a href="https://obeliskhotels.com/" target="_blank">Obelisk Hotel</a> before sunset. </div><div><br /></div><div>This was a very good, although very basic, hotel for our one-night stay. It's right on the Nile with spectacular views of all the boats. We grabbed seats and drinks on the terrace (they also serve alcohol) and watched the sunset show.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620018847_0c656f46f2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620018847_0c656f46f2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>That evening we went out for cocktails at the <a href="https://all.accor.com/hotel/1666/index.en.shtml" target="_blank">Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel</a>. We were excited! This is where Angela Lansbury wrote "Death on the Nile" and is one of the grand dame hotels of Egypt!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621011098_453bf8a815_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621011098_453bf8a815_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>The grounds were lavishly decorated for the holidays; fountains, monogrammed lamps, and twinkly lights everywhere. It was so pretty! </div><div><br /></div><div>We made our way inside the grand entrance to the busy bar area. Unfortunately here is where things went downhill. Maybe they were understaffed? They definitely were not interested in waiting on us! And when Forest and I finally did get our martinis, they were vermouth only! I explained to the waiter that we ordered gin martinis and watched as the barman added gin to each existing cocktail. No stir or anything. And they were crazy expensive. We left after one. </div><div><br /></div><div>We also were told that we were suppose to have paid to be on the grounds! We didn't but just an FYI if you are visiting. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620789299_72616a799e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620789299_72616a799e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The next day we arranged for a late check out so we could spend the day relaxing by the pool. After packing we had a late lunch on the terrace of the hotel and then had the hotel grab us a taxi to go to the train station. Watching the driver pile all of our luggage on top of the car was both amusing and concerning! </div><div><br /></div><div>We got to the train station about an hour before our overnight train to Cairo which was more than enough time. Pro-tip: all over Egypt people will try to help you with your luggage for tips. It's easy enough to say no thank you, but some are pretty assertive and will actually just start walking away with your luggage!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620524586_eee2e730c0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620524586_eee2e730c0_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>The cabin manager greeted me as I boarded, took my bag, and lifted it up above the top bunk to the luggage rack. Very nice! Caitlin and I shared a cabin and Forest and Thibault had one next door. Unfortunately they weren't connecting even though there was a connecting available. We opened it up and used it to play some games and drink some wine (that we brought onboard). </div><div><br /></div><div>We were served dinner, which was better than the lunch we had eaten in our car the day before, and breakfast at a god awful early time the next day. The cabin manager was really great, fantastic customer service and super friendly!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620953370_3dd206cbc5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52620953370_3dd206cbc5_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>The train was very old and very dirty, not for the faint of heart! And with middle of the night stops, none of us got much sleep. But it was a very fun experience and when we got off we were in Cairo!</div><div><br /></div><div>All Aswan/Abu Simbel photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAorSW" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/my-birthday-with-pharaohs-in-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">My Birthday with Pharaohs in Luxor, Egypt</span></a></span></p><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/day-2-3-in-luxor-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Day 2 & 3 in Luxor, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/four-nights-on-nile.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Four Nights on the Nile</span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/48-hours-in-aswan-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/new-years-eve-inside-egypts-pyramids.html"><span style="font-family: times;">New Year's Eve Inside Egypt's Pyramids<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/exploring-cario.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Cairo<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/48-hours-in-dubai-uae.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Dubai, UAE<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/emirates-international-first-class.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Emirates International First Class</span></a></span></p></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-17309160078600665212023-10-29T17:49:00.000-07:002023-12-16T19:16:28.547-08:00Four Nights on the Nile<p>Trip date: December 2022</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621932978_e8806841ac_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="800" height="467" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621932978_e8806841ac_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>After spending 3 days in Luxor last December, we boarded a <i>dhahabīyah</i>, a traditional Egyptian sailboat (the word actually means gilded barge), for a 5 day/4 night cruise down the Nile River to Aswan. We had booked our cruise through <a href="https://realegypt.com/ns-da-5-1-dahabiya-nile-sailing-5-days-4-nights-luxor-to-aswan/" target="_blank">Real Egypt Tours</a> based on them being mentioned in my guide book/their availability/and the reviews of the boat. </p><p>We were picked up at our hotel in Luxor and driven 1 ½ hours to the town of Esna where the boat was docked. Immediately upon boarding we were all surprised that the communal space was much larger than we expected. It looked like the perfect place to spend 5 days relaxing while watching the banks of the Nile slip by. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629944623_ee4ff9a476_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629944623_ee4ff9a476_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Our boat, the Sacred Lotus, had 10 cabins and 22 passengers. Caitlin and I were sharing a room so had booked one of the 2 suites onboard. The room was much nicer than we had expected, with a large bathroom, king bed, 2 walls of windows, and a balcony to sit outside!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629475981_aa9d689658_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629475981_aa9d689658_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>When we booked we were told that the boat didn't serve alcohol (dry country) but that we could bring our own on board. But when we gave our provisions to the bartender Moe, he mentioned he had some wine and beer for sale also. Just an fyi if you are booking something like this, they may make their decision on alcohol based on the passengers; the others on board were all American.<div><br /></div><div>It was Christmas day and we were the first to board, so we had our little gift exchange in one of the common rooms which had been decorated with a Christmas tree. Our guide (the boat comes with one) Ahmed was very curious about our celebration (Muslims don't celebrate Christmas) so we shared our candy with him and told him all about Christmas tradions.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629476211_1a9036f41a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629476211_1a9036f41a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>With everyone now on board we were served lunch (all meals were included and served buffet style) and then all went for a short walk to the Temple of Khnum. Khnum was the god of creation and the source of the Nile River. It felt fitting to visit this 3000 year old site before our cruise commenced!<a href="https://www.tripsinegypt.com/blog/egypt-attractions/luxor-attractions/temple-of-esna/" style="display: block; height: 1px; opacity: 0; width: 1px;"><img height="1" src="https://www.tripsinegypt.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/trips-in-egypt-logo.png" width="1" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629486061_2b1d60d38b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629486061_2b1d60d38b_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>The only part of the temple that is accessible is a hall actually built by the Romans around 150AD. The rest of the temple is still buried 29 feet under the town of Esna! This temple is also the last Egyptian temple to be decorated with hieroglyphic texts.<div><br /></div><div>Back on board we set sail at sunset; it was gorgeous!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629750119_059d2f22ef_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629750119_059d2f22ef_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>We stopped in the small island village of El Hegz to meet a local family and to hear about their water storage system which provides them fresh water for drinking and also for irrigating their farms. The family served us tea and also invited us to check out their home. They were proud of their village and also the woman speaking was very happy to speak in English as she had been practicing. <div><br /></div><div>The next morning we arrived at Elkab where we were shuttled by a couple of vans to a set of tombs cut into the rocks, believed to have been built around 1550–1295 BC. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52628991282_35ff5050c1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="498" data-original-width="800" height="398" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52628991282_35ff5050c1_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Inside, the well-preserved walls were adorned with stories of the buried. There were tales of politics, battles, families, etc. It was great having Ahmed explain the drawings and have an understanding of the lives of some typical citizens of the ancient village. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622237234_a57abecb1e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622237234_a57abecb1e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>As our dahabiya had no motor, most of the trip we were pulled by a tug because of lack of wind. But this time, back on the boat, the sails were raised and we all relaxed on the deck enjoying the beautiful weather. We also had another delicious lunch! The meals onboard were really great!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629835039_600a97766d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629835039_600a97766d_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Our next stop was Edfu, where Ahmed offered everyone a short walk to tour the temple. Forest, Caitlin and I decided to stay on board with some wine and the sunshine. Because we were moored in this tiny conservative town Ahmed suggested that we cover up (I was wearing a tank top dress) and we keep our wine out of sight of the town people. It's was nice of him to suggest this as offending people in other cultures is definitely not what I want to be doing!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629080577_5e2760bca2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629080577_5e2760bca2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><div>That evening, after drinks on Caitlin's & my balcony and another tasty dinner at the communal table, we were all invited to come ashore where we were docked for the night and enjoy some traditional dance and music. Now to me this sounded pretty hokey and is one reason I don't always like an organized tour. But we went and it was fun and the music was interesting. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/54gFklMFutA" width="320" youtube-src-id="54gFklMFutA"></iframe></div><br /><div><div>After a short sail the next morning, we tied up on the banks of Bisaw Island and walked to the village for breakfast. We were invited to stop and watch one of the women roll out the feteer meshaltet, a multilayered bread made with ghee that has a sort of crepe-like texture. Then we sat down to a big table of that delicious bread (which you slather with salty cheese and sweet molasses) as well as ful, falafel, eggs, and mint tea and enjoyed a really great meal!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622088390_d1c324d556_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622088390_d1c324d556_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Afterwards, Ahmed walked us around the village where we saw another type of bread being made, the local school, and a pickup soccer game. It was all interesting and I'm sure that the village receives money from the tour company for compensation, which is great.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621914479_413d22d031_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621914479_413d22d031_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>As we walked back to our boat we were told that we could go fishing with the local men who have lived off the Nile river their entire lives. I decided to stay on board, relax in the quiet, and watch from a distance. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621116127_dc02522e85_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621116127_dc02522e85_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>When everyone was back, we waved goodbye to Biswan and set sail for our next destination. Guess what was for lunch? </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PyQxJUFQt2c" width="320" youtube-src-id="PyQxJUFQt2c"></iframe></div><br /><div>That afternoon we tied up on the west bank of the Nile at Gebel el-Silsila, a site known for its sandstone quarries. This area was absolutely fascinating! This is where much of the stone for the Temple of Karnak and other temples had been cut out and then moved on the Nile.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621608461_cc3a55defe_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621608461_cc3a55defe_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Carved inscriptions of the names of Pharaohs, shrines, and chapels dating from 2034 to 1650 BC are everywhere. You can also see holes carved to loop rope through in order to pull the huge slabs of sandstone onto the waiting boats. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621861314_df182b8e23_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621861314_df182b8e23_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>There were even fossils of shells and ancient footprint drawings by the coptics who had hid out in the these quarries. Seriously fascinating! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622014545_2aa0dc6743_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622014545_2aa0dc6743_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Before reboarding our ship we visited the Speos of Horemheb, a temple for the last King of the 18th Dynasty (1323–1295 BC). And then we continued our sail down the Nile, the views of the quarry from the boat absolutely beautiful!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622004860_3c7b6ca155_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622004860_3c7b6ca155_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>On our last full day on the Sacred Lotus, we docked at Kom Ombo and walked over to the temple of the same name. The temple here is quite unique as it is a double temple dedicated to the gods Sobek, the crocodile god, and Horus, the falcon headed god, built in 180–47 BC.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622025388_978a8c66db_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622025388_978a8c66db_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>The temple is beautiful, sitting right on the banks of the Nile, and is absolutely symmetrical with its reliefs of both gods. And some of the reliefs are just massive in size! Interestingly most of the decor was finished by Cleopatra VII’s father, Ptolemy XII Neos Dionysos.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621961540_28e17c9d93_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621961540_28e17c9d93_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Next door is the Crocodile Museum which has quite an amazing collection of mummified crocodiles!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621009797_155fbc6ff3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621009797_155fbc6ff3_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>From here we jumped in the back of a couple of taxi-trucks and took a very bumpy ride on mainly dirt roads to the town of Daraw. It was quite an experience seeing the menagerie of transportation on the road; tuk-tuks, donkeys, trucks, motorcycles, etc.! </div><div><br /></div><div>On Sundays, tribes come from all over to sell their camels at Daraw's market. Since it was a Wednesday there were only a few young camels waiting for the weekend. Most of these camels have made a 40-day trek from Sudan and other parts of Egypt. Camels at the market go for anywhere from $450 to $1600!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621979183_cb0eb24aa3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="629" data-original-width="800" height="503" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621979183_cb0eb24aa3_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Afterwards we went to the center of town where the regular market is and were given time to check it out. I love a market so was very excited! Caitlin and I set out to explore the stands which had everything from vegetables to camel meat, cushion stuffing to spices.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621737299_9e1ae2a0cf_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="532" data-original-width="800" height="426" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621737299_9e1ae2a0cf_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />We also noticed one of the guys who works on the boat following us. But when we asked him he said he just happened to be in the same area. Turns out Ahmed had sent him to tail us as it is very unusual for the locals to see two Western women out and about on their own (the other families had men with them). And even at the coffee shop we all met back at, it was only men. Ahmed said that local women would never come to the coffee shop but it was fine if we were there. Just very different culturally, but we never felt unsafe.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621468566_7879c6f2d5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="658" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621468566_7879c6f2d5_b.jpg" width="526" /></a></div><br /><div>By the way, all of this was before lunch!! Once we were back on the boat, the crew hoisted the sails and we had an entire day of relaxing on the deck watching the scenery.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621454791_597a94a501_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621454791_597a94a501_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>At sunset we watched them take the sails down for the last time, we had one more happy hour on Caitlin's and my balcony, and one more great dinner. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621926943_12fb900bf1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621926943_12fb900bf1_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div>We packed and settled up our tab and put tips in envelopes. We spent the last night moored just outside of Aswan where we could see the city's lights in the distance. What a fantastic journey this had been!</div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621714894_1e41cc8727_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52621714894_1e41cc8727_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>The next morning we disembarked our Nile cruise and set off for the next Egyptian adventure!</div><div><br /></div><div>All photos from the Nile <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAowQ5" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/my-birthday-with-pharaohs-in-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">My Birthday with Pharaohs in Luxor, Egypt</span></a></span></p><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/day-2-3-in-luxor-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Day 2 & 3 in Luxor, Egypt</span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/four-nights-on-nile.html"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/48-hours-in-aswan-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Aswan, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/new-years-eve-inside-egypts-pyramids.html"><span style="font-family: times;">New Year's Eve Inside Egypt's Pyramids<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/exploring-cario.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Cairo<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/48-hours-in-dubai-uae.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Dubai, UAE<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/emirates-international-first-class.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Emirates International First Class</span></a></span></p></div></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-42466357470207779262023-10-10T19:01:00.001-07:002023-12-16T19:15:21.621-08:00Day 2 & 3 in Luxor, Egypt<p>Trip date: December 2022</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626051698_e80f34b04a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626051698_e80f34b04a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Day 2 in Luxor! After a lovely breakfast in the garden of the hotel (eggs, Egyptian pita with falafel, feta, cucumber, tomato, and fresh hibiscus juice) our guide Gaber and the driver picked us up. We'd be spending the entire day exploring the East Bank. And since there is only 1 bridge in Luxor it was a 40 minute drive around. There is a ferry but it's passenger only.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625772319_a80072207e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625772319_a80072207e_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>The East Bank is where the main city and big hotels are. But to be clear, this is definitely a developing nation situation so the roads are dusty, many are dirt, and all means of transportation are on them; cars, scooters, donkeys, bicycles, people walking, tuk tuk, horse and buggy...and we passed our first camel!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629452436_3b89a1bc82_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629452436_3b89a1bc82_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Our morning stop was at the Luxor Museum, which sits right on the banks of the Nile looking out to the west. We started in a small room, called the Luxor Cachette, that houses 15 statues that were discovered under the Luxor Temple in 1989. We'd be visiting the temple later in the day so it was very cool to see these. </p><p>I really liked this museum as it was small enough to comfortably cover without being absolutely overloaded. Some of the highlights for me were the collection of almost perfect statues that had been excavated, the mummy that many believe to be Ramses I (which was originally stolen by grave robbers and sold to someone in Canada!), the collection of funerary objects, and original "blueprints" of tombs!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626029748_1d0ca644f0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626029748_1d0ca644f0_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>After a few hours at the museum we drove to Karnak Temple. As this was a Friday it seemed that every man in town was on his way to the central mosque when we drove past. It was quite a sight to see, not to mention the call to prayer that was blaring from loudspeakers around town. Friday is the most holy of the Muslim weekdays we learned, so many places will close midday for a while.<div><br /></div><div>This complex is huge! About 200 acres huge! It was constructed over 1500 years, entirely for the worship of the god Amun, chief god of ancient Thebes (Luxor). It is believed to be the largest religious complex ever built. Gaber had some color prints of what it may have looked like in its heyday. Incredible.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625549601_9a5220e9c7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625549601_9a5220e9c7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Karnak is made up of over 200 structures including temples, chaples, squares, obelisks, a lake, and the famed Great Columns. 134 giant columns to be exact, all made out of sandstone. At the time they would have supported a roof and walls.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625542411_d76f7b3dea_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="612" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625542411_d76f7b3dea_b.jpg" width="490" /></a></div><br /><div>The complex use to have 17 obelisks, 3 are still standing. The one on the left is for Thutmosis I and the one on the right is for Hatshepsut. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625973980_0a921d3e93_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625973980_0a921d3e93_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>It's overwhelming to try to comprehend that anything is still standing from this 3300 year old complex. I was completely blown away and before coming didn't even know anything about it! It was definitely one of my favorite stops. </div><div><br /></div><div>It had been a big morning and we were all looking forward to lunch. We had chosen <a href="http://www.sofra.com.eg/" target="_blank">Sofra</a> and had invited Gaber to be our guest. It's one of the better restaurants in town so he was excited, as were we. We sat upstairs on their terrace, had some delicious fresh juices (the restaurant is dry) and an assortment of mezze at our big round table that looked like a giant tray. I ordered the local specialty <i>hamam mahshi</i> (pigeon stuffed with rice) and when I went to cut into it with fork and knife Gaber let me know that locals pick up the entire bird and bite right into it. Done! It was excellent!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625786709_e652f1bbcc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625786709_e652f1bbcc_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>It was late in the day and we were headed to the Luxor Temple; the sun was just starting to set and the light was gorgeous on the banks of the Nile.</div><br /><div>First we walked to the remains of the Avenue of Sphinxes, a 1.7 mile long road which was lined on both sides with more than 1,050 statues of sphinxes and rams that connected Karnak to Luxor Temple. That's a lot of statues!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625968615_08d398d6a2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625968615_08d398d6a2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><div>As we walked up to the temple, the first thing we saw was the last remaining obelisk in Luxor. This one has a twin which was gifted to the city of Paris and is at the Place de Concorde. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626012323_c781d4278a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626012323_c781d4278a_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div>3,400 year old Luxor Temple was built over hundreds of years. Pharaoh Amenhotep III started the construction, both Tutankhamun and Horemheb added to it, and then Rameses II finished it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629706719_b2215b6a1b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629706719_b2215b6a1b_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The temple was buried under the streets of Luxor for thousands of years. This mosque was actually built right on top of it and you can still see the door, red painted around it, where the street would have been!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625018357_e573a3c66d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625018357_e573a3c66d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div>You'd think we would have been "ruined" by this time but everything is so damn fascinating! It was also really cool to walk through the temple as dusk turned into night.</div><div><br /></div><div>Luxor souk is just across the street so Gaber took us inside to do a little shopping. We all found the merchants to be particularly aggressive about making a sale. If you even glanced at something they were right there starting to sell you. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625960085_d12e91b59e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625960085_d12e91b59e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>We all did end up buying some scarves as the weather had turned colder than we had expected (and packed) for. But it was an ordeal even with Gaber! This isn't a locals market so they are use to tourists.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625009992_b97fd451bb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625009992_b97fd451bb_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Phew! It had been a long day! We said goodbye to Gaber and headed to the Royal Bar at the Winter Palace Sofitel Hotel. Martinis were had! Maybe 2! Pro tip: if you are in need of a cocktail in Egypt your best bet is to head to one of the large international hotels. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625524781_8dd291cd7d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625524781_8dd291cd7d_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>We called a driver that the hotel had introduced us to the night before for a ride back to the West Bank and spent the rest of the evening chilling out in the Embrace Hotel's lovely garden.<div><br /></div><div>On our last day, Christmas Eve, we were supposed to go for a sunrise hot air balloon ride over the valley. Unfortunately this was canceled due to high winds. Fortunately we got to sleep in and had a ½ day to just relax in the gardens of the hotel. </div><div><br /></div><div>Gaber met us after lunch and we walked down to the banks of the Nile. He pointed out some interesting things along the way, including homes that had paintings on them signifying that members of the home had made the pilgrimage to Mecca.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625957055_de3a22fd07_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625957055_de3a22fd07_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>We'd see this throughout our travels around Egypt. Much easier to decipher than hieroglyphics! <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625521071_c8dfb8abda_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625521071_c8dfb8abda_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>Our afternoon was spent on a private felucca, a traditional simple wooden sailboat. We had invited Gaber to join us and we all had a great time sailing around the Nile, taking in amazing views of the Luxor Temple from the water, and checking out the other boats. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625769344_13e80cbec4_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="354" data-original-width="800" height="283" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625769344_13e80cbec4_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /><div>We had an early dinner at Banana Island which is also a restaurant. After filling up on hummus, kefta, and a delicious soup we were given a huge bunch of bananas to take with us. It's a thing I guess!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625997348_3f2277195c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625997348_3f2277195c_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Back on the boat, we shared them with the captain and his "sail boy" while sipping on hot mint tea and literally sailing off in the sunset.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625765334_8822fafa25_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="416" data-original-width="800" height="333" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625765334_8822fafa25_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>What an outstanding end to an amazing time in Luxor! We absolutely loved Gaber our guide (see prior post for his contact info) and we all felt like we learned a lot about the pharaohs, temples, and tombs in the area. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625129012_4600b38331_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="473" data-original-width="800" height="378" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625129012_4600b38331_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div>All Luxor photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAohLV" target="_blank">here</a>.<br /><div><br /><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/my-birthday-with-pharaohs-in-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">My Birthday with Pharaohs in Luxor, Egypt</span></a></span></p><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/four-nights-on-nile.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Four Nights on the Nile<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/48-hours-in-aswan-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Aswan, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/new-years-eve-inside-egypts-pyramids.html"><span style="font-family: times;">New Year's Eve Inside Egypt's Pyramids<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/exploring-cario.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Cairo<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/48-hours-in-dubai-uae.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Dubai, UAE<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/emirates-international-first-class.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Emirates International First Class</span></a></span></p></div></div><div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-62530304340568753612023-10-08T16:17:00.001-07:002023-12-16T19:13:59.217-08:00My Birthday with Pharaohs in Egypt<p>Trip date: December 2022 </p><p>Last year I finally was able to visit a country that had been on my list since I was a kid; Egypt! My friends and I went for my birthday, Christmas, and New Years. It was amazing!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629672479_db68be81e1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629672479_db68be81e1_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I flew from Seattle to London on Virgin Atlantic. Virgin had had a points transfer deal which made my Chase points worth 30% more so I booked into their Upper Class which I had never flown and was excited about. Virgin shares the Delta Lounge at SeaTac, which is really a great lounge, so I had a lovely snack paired with champagne before boarding my overnight flight. </p><p>I always love a layflat bed when flying but I have to say that the configuration of Virgin's B787 was not good. All the "pods" face into the aisle (instead of forward) and have their back to the window. This means you are facing everyone; so weird!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625127307_a3b24cb041_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625127307_a3b24cb041_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Service was very good, all my food was fine (the airplane salt & pepper shakers were a cute touch), goodie bag was basic, but the jammies were great! I wouldn't choose to fly this particular metal again but that is a first world problem, I am aware. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625118762_ea70fe63d8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625118762_ea70fe63d8_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>In London I met my friend Caitlin at our terminal for our Egyptair flight to Cairo where we would be connecting on to Luxor. As we waited to board we found out that Egyptair is a dry airline, aka no alcohol served onboard due to their Muslim ownership, but you could BYOB! So I grabbed a couple of mini bottles of wine and away we went. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625118822_856bc5c118_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625118822_856bc5c118_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div>I had booked my London-Cairo-Luxor flights using miles via Amex so was also in business class. The layflat seat was very comfy and there was a ton of room! I asked the flight attendant for a glass for my wine and had a very enjoyable flight. Unfortunately Egyptair is known for being delayed and our flight was 2 hours late getting into Luxor, meaning we had missed our connection to Luxor (with our friends Forest and Thibault on it!).</div><div><br /></div><div>Egyptair was very helpful though and not only put us up in a hotel but let us choose the Marriott which was in the airport. Since I am Marriott Gold they gave Caitlin and I a huge room with a lovely big bathroom. We ordered up some room service and caught up, forgoing any actual sleep as we had a 4am wake up call for our rebooked 6am flight. TOO EARLY!</div><div><br /></div><div>Our 1 hour flight to Luxor was uneventful, I was even served a good breakfast and coffee in nice china in business class. We landed at Luxor airport, picked up some gin in duty free, and grabbed a taxi to meet our friends at the <a href="https://www.embracehotel.com/" target="_blank">Embrace Hotel</a> on the west bank. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626065360_6d71ed3e86_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626065360_6d71ed3e86_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Dec 22nd, my birthday, and boy did we hit the ground running! We got to the hotel at about 9am and our private guide picked us up at 10am for our day in the Valley of the Kings. Hiring a private guide, we used Gaber and booked thru <a href="https://www.yalla-egypt.com/" target="_blank">Yalla Travel</a>, meant that we had an Egyptologist and a driver for 3 days to show us around and more importantly to explain the over THREE THOUSAND YEAR OLD history of what we would be seeing. </div><div><br /></div><div>As soon as we were on the road heading west to the Valley, Gaber was pointing out excavation sites, ruined statues, and other tombs in the hills. It was absolutely surreal! All of the area is an excavation site basically. I was thrilled!!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626089730_6504ce7019_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="452" data-original-width="800" height="362" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626089730_6504ce7019_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>There are 63 tombs in the valley and 11 are open to the public, but not all on the same day. We chose to visit 4 of them, including Tutankhamun's (did you know he was buried in Luxor?).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625112257_685e8ca40f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625112257_685e8ca40f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Our first tomb was KV14 which was originally built for Queen Twosret, who was the last ruler of the 19th dynasty of Egypt. She was buried here in 1189BC. The tomb was then reused and extended by Setnakhte, the first pharaoh of the 20th dynasty. It was very unusual for a tomb to be used like this and also makes it one of the largest tombs in the valley. For an idea of the the layout of these tombs <a href="https://thebanmappingproject.com/tombs/kv-14-tausert-and-setnakht" target="_blank">this site</a> is fascinating! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629421976_433125f5c3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629421976_433125f5c3_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Next we toured KV11 which is the tomb of Pharaoh Ramesses III. Setnakhte originally started this tomb but abandoned the project when they accidently broke into the tomb of Amenmesse! <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629872240_e64dbd105d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629872240_e64dbd105d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>KV62 is everyone's favorite child pharoah, King Tutankhamun. Immediately upon entering you go down a set of stairs and through a small hall before entering a chamber where Tut's body is on display! This isn't the burial chamber, you continue just a bit to enter into that small but lavish room. It's just incredible that you can be that close to the 2000 year old mummy!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629694364_37f3f1555c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52629694364_37f3f1555c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />And finally KV6 the tomb of Pharaoh Ramesses IX. The walls of the entrance here are covered completely in hieroglyphics but as you continue on the decorations aren't complete. They think that maybe the had to rush the finish when the pharaoh died.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626108578_a592d66798_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626108578_a592d66798_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Nothing can prepare you for walking into these tombs. The fact that the colors on the walls are still so distinct is mind blowing. It would be very easy to spend the day here but we had more to see! </div><div><br /></div><div>A short distance away we stopped at the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, built into the base of the cliffs just outside of Luxor. It looks like a movie set!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625107427_59d52a2d16_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="436" data-original-width="800" height="349" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625107427_59d52a2d16_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div> </div><div>Queen Hatshepsut was the wife of Pharaoh Thutmose II and reigned from 1479 BC until 1458 BC. She is remembered as one of Egypt's greatest rulers. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626096798_9dbd2966c7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626096798_9dbd2966c7_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>This 3-level temple took 15 years to build and was like nothing else at the time. Originally there were rows of sphinxes guiding you to the 900 feet long building adorned with 22 Hathor columns. There are chapels dedicated to various gods and walls covered with reliefs of every known plant and animal in all of Egypt. It's truly a marvel. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626055975_a3b123e3d2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626055975_a3b123e3d2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The entire complex was to be used as a place for people to worship Hatshepsut in her death and to remember her greatness. Unfortunately her stepson Thutmose III hated her. After her death he tried to erase her existence by removing her name from buildings, demolishing statues of her, monuments, etc. There's a lot of drama with these pharaohs! </div><div><br /></div><div>And all of this was before lunch!! Gaber took us to a restaurant with a nice terrace overlooking the nearby fields for some traditional Egyptian food. And then we were off again...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625602856_c791089d32_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625602856_c791089d32_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Next we visited Medinet Habu. There is so much history at this site! Originally Hatshepsut built this as a Temple to the god Amun in the early 18th Dynasty. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wz4TfohmMz4" width="320" youtube-src-id="wz4TfohmMz4"></iframe></div>Then Ramesses III had more construction done to make it his Mortuary Temple. It's a huge complex with courtyards, temples, storage rooms, a palace, etc. It was very cool seeing this after visiting his tomb earlier in the day.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626077468_13dd7bd92a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626077468_13dd7bd92a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>When you visit these sites you will see security men keeping an eye on things in the ruins. They will also offer to show you areas and rooms not open to the public... for a fee. It's a good idea to keep 5 and 10 Egyptian Pounds (20-30 cents each) in your pockets for this. We were shown a few interesting spaces including the area where animal sacrifices were made. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625074092_21d166c5a7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625074092_21d166c5a7_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>It was late in the day when we visited and the light was just beautiful! And we were the only people there by the time we left. Honestly, this site wasn't on our list but our guide Gaber recommended it and I'm so glad he did! It's his favorite as he grew up in the village next to it and he use to play in the ruins as a kid! Amazing!! </div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625834344_63ce340362_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625834344_63ce340362_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>We made a quick stop at the Colossi of Memnon on the way back to our hotel, which were built in 1350 BC as part of a massive temple that no longer stands. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625586196_ea9cc5452d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="507" data-original-width="800" height="405" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625586196_ea9cc5452d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>And then it was time to have a drink, get cleaned up, and go out for my birthday dinner! We went to <a href="https://marsamhotelluxor.com/food-concept/" target="_blank">Marsam</a> which is inside a very cool hotel by the same name. The food was great, and the restaurant served wine (most don't since it's a Muslim country), and the company was even better!<br /><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625583721_e21e9db16a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625583721_e21e9db16a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Happy Birthday to me! In Egypt!!</div><div><br /></div><div>All Luxor photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAohLV" target="_blank">here</a>. </div><p class="p2" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/my-birthday-with-pharaohs-in-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/day-2-3-in-luxor-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Day 2 & 3 in Luxor, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/10/four-nights-on-nile.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Four Nights on the Nile<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/48-hours-in-aswan-egypt.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Aswan, Egypt<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/11/new-years-eve-inside-egypts-pyramids.html"><span style="font-family: times;">New Year's Eve Inside Egypt's Pyramids<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/exploring-cario.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Cairo<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/12/48-hours-in-dubai-uae.html"><span style="font-family: times;">48 Hours in Dubai, UAE<br /></span></a></span><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/emirates-international-first-class.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Emirates International First Class</span></a></span></div></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-63568671586108455522023-09-04T18:30:00.001-07:002023-09-04T18:30:23.532-07:00Santa Fe Weekend<p>Trip date: April 2023</p><p>I had never been to New Mexico so I asked my friend Gail if she wanted to do a weekend in Santa Fe. We used one of my Alaska $99 Companion Fare certificates and flew in Premium class after work on a Thursday. Unfortunately our flight ended up being 1 ½ hours late; fortunately we both have access to the Amex Centurion Lounge at SeaTac. </p><p>We flew into Albuquerque and while joking with the car rental agent at Alamo about getting an upgrade, their manager offered us a brand new Chevy convertible for the same price as our basic car. Nice!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52801278709_01546a3d41_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="705" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52801278709_01546a3d41_b.jpg" width="353" /></a></div><p>It was about a 1 hour drive to the <a href="https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/saflc-la-posada-de-santa-fe-a-tribute-portfolio-resort-and-spa/overview/?scid=f2ae0541-1279-4f24-b197-a979c79310b0" target="_blank">Marriott La Posada de Santa Fe</a>. Gail had stayed here before and was excited about returning but when we checked into our room we were in a very old room with 2 Queens and a tiny bathroom. We had been upgraded to a room with a patio but the only place for my suitcase was in front of the patio door so we didn't use it. It was really too bad as the rest of the property looked pretty nice and many of the rooms had wood fireplaces! We were both disappointed.</p><p>Because of our flight delay, it was too late for dinner but we had a couple of nightcaps in the bar, which also had fireplaces burning the local piñon wood which smells incredible. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805518630_a462a4462c_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805518630_a462a4462c_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>The next morning we had a great breakfast at the hotel. New Mexico is known for their Christmas sauce, which is both red and green chili sauce on your enchilada's. It is absolutely delicious, and much spicier than I expected! Especially at breakfast!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808564050_e254ed01b4_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808564050_e254ed01b4_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>On the agenda was a visit to <a href="https://tenthousandwaves.com/" target="_blank">Ten Thousand Waves</a> spa. It's about 30 minutes outside of the city, situated up in the hills. We chose to park in the lower parking lot and walk up the 90 steps to the reception. </div><div><br /></div><div>Modeled after a traditional onsen, they offer public or private baths, and also a foot bath. There are also meditation rooms, a sauna, and a great gift shop. We soaked in the foot bath and then the public bath before each having a massage. The masseuses each had their own little rooms they worked out of. It was incredibly relaxing and we both loved our visit here!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805112931_6427e22584_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805112931_6427e22584_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Back in town we hit up <a href="https://www.coyotecafe.com/cantina" target="_blank">Coyote Cafe</a> for a late lunch of nachos and margaritas. So good!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808365449_bb81f85141_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808365449_bb81f85141_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>Afterwards we walked around the corner to <a href="https://www.gruetwinery.com/" target="_blank">Gruet</a>'s tasting room. We had reservations, and it was a good thing as it filled up right after we arrived! The tasting room is beautiful and their sparkling wines are delicious. What a fun afternoon!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808162566_0519ce14be_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808162566_0519ce14be_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>On our walk back to the hotel we stopped at <a href="https://www.innonthealameda.com/joes-tequila-bar/" target="_blank">Joe's Tequila Bar</a> which is inside the Inn at the Alameda. I was quite impressed with their selection and their service. It was the first time I had tequila served with orange and cinnamon and I liked it!</div><div><br /></div><div>On Saturday we started our day at <a href="https://teahousesantafe.com/pages/the-teahouse-santa-fe-restaurant" target="_blank">The Teahouse</a> where I had a huge breakfast burrito. Then we made the hour drive to <a href="https://www.nps.gov/band/index.htm" target="_blank">Bandelier National Monument</a>. Wow! What an incredible area this is! </div><div><br /></div><div>We took the Pueblo Loop Trail, which is very easy and takes you past the remains of an indigenous village that had about 400 people living in and near around it about 500 years ago. Walking through the ruins was awesome but you could really see the layout once you walked up into the hills a bit.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808726493_ed5eded008_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808726493_ed5eded008_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>In these surrounding hills are over a thousand caves that were dug into the soft rock and used as dwellings. Many of them are accessible by ladder, all of them are super tiny inside!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808477824_cb4159d3d2_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808477824_cb4159d3d2_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />As we continued along the trail there were areas with ancient petroglyphs. You barely had to search for them they were so obvious!<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805559138_b80cecdec8_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805559138_b80cecdec8_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>When we got to the Alcove trail we headed toward the large cave which is located 140 feet above the floor of Frijoles Canyon. It is believed that around 25 Ancestral Pueblo people lived here between 1250 and 1600 AD.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805515340_03c953632d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="533" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805515340_03c953632d_b.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>We decided to climb up. Eek! There are a series of 4 wooden ladders as well as some stone stairs. I'm not the best with heights (fear of falling!) and there were a lot of people but Gail was a great coach!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805369039_be650c8f02_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805369039_be650c8f02_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>It was much harder coming down, for me anyway. My arms definitely got shaky and I had a little vertigo, but once you are up there, there isn't any other choice but to also climb down. I've never been in anything like it before and I was super glad we did it!</div><div><br /></div><div>It was a stunning drive back to Santa Fe, cold and sunny, we had the top down and the heat cranked up!</div><div><br /></div><div>Back in town we had another late lunch, this time outside at the <a href="https://www.plazacafedowntown.com/" target="_blank">Plaza Cafe</a>. Afterwards we did some shopping at a few of the pottery galleries.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808465614_786df70b15_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808465614_786df70b15_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>We decided to do a little happy hour cocktail crawl starting at <a href="https://www.hotelstfrancis.com/eat_drink/secreto_lounge/" target="_blank">Secreto</a> which is inside the Hotel St. Francis.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52807704522_67505fe174_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52807704522_67505fe174_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>Drinks were good and it's quite a fun vibe; they have a nice little patio also but it was full when we were there. We walked over to <a href="https://www.lafondasantafe.com/la-fiesta-lounge" target="_blank">La Fonda</a> and for another margarita before heading back to our hotel for some tacos. La Fonda is known for the bar up in their bell tower but it wasn't open for the season yet.</div><div><br /></div><div>Sunday was Easter and we hadn't made any big brunch plans so we headed back to Plaza Cafe for a last enchiladas with Christmas sauce outside in the sun with mimosas.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52804552192_7ae8849112_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52804552192_7ae8849112_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>We spent the rest of our day touring through some of the art galleries, shopping for chili powder, and checking out the <a href="https://www.lorettochapel.com/staircase" target="_blank">Loretto Chapel</a> and its mysterious staircase. Spoiler alert... it's a spiral staircase that reportedly was built by a mysterious carpenter, without anyone witnessing him. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805512000_ff45465a60_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52805512000_ff45465a60_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>I was much more interested in going inside the Cathedral but as it was Easter weekend it was open for mass only. </div><div><br /></div><div>Before heading to the airport for our evening flight home, we drove to <a href="https://www.happyaccidentsbar.com/" target="_blank">Happy Accidents</a> cocktail bar in Albuquerque for one round. It's super fun, has a huge selection of tap cocktails, and a wonderfully nice staff. I highly recommend a stop if you are in the area!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808741658_644bfa6785_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52808741658_644bfa6785_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>It's an 8 minute drive to the airport from there. Easy peasy!</div><div><br /></div><div>All New Mexico photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAzMqG" target="_blank">here</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div><div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-26201213821240512542023-08-28T14:46:00.003-07:002023-08-28T14:50:51.985-07:00Exploring Corsica<p>Trip date: September 2022</p><p>The Mediterranean island of Corsica, or Corse as it is called by its country of France, is quite an unique place to visit!</p><p>Corsica is thought to be settled in about 560 BCE during the Mesolithic period. Corsicans are pretty fiercely Corsican first, French a distant 2nd! The island birthplace of Napoleon was purchased from the Genoese in 1767 and many locals still would like to see independance. They speak Corsu as well as French (and many speak Italian). They have their own very distinctive flag with an image of a (supposedly) decapitated Moor head on it, representing defeating the Moors in ancient wars. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420030010_7cbf4e6f1c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420030010_7cbf4e6f1c_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Corsica is also incredibly beautiful and is known for its lush mountains, pristine beaches, and postcard-worthy vistas. Forest and I flew in from Marseille and met up with our friend Nicola in the capital city of Ajaccio. We had a <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/562703858267410099?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=f1911296-4b19-4fe9-8080-ca1613213e2a" target="_blank">3-bedroom Airbnb</a> with some seriously fantastic views of the sea. </p><p>We spent a lot of time on our terrace, eating Corsican cheeses and charcuterie, drinking Corsican wines, and watching the big ferries come in and out of the port. It was very relaxing and the scenery was just fantastic!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419585286_56662dd93e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419585286_56662dd93e_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>We also did a wonderful hike at Pointe de la Parata which has one of the 90 Genoese towers built in 1550 to defend the Corsican coasts against invaders. It's a bit of a steep and rocky climb to the top where the tower is but the views of the Îles Sanguinaires were a great reward!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419596691_4902f3172a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419596691_4902f3172a_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>The 2 ½ mile loop skirts around the point and has beautiful views from all sides. It's an easy hike, except for the tower!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420038420_5214a16fd4_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420038420_5214a16fd4_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>We then drove down to Marinella beach and had a very fun lunch at <a href="https://www.kosbeachclub.com/" target="_blank">KOS</a>. The location absolutely can not be beat! It's stunning, staff was good fun, and all of our food was quite tasty. If you are around this area I'd definitely plant yourself here for a glass or two of rosé!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419879459_897f0efd57_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419879459_897f0efd57_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>After a couple of days in Ajaccio, we set off for Bonifacio on the very south tip of the island. It's a 2 ½ drive so we had plenty of time for a few stops along the way. </div><div><br /></div><div>The first was the seaside town of Propriano; the drive through the mountains was absolutely beautiful! </div><div>Once in town we did a short hike along the coast and down to the beach. The color of the ocean was stunning and the wind was crazy strong!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420115608_a355cf8266_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420115608_a355cf8266_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>We had a quick, and not very good, lunch in a random cafe and then continued our drive to the medieval town of Sartène. I think our Airbnb host had recommended a stop here, it's a super cute tiny town built into the hillside. <div><br /></div><div>We walked around a bit and did some shopping for some local cheese and charcuterie for apero hour.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420058370_915c030be9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420058370_915c030be9_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>The rest of the drive to Bonifacio was just stunning! It was all mountains, cliffs, and sea!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419904594_a2d8ac79eb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419904594_a2d8ac79eb_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Unfortunately that is where the day turned a bit poor. We had a hell of a time finding our Airbnb and when we finally did it was NOTHING like what we thought we had rented. It had been listed as a bungalow and apparently that means trailer home in French. Not only was it an absolute dump but the 3 rooms were so tiny I could barely walk into my room! And we were in the middle of nowhere! Luckily we had a lot of snacks and salad makings for dinner and of course a good traveling bar!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420134573_bae09b88e4_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420134573_bae09b88e4_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>Nicola called the hosts and explained that this would not work for us, I went online and booked us a hotel in Bonifacio proper, the next day we checked out of our trailer home and checked into <a href="https://www.amadonetta.com/" target="_blank">Hôtel A Madonetta</a> (which was a great location and fine room but pretty surly service).<div><br /></div><div>Bonifacio is a tiny and beautiful town that sits right on the Mediterranean with Sardinia just an hour away by ferry. It was super windy so we scrapped plans for lunch in Italy and decided to take the tourist train up to the citadel. Sounds very unlike me, but that is one steep climb to the top and none of us had slept well in the trailer!! The little train gave us great views of the yachts in the harbour and also the commercial boats in the port before dropping us off in the upper town, the oldest on the island.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419912149_f13a44317b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="800" height="254" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419912149_f13a44317b_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>We made our way through the tiny pedestrian only streets and found the King of Aragon's Staircase, steps build directly into the rock wall, for some more amazing views.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420142213_77973c40f9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420142213_77973c40f9_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Because of the wind, it wasn't advisable to do the entire walk, so we decided to grab lunch at U Castille. What a great meal we had! We were seated in an old room with a stone walls and vaulted ceilings. The restaurant is known for their traditional cuisine so I had their fish soup, which was served with rouille (similarly to Marseille's bouillabaisse) but this soup was very smooth. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419123452_188c99a4b1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419123452_188c99a4b1_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>I also had the wild boar stew and raspberry souffle ice cream. Yum! Highly recommend a stop here if you are in town.</div><div><br /></div><div>We wandered around some more after lunch, exploring the little ally's and doing some shopping along the way. It's a super cute medieval town!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420148678_acfb282c8f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420148678_acfb282c8f_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>Nic decided to head back to the hotel for a bit so Forest and I found a little café overlooking the incredible limestone cliffs and watched them change colors in the light while having some rosé. We walked back down to the lower town at sunset and had a casual pizza dinner at one of the many restaurants that line the port.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420151698_b496b45e0f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420151698_b496b45e0f_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next day Forest and I decided to hike up to the cliffs; Nic wasn't feeling well so stayed back at the hotel. This time there was no tourist train! We walked through town, up the steep streets to the citadel and then headed left over to the trail that runs along the cliffs we had been viewing the day before. Now we could see the walled city that is perched up high.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419170417_98f5385b33_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="800" height="262" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419170417_98f5385b33_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>We could also see Sardinia out in the distance. It was interesting to get closer to the limestone, it's so unique looking, and to peer down at the little coves that line the shore. There were others on the trail but it wasn't crowded at all and it took us about 1 ½ hours round trip from the port. It was really a beautiful hike! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420198578_965a6c0322_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52420198578_965a6c0322_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>We grabbed some very good burgers back in town for lunch and then met up with Nicola. Forest drove us to the local Figari airport to pick up a rental car, as Nic and I had our flight out of Ajaccio the next morning. We had a tiny Fiat which made the 2 ½ drive on the twisty roads a little nerve wracking. It also decided to dump rain for a while!</div><div><br /></div><div>Back in Ajaccio, we had rooms at the Holiday Inn which was super close to Bonaparte airport. Nic and I went grocery shopping for some things to bring home and then had drinks and dinner on the hotel property. The rooms were very nice for a Holiday Inn!</div><div><br /></div><div>At 7:30am the next day we headed to the airport to return the car, but really we could have gone an hour later as it took no time at all and there isn't much of anything to do at the airport except shop for local specialities which we had already done at the grocery store.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419216677_62e7d1b0dc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419216677_62e7d1b0dc_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>By the way, if you visit Corsica don't pass on the local Canistrelli cookies! You can find them everywhere, in both sweet and savory varieties. They are similar to a biscotti and are fabulous!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52422609722_cedc4a0a59_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52422609722_cedc4a0a59_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>We were on Easy Jet for the quick 1 hour 50 minute flight to CDG. I said goodbye to Nicola, collected my bag, rechecked in with Air Canada for my flight home, and was in the Maple Leaf Lounge just 45 minutes after landing! </div><div><br /></div><div>I had booked Business Class from CDG to Montreal with points and my pod was quite nice and comfortable. Air Canada was still following COVID guidelines so masks were still mandatory which was a bit strange. They also didn't pass out any toiletry bag which is very typical on international flights. The food was great, including my foie gras! And I had a nice snooze on the 7 ½ flight to Canada. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52423410739_11e66fb0d2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52423410739_11e66fb0d2_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>In YUL it took quite a while to get through customs and security; I was very glad to have Global Entry to speed things up a bit. The Maple Leaf Lounge here had smoked meat sandwiches which was very Montrealian! </div><div><br /></div><div>Then I was on my way home, 5 ½ hours to Seattle in Business Class on a 737, so no lay flat but still a very pleasant flight.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52423583680_437ee7004f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="800" height="299" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52423583680_437ee7004f_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Corsica is absolutely beautiful so if you get a chance to go, do it! The roads are very twisty and it takes longer than you think to get around so take that into consideration when deciding where to stay. </div><div><br /></div><div>All Corsica photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAe1bH" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>Other posts from this trip:</div><div><div style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/06/paris-for-free.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Paris For Free<br /></span></a><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/07/paris-by-numbers.html">Paris by the Numbers</a><span class="s1" style="color: black;"> <br /></span></span><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/michelin-stars-in-paris.html"><span style="font-family: times;">(Michelin) Stars in Paris</span></a></div><div style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/36-hours-in-marseille.html" target="_blank">36 Hours in Marseille</a><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-69036014591734279952023-08-16T15:00:00.002-07:002023-08-28T14:50:19.856-07:0036 Hours in Marseille<p> Trip date: September 2022</p><p>After a week in Paris, I headed south with my friends Forest and Cliodhna, for a little weekend in Marseille. Even though we had a 7:30 am train ( SO EARLY!) out of Gare du Lyon, I was excited to return to Marseille; my last visit had been in 2010! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52418956902_15f60649e4_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="800" height="293" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52418956902_15f60649e4_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>It's a very pretty 3 hour train trip down to the oldest city in France, and the weather was lovely. We brought mimosa makings on board and had a little breakfast picnic. Once we arrived at the main station it was an easy walk to our <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50909675?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=15eca0a7-4e9f-4029-a1ec-a69e32cfb14a" target="_blank">Airbnb</a> in the Opera neighborhood, which is right near the old port. It was only 11am but we were able to leave our bags at the key pick up place until check in.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52418688897_4a35d4b387_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52418688897_4a35d4b387_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div>You don't go to Marseille without eating bouillabaisse and we were headed to the 70+ year old family restaurant <a href="https://www.chez-fonfon.com/" target="_blank">Chez Fonfon</a> to have ours for lunch. Fonfon is in the tiny port of Vallon des Auffes which is just a short Uber ride away. We somehow scored a very posh Cadillac SUV Uber that was decked out with party lights and leather pillows on the seats! Fancy! </div><div><br /></div><div>Bouillabaisse is serious business in these parts and there are traditions that are followed religiously by local chefs. Typically the dish must contain 4 species of fish, one must be the bony rockfish <i>rascasse,</i> and all fish must come from the Mediterranean Sea and caught that day. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52418711682_260d36b1f1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52418711682_260d36b1f1_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>First, you are served a bowl of the broth, heavily flavored with saffron, which you eat with <i>rouille</i>, a spicy aioli which you spread on toasted bread and float on the bouillabaisse. Then they will bring you your cooked fish and more broth so you can have it all together. It's not the prettiest dish but oh my it is delicious!! </div><div><br /></div><div>After lunch, we walked around a bit and had some wine at a little bar overlooking the Mediterranean, watching the swimmers and sunbathers on the rocks. It was a lovely afternoon!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419339486_ff64ef7384_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419339486_ff64ef7384_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />We headed back to check into our Airbnb and grab our luggage. The space was very pretty and the location was just perfect. We walked that evening to the speakeasy <a href="https://carrynation.fr/" target="_blank">Carry Nation</a> for cocktails.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419659089_a2dda5e45c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419659089_a2dda5e45c_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>This spot was a big hit with all of us. Sometimes speakeasies can be quite pretentious but the staff was wonderful and the drinks were great. Also the menu had a Ramos Gin Fizz on it, and if you put that on your menu I am 100% ordering it without apology.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419832690_a1e9650178_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419832690_a1e9650178_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>It was a stunner!!<div><br /></div><div>From here we headed to <a href="http://copperbay.fr/#contact" target="_blank">Copper Bay</a>; a favorite of mine in Paris so I was very happy to check out their Marseille location. No surprise that the cocktails were fab!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419905133_e41803d558_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419905133_e41803d558_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>The next morning we walked along the old port; the area has been spruced up quite a bit since my last visit, there's now a mirrored roof over the fish and flower vendors, lending an arty vibe. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419921203_4cb504ddd2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419921203_4cb504ddd2_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>On the other side of the port there are lots of little kiosks selling local products and souvenirs. It's all very cute and bustling. And right across the street was our lunch destination, <a href="http://www.lacaravelle-marseille.com/" target="_blank">La Caravelle</a></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419926273_634729abec_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419926273_634729abec_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>Inside the adorable old bistro, we scored a window table with incredible views of the cathedral across the harbor. Pastis was ordered, and rosé, and we had an absolutely wonderful lunch. My salad of melons, feta, jambon, and olives was crazy good and only €15!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419854240_0a8d826065_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419854240_0a8d826065_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>After lunch we continued our walk all the way to the end of the port to the Saint John Fort and the MuCEM (Musée des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée). Walking on the ramparts around the fort give you amazing views of the city in all directions. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419470941_f2d7273ccf_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419470941_f2d7273ccf_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Once you've made your way around you'll see the MuCEM, it's an absolutely stunning building! We didn't go inside but we walked across the (high and slightly scary) bridge and had a drink on their terrace. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419475811_bdc07986f1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419475811_bdc07986f1_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>This is a great walk! Highly recommend!</div><div><br /></div><div>From here we walked back through the port area of town and made our way to the <a href="https://marseille.intercontinental.com/" target="_blank">Intercontinental/ Hotel Dieu</a>. It's a gorgeous grand old hotel and Capian Bar turns out very delicious martinis. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419926295_0a8d6e73e0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419926295_0a8d6e73e0_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>We chose to have ours on the terrace with another great view of the cathedral. It's really a beautiful spot for a drink.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419926225_94cf20fd57_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419926225_94cf20fd57_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>The entire weekend had been very sunny and warm but as we walked back to our Airbnb the skies turned dark and the wind kicked up. It was pretty dramatic!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419496161_b4dfed65be_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419496161_b4dfed65be_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>That evening we had a very good dinner at <a href="https://www.ourea-restaurant.com/" target="_blank">Ourea</a>, a charming neighborhood restaurant filled with locals. 5 courses for €52! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419023377_6d63b3c206_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419023377_6d63b3c206_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>As we were finishing dinner a MASSIVE rainstorm happened! The streets started flooding and Forest and I remembered a similar night in <a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2014/07/dark-and-stormy-new-orleans-style.html" target="_blank">New Orleans</a> years ago! Even though our apartment was just blocks away, there was no way we were braving that in our dresses and heels! Thanks Uber! Our walking in Marseille was officially over.</div><div><br /></div><div>We had a few nightcaps back at ours and said our goodbyes to Cliodhna as Forest and I had a 9am flight to Corsica the next morning and would be out the door quite early.</div><div><br /></div><div>I had been wanting to go back to Marseille for years, in fact Forest and I originally had a trip scheduled in May of 2020... we know how that went. It was so good to be back and so fun to be with these two lovely ladies! </div><div><br /></div><div>All Marseille photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAe4bV" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/06/paris-for-free.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Paris For Free</span></a></p><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/07/paris-by-numbers.html">Paris by the Numbers</a><span class="s1" style="color: black;"> </span></span></p><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/michelin-stars-in-paris.html"><span style="font-family: times;">(Michelin) Stars in Paris</span></a></p><p class="p3" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/exploring-corsica.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Corsica</span></a></p></div><div><br /></div><div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div><div><br /></div><div><br /><p><br /></p></div></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-80889924842381636222023-08-08T16:14:00.001-07:002023-11-27T11:14:01.182-08:00(Michelin) Stars in Paris<p>Trip date: September 2022</p><p>There are just nine Michelin 3-starred restaurants in Paris, and now I've been to three of them. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53102875606_050db45098_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="733" data-original-width="800" height="367" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53102875606_050db45098_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Since 1986 Arpège has been the darling of Paris. Chef Alain Passard earned his 3rd Michelin star in 1996 and has had it ever since. In 2001 the restaurant famously became vegetarian; I knew I would never choose to spend that kind of money on a vegetarian only meal so I figured I would never go. I mean I like vegetables but not that much!</p><p>In 2014 meat returned to the menu, but the focus is still on vegetables. I can get behind that! </p><p>Passard has his own gardens, just outside of Paris, that supply Arpège with all of its vegetables. Everything is picked that morning and delivered to the kitchen's waiting chefs. If you are a local you can even have a basket of vegetables from the same gardens <a href="https://lespaniersdalain.com/collections/lejardin" target="_blank">delivered</a> to your home! You can also buy dishes with his vegetable paintings on them which are used in the restaurant. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376995560_2c7f356d02_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376995560_2c7f356d02_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Forest, Nicky, and I had reservations for lunch on my last day in Paris. None of us had been and we were all excited! Immediately upon entering I noticed the wall coverings; scenes of gardens and vegetables were painted on the white fabric walls with small accents of embroidery (I think this was done by Maison Lesage who is a revered embroidery house now owned by Chanel.)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375624592_aa8a818ae8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="567" data-original-width="800" height="284" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375624592_aa8a818ae8_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Our table was in the main dining room (there is also a room downstairs); the space was airy and done in creams and light wood, the chairs with green caning. I liked it, but I know not everyone is in agreement on the decor. </p><p>While we waited for Nicky to arrive, we had multiple staff come to our table and ask to take one of our handbag stools for another table. We explained each time that our friend would need it. It was unprofessional and it definitely rubbed my friends the wrong way. Not the best start to lunch.</p><p>We all had a glass of the house rosé Champagne (there was no cart brought about, just a question on if we would like one) and then all ordered the set menu "<i>Le déjeuner des jardiniers</i>" which is €185 per person. The restaurant oddly doesn't commit to how many courses you will be served, but we had around 12 courses by the end. </p><p>You can also supplement your tasting menu with additional courses from the menu. I really wanted to try their Sole Meuniere but it was only served as a whole dish for the table and the ladies weren't interested. Our waiter said he'd see what he could do...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376575961_d6c3eb8ccf_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376575961_d6c3eb8ccf_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>The meal started with a little plate of vegetables served plain and I will just say we all kind of rolled our eyes. But as we tasted the tomatoes, we each exclaimed that it was the most "tomatoey" flavor we'd ever tasted!<div><br /></div><div>One of the dishes Arpège is known for is the "<i>chaud froid d’oeuf aux 4 épices, sirop d’érable</i>" or the Passard egg. A warm, perfectly soft boiled egg yolk is added to the shell with cold creme fraiche, chives, and a touch of maple syrup. It was absolutely delicious. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376575871_7f4c073654_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376575871_7f4c073654_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>All the dishes we had were visually beautiful; there were lots of colors and textures on each plate. And the flavors really did stand out! This dish of "sushi" almost had me liking beets...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375625687_9d6d25897a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375625687_9d6d25897a_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>But after the 2nd beet dish, a "tartare", I mentioned to the server that I hoped there would be no more beets (I'm not a fan for those of you who don't know me)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376799648_e9f55d62ac_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376799648_e9f55d62ac_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>The only dish that wasn't very pretty surprised us in how delicious it was. A dish of gratineed onion was warm, had crispy bits amongst the soft vegetable, and had a very meaty taste to it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375625597_ccc3ef90d0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375625597_ccc3ef90d0_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>Unfortunately, there was a huge service misstep with this dish. One of the ladies was in the restroom when the plates were delivered to the table, so they served two of the three. Not only have I never been at a Michelin starred restaurant that served plates when a diner was away from the table, but in this case our friend returned from the bathroom to find us both eating which is quite rude. Service then brought hers out. It was shocking really. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376995205_f26ca5faef_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376995205_f26ca5faef_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>That misstep was followed by the kitchen bringing out a ½ order of the sole for me. A ½ order is not really available so this was a really nice touch. The fish with tiny clams and buttery potatoes in a Vin Jaune sauce was incredible; truly one of the best things I've ever eaten. </div><div><br /></div><div>I wanted to give the ladies a taste of the fish but they both said that it would be in bad taste to share since the kitchen had gone out of their way to provide a ½ order. The dish wasn't free, in fact it was a €110 supplement so I should be able to do whatever I wanted with it! But I kept the fish to myself as they suggested. </div><div><br /></div><div>We were served two desserts, the first was simple dish of the best strawberries in an infusion of sorts and adorned with pretty little flower petals. The second was another Arpège classic, the Apple Tart Rose.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375625447_6e2b2fcbc1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375625447_6e2b2fcbc1_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Beautiful, but I have to say that the flavor was fine and I thought the texture could be better. </div><div><br /></div><div>As Arpège doesn't offer wine pairings we had ordered a lovely Alsatian Riesling and then a very interesting Beaujolais Blanc. With dessert, a small digestif cart was brought over which had a very special bottle of Chartreuse Reine des Liqueurs and a ratafia fortified wine made by Champagne house Adrien Renoir.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376799523_bfedd26da5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376799523_bfedd26da5_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><p>Another surprise for me was no cheese course! I'd read that it was quite a nice trolly (I guess back in the day) and was looking forward to it. The mignardises were not the traditional macarons baked in interesting flavors that I had heard about, but instead, puff pastry bites filled with baked fruits. Fine but not what I was expecting, and honestly I like to take those home for breakfast the next day!</p><p>Our main server, Passard's son Louis, was a little overly familiar with us. He was quite chatty which is pretty much a no-no at a restaurant of this type. But he did take some great photos of us!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376994960_fb69e1069a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="800" height="389" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376994960_fb69e1069a_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>We were the last to leave at 4:30, so a leisurely 3 ½ hour lunch was had. I enjoyed the meal, especially as I was with great friends, but we did spend a good amount of time later, over glasses of champagne, discussing the pretty blatant flaws that really didn't seem fitting of a 3-star. </p><p>Have you been to Arpège? If so what was your experience? </p><p>All Paris photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAdYqa" target="_blank">here</a>.</p><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/06/paris-for-free.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Paris For Free</span></a></p><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/07/paris-by-numbers.html">Paris by the Numbers</a><span class="s1" style="color: black;"> </span></span></p><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/36-hours-in-marseille.html"><span style="font-family: times;">36 Hours in Marseille</span></a></p><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/exploring-corsica.html" style="background-color: transparent;" target="_blank">Exploring Corsica</a><span style="background-color: transparent;"> </span></span></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-62212112279473329442023-07-19T13:45:00.003-07:002024-02-14T13:04:28.426-08:00Paris by the Numbers<p>Trip date: September 2022</p><p>There are 20 arrondissements, or quarters, in Paris; the 1st is in the center and they circle around and out clockwise like an escargot shell. You'll hear various nicknames for each, depending on if you are asking a local or reading a guidebook, but most are named for an area monument or building. And if you are not sure which arrondissement you are in, or heading to, you can tell by looking at the last two digits of the address zip code. I'm sure most of you know all that, but just in case!</p><p>So on this last trip to the City of Light, which just happened to be my 20th(!) I thought I'd explore as many of Paris' 20 as I had time for. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376810093_5d80c5420e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376810093_5d80c5420e_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><b>The 1st/ Le premier</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>My friends that I stay with have jobs like most of us, so I was left to my own devices a few times. I absolutely love exploring Paris, and there is a lot I like to see that is of little interest to people who live there. </div><div><br /></div><div>Les Halles is a great area to wander in and it had been a long time since I had spent any time there. This time I went in to St. Eustache, which is an absolutely lovely church. I explored the seven chapels, gazed up at the 109 foot tall vaulted ceiling, found "The Disciples of Emmaus" by Rubens (1611), and checked out their 8000 pipe organ, one of the largest in France. </div><div><br /></div><div>Henri Miller's sculpture Ecouté is also right outside the front of the church. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376891404_3b15dbe41f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376891404_3b15dbe41f_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div>I had read an article on Champeaux restaurant, right across from the church, Alain Ducasse's casual eatery highlighting his "upside down" souffle and had lunch there. Let me just say that the service was absolute shit -and it wasn't even ½ full- and the food was fine at best. PASS.</div><div><br /></div><div>On the banks of the Seine, and right next to the reopened La Samaritaine department store, is the very chic Cheval Blanc Hotel. Up on the 7th floor you will find <a href="https://www.chevalblanc.com/fr/maison/paris/restaurants-et-bars/le-tout-paris/" target="_blank">Le Tout Paris</a>, where you will indeed see pretty much all of Paris from their fabulous terrace!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52377005110_6b80768be2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52377005110_6b80768be2_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>It's a wonderful (and expensive) spot for a drink but really these views are worth it!</p><p>Also part of the 1st is the Île de la Cité, the island in the very center of Paris. I headed here one morning to <a href="https://www.sainte-chapelle.fr/en" target="_blank">Sainte Chapelle</a>, arguably the most stunning church in the world. By purchasing a timed ticket online I was able to enter without a big queue, you can get your ticket the day-of on the website.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OmOUsOUPwAM" width="320" youtube-src-id="OmOUsOUPwAM"></iframe></div><p>This was my 3rd time visiting and it never disappoints. But if you can choose to go on a bright, sunny day the stained glass really shines. Pun intended!</p><p>There are laminated cards you can use to read about the stories told in the 15 windows, personally commissioned by King Louis IX for what use to be his private chapel. Truly stunning.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376889289_6d9351d0f9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376889289_6d9351d0f9_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>As I left the church and walked over the bridge to the left bank, I got my first look at the damage and construction on Notre Dame cathedral. It's still so sad and unreal!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376577596_c65d93b43b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="800" height="296" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376577596_c65d93b43b_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><b>The 3rd & 4th/ </b><b>Marais</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>There's a lot going on in the Marais but if you are looking for a cocktail, <a href="https://www.lrdparis.com/" target="_blank">Little Red Door</a> is a do-not-miss stop. LRD is currently at #5 on the <a href="https://www.worlds50bestbars.com/the-list/little-red-door.html" target="_blank">50 Best Bar list</a>, and for good reason. They make absolutely lovely cocktails, the service is super friendly, they take sustainability seriously, and they are open daily!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52411348379_32283e7787_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52411348379_32283e7787_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Just down the road a bit is another great spot for a drink, <a href="https://thecambridge.paris/" target="_blank">The Cambridge Public House</a>. Sometimes names can be deceiving, and that is certainly the case here. Instead of pints of beer, we found a menu of creative and seasonal drinks. Well worth a stop, especially if you find the wait at Le Mary Celeste to be too much (as we did). </div><div><br /></div><div>If you are looking for a meal then <a href="https://www.parcelles-paris.fr/en/" target="_blank">Parcelles</a> should be on your list! We went one day for lunch, just before it seemed to become one of the buzziest new spots in Paris. This tiny bistro is serving up modern dishes using traditional ingredients. They have a great list of wines from smaller producers as well. I had the carpaccio tête de veau, porc rotie, and a fig clafoutis. It was all delicious!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52417146220_bba5c2baa1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52417146220_bba5c2baa1_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>And if you are in the mood for a museum, let me suggest the very unique <a href="https://www.chassenature.org/en" target="_blank">Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature</a>. Literally this means hunting and nature, and there is an astonishing amount of taxidermy! But the museum is more than that, offering a fascinating look at ancient, modern and contemporary collections that the founders have been collecting for about 50 years.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419185916_d34f68ba28_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419185916_d34f68ba28_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Throughout the private mansion which houses the collections, you'll find numerous drawers and cubbies to open and explore. There are displays of tapestries, sculpture, paintings, and of course guns. It's all very interesting; I've never seen anything quite like it!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375626802_79c5e3f492_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375626802_79c5e3f492_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Village Saint Paul is a quiet, pedestrian only area in the Marais, known for its selection of antique shops. Don't wander here during lunch when the shops are closed, or you'll feel like you are in a deserted neighborhood. Before noon or after 2:30pm you can pop in and out of little courtyards and maybe find some treasures to take home. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376801253_3e2d2c1976_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="612" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376801253_3e2d2c1976_b.jpg" width="306" /></a></div>Basically if you see an archway with an open door or gate, you should take a peek! I met a lovely Japanese photographer with his own gallery and also found some very cool shops. Some with antiques, some with vintage clothing, and another with this awesome wall of mirrors.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376996715_a76c11d6ee_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376996715_a76c11d6ee_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><p><b>The </b><b>5th/ </b><b>Latin Quarter</b></p><p>I absolutely love classic French bistro food. I had read about <a href="https://rotisseriedargent.com/en/" target="_blank">La Rotisserie d'Argent</a>, the more casual sister of the famous La Tour d’Argent, and thought this sounds exactly like where I want to go for lunch. I was exactly right.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376801413_394e952c3c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376801413_394e952c3c_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Seated at a lovely window table with a view of the booksellers along the Seine, I was brought an amuse bouche to go with my glass of champagne while I read the menu. I decided on the <i>oeuf mayonnaise </i>served on medallions of potato and topped with grains of mustard. </p><p>My main course of a 1/2 roast chicken with jus and duck fat roasted potatoes was served to me hot from the cast iron skillet and was fantastic! I finished lunch with an espresso which came with a madeline, perfect! I have to say that the service here was the best I remember ever having in Paris, except for at a Michelin star restaurant. Highly recommend and will be making this one of my go-to spots!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376577296_125782ca63_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376577296_125782ca63_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>If you need to walk off your lunch, The Church of Saint-Séverin is tucked just a few blocks back on the street of the same name. It's one of the oldests churches on the left bank, originally built around 650 as a chapel in homage to the hermit monk Saint-Séverin who lived and died on the site. Then it was destroyed by the Vikings in the 9th century and rebuilt in the 13th century in a flamboyant gothic style. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376578176_2f84f4d058_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376578176_2f84f4d058_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>It's rarely busy so it's very easy to pop into. Outside you'll see lots of interesting gargoyles peering down at you!</p><p><b>The</b><b> 6th/ </b><b>Saint-Germain</b></p><p>A favorite casual restaurant of mine is the <a href="https://camdeborde.com/les-restaurants/avant-comptoir-du-marche" target="_blank">Avant Comptoir du Marche</a>, I mean I actually really like all the Avants-Comptoirs but at Marche there is some seating whereas the others are stand-up only. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376807238_19c91120d0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376807238_19c91120d0_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>We ordered a selection of plates to share, including some delicious duck hearts, remoulade, and octopus. It was a fabulously sunny Saturday and it felt like most of Paris was either eating here or walking by. This is such a fun spot!</p><p>While we were eating I spotted a shop across the street with a window full of quenelles! Based in Lyon, a town known for its quenelles, the <a href="https://giraudet.fr/les-boutiques/paris-mabillon" target="_blank">Giraudet</a> shop sells a gorgeous assortment of both regular size and mini(!!) dumplings along with a selection of sauces. We grabbed some minis to take home for apero hour!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375633527_e3f2272790_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375633527_e3f2272790_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Not far from here we passed by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/popeliniofficiel" target="_blank">Popelini</a> which sells amazing flavors of chou à la crème, otherwise known as cream puffs. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376895064_b4d399fe74_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="800" height="210" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376895064_b4d399fe74_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><p>I highly suggest that if you are visiting the city and have an Airbnb or the like, these quenelles, a roast chicken & potatoes from a local stand, and Popelini for dessert make a very <i>dîner francaise. </i>And that is exactly what we had that evening!</p><p><b>The </b><b>8th/ </b><b>Champs Elysées</b></p><p>One afternoon we met some friends for a lovely brunch at the <a href="https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/fr/preparer-sa-visite/cafe-jacquemart-andre" target="_blank">Cafe Jacquemart-Andre</a>. The restaurant is in the dining room of the once private mansion-turned museum and is absolutely gorgeous. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375630677_3ca448f73c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375630677_3ca448f73c_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Sunday brunch is 32.00 € and includes hot drinks, juice, a pastry/bread basket, a choice of entree and dessert. I added champagne to mine... cuz France. I don't think they take reservations, we arrived right at opening to get a table for the 7 of us on the terrace.</p><p>Also in the 8th is the ritzy area of Madeline. My favorite tea shop <a href="https://stores.fauchon.com/en/paris-madeleine-boutique-the-et-infusions" target="_blank">Fauchon</a> is located here, so I usually make a stop to stock up, this trip was no exception. A glass of wine and some people watching in this area is great too. </p><p><b>The 9th/ </b><b>Opera</b></p><p>One evening we went out with Forest's friends,<a href="https://chezlouloufrance.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"> </a><a href="https://chezlouloufrance.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Jennifer</a> and <a href="https://www.davidlebovitz.com/" target="_blank">David Lebovitz</a> for drinks and dinner in Pigalle. Our cocktail spot for the evening was "gritty glam" <a href="https://www.sistermidnightparis.com/" target="_blank">Sister Midnight</a>. It's a tiny spot with creative and tasty cocktails which also hosts drag and burlesque shows on the weekends. Very fun!!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52377000125_1c23f447fa_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52377000125_1c23f447fa_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>A short walk away, right where the 9th meets the 10th, we had a very good dinner at <a href="https://nouvellegardegroupe.com/en/bellanger/infos/" target="_blank">Brasserie Bellanger</a>. Highlights were the olive tapenade, lamb croquettes, and steak frites. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376891589_7e9cf55c9c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376891589_7e9cf55c9c_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div></div><div><b>The 10th/ </b><b>Canal St Martin</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>On another night before dinner, we made a repeat visit to <a href="http://copperbay.fr/" target="_blank">Copperbay</a> for a couple of lovely cocktails. It's always a pleasure to come here; the drinks are delicious, the staff are super nice, and the space is very modern and chic.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375626507_626c98460f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375626507_626c98460f_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>Next up we walked to <a href="https://www.marrowparis.com/en/" target="_blank">Marrow</a>, a relatively new modern bistro just steps from Gare de l'Est. We were seated at the kitchen pass, great seats for watching Chef Hugo Blanchet (formerly of l'Atelier Robuchon et chez Hélène Darroze à Londres) create stunning dishes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376887724_aa875ff01e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376887724_aa875ff01e_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The menu is short and changes daily. We chose about ½ of the plates offered (they will also do a tasting menu for you) and I'd be hard pressed to name a favorite as everything was delicious! Using traditional ingredients, the dishes are creative and fun.</div><div><br /></div><div>We started with a piece of toasted bread piled high with beef tongue and shaved cheese. Sounds weird, tasted like a great pastrami open faced sandwich!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376995895_6c5bbf2879_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376995895_6c5bbf2879_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The octopus here may be just as famous as the marrow. Both are do-not-misses! The bone marrow is cooked inside a "bone" made of bread, so that pretty much everything is flavored and edible. It is fantastic!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376995790_774e6a580b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="759" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376995790_774e6a580b_b.jpg" width="380" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><br /></div><div>I haven't really spent any time in the 10th, unless I'm going travelling through Gare du Nord or Gare de l'Est but it's someplace I want to explore more. And I'd love to eat here again!</div><div><br /></div><div><b>The 11th/ </b><b>Nation</b><br /><div><br /></div></div><div>It wasn't my first time, but seeing an exhibit at <a href="https://www.atelier-lumieres.com/en" target="_blank">Atelier Lumieres</a> is always great! This time we saw Van Gogh, which of course was beautiful, and also a feature on ‘Yves Klein: Infinite Blue’ who I didn't know as much about.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375636007_bc02ddd141_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375636007_bc02ddd141_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div>There's a couple of great cocktail bars in the area, one is <a href="https://www.theworlds50best.com/discovery/Establishments/France/Paris/Fr%C3%A9quence.html" target="_blank">Frequence</a>. It's unique in that they have an amazing collection of vinyl and are playing fantastic music while you sip on your delicious cocktails!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375629077_4473ddf21e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375629077_4473ddf21e_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>A 10-minute walk from Frequence is <a href="https://contact42507.wixsite.com/website" target="_blank">House Garden</a> which offers low ABV cocktails made with seasonal ingredients and some very delicious small plates. The inside is adorned with lots of leafy green plants and there is also outside seating. It's a great spot!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376997775_76d2311b9c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376997775_76d2311b9c_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>The 12th/ </b><b>Bercy</b></div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52417158770_08e6cdac99_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="794" data-original-width="800" height="397" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52417158770_08e6cdac99_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>I'm not sure if this is still an offering, but Forest arranged for a group of us to go up on the roof of the Opera Bastille for a tour of the <a href="https://exploreparis.com/fr/4622-terrasses-cultivees-opera-bastille-safran.html" target="_blank">saffron gardens</a>. Unlike the Opera Garnier, the Opera Bastille is a very modern building and is the perfect environment for the crocus which like direct sun. The Opera also has a vegetable garden on a lower roof area.</p><p>We were let in through a locked side entrance and through the back halls, elevators, and stairways of the Opera. That in itself was very cool! The building is so massive that there are elevator maps showing which department is where and how to access different areas. </p><p>We then had our first peak at the gardens as we exited a staircase to one of the lower roof levels. It was much bigger than I expected!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52417844227_42ccda32bb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52417844227_42ccda32bb_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>Our guide explained the hows and whys while we explored the peppers, tomatoes, herbs, etc. Then we returned to the back hallways of the Opera and made our way past the ballet dancer's practice studios, the musicians quarters, and all the way to the highest rooftop where the crocus grows. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52418638919_d2b267cfc6_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52418638919_d2b267cfc6_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>The flowers weren't in season but holy hell this view!!! The other ladies I was with have all lived in Paris for years but even they were completely wowed by this view! And they pointed out the terrace of Yves Saint Laurent's apartment to me, very cool! <p><b>The 14th/ </b><b>Montparnasse</b></p><p>On my first night in town Forest and I headed to <a href="https://www.closeriedeslilas.fr/" target="_blank">La Closerie des Lilas</a> in Montparnasse. This is one of my favorite places to have a martini. The restaurant, and it's bar The Hemingway, have been serving Parisians since 1847. As with many places in this area, it was the haunt of many writers, actors, and artists. The barmen are professional and friendly, there is a piano player, and the customers are mostly locals. </p><p>As we were enjoying our drink, Forest glanced at the man sitting next to her and realized it was an older French moviestar. She was pretty tickled, and said hello and chatted for a minute. Seems La Closerie is still a spot for artists! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52362997684_4c65a0650c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52362997684_4c65a0650c_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>When her husband arrived, we moved to the casual part of the restaurant (there is a more formal section) for a lovely dinner of classic bistro dishes, including these excellent escargot. If you are looking for a old school brassiere, you can not go wrong with this one!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376895354_bd964e8f05_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376895354_bd964e8f05_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Also in the area is Rosebud, another classic spot that was adored by the local artists. We stopped in for a drink early one evening much as past regulars Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre most likely did. They'd still be at home with the 1930s decor at this historic, quiet and casual bar just off Rue Montparnasse on Rue Delambre.</p><p>All photos from Paris <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAdYqa">here.</a></p><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/06/paris-for-free.html"><span style="font-family: times;">Paris For Free</span></a></p><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/michelin-stars-in-paris.html"><span style="font-family: times;">(Michelin) Stars in Paris</span></a></p><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/36-hours-in-marseille.html"><span style="font-family: times;">36 Hours in Marseille</span></a></p><p class="p3" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/exploring-corsica.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Corsica</span></a></p></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-5479375742155862992023-06-11T18:23:00.006-07:002023-08-28T14:48:53.594-07:00Paris For Free<p>Trip date: September 2022</p><p>Since Covid, I had only been back to Paris for a quick <a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2022/07/christmas-markets-birthday-celebrations.html" target="_blank">24 hours</a> in Dec 2021. This time I was looking forward to spending a full week in the city before venturing off to other French destinations. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376999905_1e8c4fd737_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="662" data-original-width="800" height="331" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376999905_1e8c4fd737_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>But France being obsessed with strikes, did not make it easy for me to get there! They were having a one-day air traffic control strike; guess which day! Originally I had booked a business class flight on Cordor which connected in Frankfurt on Lufthansa to CDG. Cancelled. </p><p>I was automatically rebooked in business on Delta transferring in Amsterdam. Cancelled.</p><p>I am not exaggerating when I say I spent HOURS (6 to be exact) on the phone with all three airlines trying to get a flight. Each of course said only the other could do it. I ended up having to find my own flight (it had to be in air to CDG the day before to get around the strike rules) and finally got Delta to book it. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52361357173_b875a92726_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52361357173_b875a92726_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Seattle to Minneapolis in a middle economy seat (grrr), then MSP to CDG in DeltaOne Business, which sounds great but it was an older plane and the layout was not very good. The tvs in each "pod" face almost face each other and there is no privacy partition. Oh well, any lie flat bed is better than no lie flat and the food and service were better than expected. And the Delta Lounge at SeaTac is huge and fantastic!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52362999624_ce9cd156b3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52362999624_ce9cd156b3_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>This new flight got in at 7am, much earlier than my planned arrival at my friend Forest's, so another friend invited me to come over for breakfast and to take a nap and a shower. Very nice of her and a great little visit with one of her daughters and her hubby. </p><p>Forest had a lot planned for us and luckily much of it was going to be free because I was there during <i>Les Journées Du Patrimoine</i>. The 3rd weekend of each September is Paris' "Heritage Days" where the city gives access to buildings and monuments that are usually closed to the public; mark your calendars! Additionally many sites and museums grant free access during this time. And of course, Paris has a lot of museums and interesting sites that are always free. Here are all the places we were able to hit up:</p><p><a href="https://www.fondation-giacometti.fr/fr/institut" target="_blank">Institute Giacometti</a>- The artist's studio was relocated from its original location into this stunning art deco apartment in Montparnasse. The intimate space houses some of Giacometti's work including sculpture, sketches, and books. It's a lovely spot!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376892269_c5b2e65476_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376892269_c5b2e65476_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p><a href="https://www.fondationcartier.com/en/" target="_blank">Fondation Cartier</a>- Also in Montparnasse, but in a large modern building, we explored the works of Australian contemporary artist Sally Gabori. Neither of us were familiar with her but were wowed by the colorful, large format paintings. I found it fascinating that she only started painting in 2005, at the age of eighty, and passed away in 2015 having achieved international attention and respect for her artistic ability! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376892679_6c7a6a4a23_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376892679_6c7a6a4a23_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71079/Musee-Zadkine" target="_blank">Musee Zadkine</a>- This was the home and workshop of Russian sculpture Ossip Zadkine until he passed away in 1967. It's near the Jardin du Luxembourg, tucked back off the main street. There are about 400 pieces of his work, both inside and out in the garden. This was also an artist I wasn't familiar with and it was really nice to explore his work.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376581451_f5e8844453_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376581451_f5e8844453_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>Saint Sulpice Church- We joined a free lecture on the gnomon. Built in the early 1700s, this obelisk works like a sundial and indicates the date of Easter. There is a small hole in one of the stained glass windows that the sun streams through, a line of light is cast on the meridian running along the floor and then up to the brass ball on top. It's pretty interesting! And the church itself is lovely to stroll through. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376583081_0453fa5428_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="591" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376583081_0453fa5428_b.jpg" width="296" /></a></div><br /><div><a href="https://www.pixietcie.com/copie-de-accueil" target="_blank">Museum of Pixie</a>- In Saint-Germain-des-pres there is an adorable shop called Pixie & Cie. I had read about the "toy store" years ago in <a href="https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2017/08/these-thousand-dollar-toys-are-not-just-for-kids" target="_blank">Vanity Fair</a> but had never had a chance to check it out. Upstairs is a museum of thousands of hand-made toy figurines living their best lives. Tiny apartment windows give you glimpses of their home life, others are performing in the symphony, some in the circus. There is a whole wall of figures dressed in haute couture from YSL, Jean Paul Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel, etc. Other vignettes display beloved Parisian character Tintin as well as Asterix, Babar, and the Smurfs. The figurines range in price from $60-1000 and are intended for collectors vs children. It's all charming!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375633697_bc7acf71a2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375633697_bc7acf71a2_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>While in this area we also stumbled upon <a href="http://www.librairieminima.com/" target="_blank">Minima Gallery</a> which had some incredible miniature books and artwork and also <a href="https://seine55.com/en/artists/" target="_blank">Gallery Seine 55</a> which just happened to have a Klee, which when we asked about the owner told us the story on how he came to acquire it. You never know what you'll see while wandering in the 6th; it's a gem!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376807648_6c72c9e043_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="685" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52376807648_6c72c9e043_b.jpg" width="343" /></a></div><br /><div>Jardin du Luxembourg Greenhouses- We arrived quite early in the morning for this rare opportunity to explore the greenhouses of the city's famed park. So early in fact that it was hard to figure out where the line was as there were only a few other people queued. But that would change as the morning went on so we were very happy to be some of the first inside.</div><div><br /></div><div>The greenhouses have many gorgeous plants from around the world but the <i>piece des les resistance </i>is a house just for the collection of over 13,000 orchid plants! The gardeners are known for their ancient hybrids that they have been growing for years; the oldest plant being from 1885. It's a 137 year old orchid! This plant has survived since before WWI! It's crazy!!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52377000525_8a82f1e974_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52377000525_8a82f1e974_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The greenhouses are also the site of a conservatory orchard of 100's of varieties of apples and pears, again some of them created 100+ years ago. <div><br /></div><div><a href="https://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71069/Musee-Carnavalet-Histoire-de-Paris" target="_blank">Musee Carnavalet</a>- The Museum of the History of Paris, originally opened in 1880, use to be only in French, no subtitles of any kind. Unfortunately my French is near nonexistent so I had never been. Then the city closed the museum for 5 years giving it a major overhaul and just reopened in May of 2021. It now has not only multiple language options on almost all the pieces, but modern digital displays as well. It's an incredible collection that takes you on a chronological tour of the artifacts, sculptures, paintings, and design of Paris from 9600 BCE to the 21st century. </div><div><br /></div><div>The two connected mansions that house the museum also have an absolutely charming terrace where we sat after with a glass of wine and discussed the collections. I'd add this to your do-not-miss list!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375629857_45d398e8ae_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52375629857_45d398e8ae_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><a href="https://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71077/Maison-de-Victor-Hugo" target="_blank">Maison de Victor Hugo</a>- In a corner of the beautiful Place de Vosges, the French writer Victor Hugo lived for about 10 years. It was in this mansion where he wrote <i>Les Misérables. </i>It's a beautiful home, and an interesting peek around at the writer's furnishings. I just love touring through the old haunts of famous people. Especially when it's free!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419466899_0011a3512d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52419466899_0011a3512d_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>That's a lot of free stuff to see in my opinion! And this is just a taste of what Paris has to offer <i>gratuit</i>, there are literally hundreds of things you can explore. The <a href="https://en.parisinfo.com/what-to-see-in-paris/paris-for-free" target="_blank">city website</a> has some excellent information even if you aren't there during Heritage Days.</div><div><br /></div><div>All Paris photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAdYqa" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/07/paris-by-numbers.html">Paris by the Numbers</a><span class="s1" style="color: black;"> </span></span></p><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/michelin-stars-in-paris.html"><span style="font-family: times;">(Michelin) Stars in Paris</span></a></p><p class="p2" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/36-hours-in-marseille.html"><span style="font-family: times;">36 Hours in Marseille</span></a></p><p class="p3" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/08/exploring-corsica.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Corsica</span></a><br /></p><p class="p3" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px;"><br /></p><p class="p1" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-43467483946897789662023-06-03T18:03:00.000-07:002023-06-03T18:03:16.364-07:00Dallas Y'all<p>Trip date: March 2023</p><p>I hadn't been to Dallas since the early aughts, and that was was for an overnight work trip when I use to pitch potential clients for a startup tech company I worked for. So when the bestie said she would be heading to East Texas to visit her family, and we realized Amtrak runs between Mineola (where her parents live) and Dallas, I suggested a quick weekend/meet up.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52741615807_26cf455925_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52741615807_26cf455925_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>I had a direct SEA->DFW Alaska Air flight and got to check out the newly opened American Express Centurion Lounge in SeaTac. It is so spacious and lovely; you can read a good review <a href="https://thepointsguy.com/reviews/new-amex-centurion-lounge-seattle/" target="_blank">here</a>. You can see it if you look up when in the central terminal as they built a 2nd story and it is perched like a loft! Excellent addition to the local airport lounges!</p><p>Because of flight schedules I flew down a day early and spent my first night at the <a href="https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/dfwhaqq-hall-arts-dallas/?SEO_id=GMB-AMER-QQ-DFWHAQQ&y_source=1_MTc3NTYzNTktNzE1LWxvY2F0aW9uLndlYnNpdGU%3D" target="_blank">Hilton Arts Hotel</a>. It's a beautiful hotel and even without getting an upgrade based on my Gold status, I had a huge and very pretty corner room.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735953135_69a79e70fd_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735953135_69a79e70fd_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>I was feeling lazy and tired so I decided to have drinks and dinner in the hotel restaurant Ellie's. I can say the martinis and tacos were both great!</p><p>The next morning I checked into <a href="https://www.thejouledallas.com/" target="_blank">The Joule Hotel</a>, where Forest and I also had a big beautiful corner room. Before she arrived I walked to the <a href="https://www.jfk.org/" target="_blank">Sixth Floor Museum</a> since she'd already been in the past. It was an easy walk since Dallas is flat as a pancake! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52737793054_00ae865bfc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="763" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52737793054_00ae865bfc_b.jpg" width="382" /></a></div>The museum is located on the 6th floor of what was the Texas School Book Depository, the location from where Lee Harvey Oswald shot and killed President Kennedy from one of the windows. It does a great job of laying out the history of the Kennedy presidency, the political worries of the time, and of course how the tragic day of November 22, 1963 unfolded.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52737960375_bab8058473_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52737960375_bab8058473_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>It was very odd to me to look out the same window, and down onto the road running through Dealey Plaza where Kennedy was killed. Thousands of people drive past the exact spot daily as it is a major thoroughfare in Dallas. </div><div><br /></div><div>I spent some time walking around the plaza afterwards, and to the JFK cenotaph which is just a few blocks away. Nearby is also the oldest remaining log cabin in this area, built in the 1840s by settlers to Dallas. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52737018682_caf41cffcb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52737018682_caf41cffcb_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I walked back to the Joule and met Forest at their casual restaurant, CBD. We had a great lunch here, so much so that we ate there twice in our 4 days! After lunch (the first time) one of the front desk people offered to take us across the street to see the sculpture <a href="https://www.thejouledallas.com/the-hotel/art-preservation/the-eye" target="_blank">Eye</a> up close. The Joule owns the piece and it was fun to be given access to the grass right in front (closed to the public even though we saw folks squeeze through the fence).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52737791429_f7b91bf4d0_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52737791429_f7b91bf4d0_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>During our stay we also visited the <a href="https://www.dma.org/" target="_blank">Dallas Museum of Art</a>. They have some impressive collections from all over the world, especially Latin American, but I think my favorites were the Design and Decorative Art collections and the Postwar Art collections. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52739300570_7669d80f87_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52739300570_7669d80f87_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>But most of the time in Dallas was spent catching up with my friend over lots of food and drinks. Here's the report...</div><div><br /></div><div>Drinking:</div><div><br /></div><div>We read that the views of Dallas were great from the rooftop bar of <a href="https://hide.bar/" target="_blank">Hide</a> in Knox Park. Not only was there nothing to get excited about as far as the view goes, but my cocktail was so bad I actually couldn't drink it. We left and went next door to <a href="https://www.hgsplyco.com/dallas" target="_blank">HG Sply Co</a> and had some very good margaritas and delicious nachos. A much better rooftop and views of the Dallas skyline in the distance.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52739377594_57a42efa0f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52739377594_57a42efa0f_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><p>The best rooftop bar by far was <a href="https://www.waterproofdallas.com/" target="_blank">Waterproof</a> at the Statler Hotel. WOW! It is a stunning location, right in the middle of the city, with a cool Miami vibe. To be honest we just had a couple of margaritas served in plastic cups but I loved the surroundings here so much!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52743928565_20d0fb941f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52743928565_20d0fb941f_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>The <a href="https://www.adolphus.com/restaurants-bars/the-french-room-bar" target="_blank">French Room Bar</a> at the Adolphus Hotel was a wonderful surprise. I just wanted to check out the hotel as it is quite historic and a real beauty! But then I saw the cocktail bar so we went in and had a couple. Gorgeous modern glassware, very interesting ingredients, fancy atmosphere... basically an A+ for me.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52738021628_982a120781_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52738021628_982a120781_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p><a href="https://www.casablancadtx.com/" target="_blank">Casablanca</a> is absolutely beautiful, but I thought the drinks were just ok. We didn't eat here but they have a full menu and the neighborhood of Bishop Arts seems very cute.</p><p><a href="https://midnightramblerbar.com/" target="_blank">Midnight Rambler</a> gets the most press of Dallas' cocktail bars, and as it is located in the Joule we had no problem finding it! Best to make reservations as it is very popular. When you check in you will be led downstairs where there are some good tunes and cocktails waiting. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52738992632_efbf6fc3f4_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52738992632_efbf6fc3f4_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>We were seated at the bar and had a great time with the bartender who walked us through the very fun menu of creative cocktails and also shared a lot of info about the different areas of Dallas and other places to check out. </p><p><a href="https://lasalmasrotas.com/" target="_blank">Las Almas Rotas</a> was high on my list and did not disappoint. Except, be warned, it is a bit of a haul to get to. This self-described shrine to the spirits of Mexico carries smaller, lesser known agave spirits. We had a few cocktails, I had a wonderful flight, and we also had some tasty bites. Fantastic spot!!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52741616062_dfdf560a21_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52741616062_dfdf560a21_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>I was also very excited to try out <a href="https://www.neonkittendallas.com/" target="_blank">Neon Kitten</a> for some Japanese inspired drinks and bites. This bar is in the Deep Ellum neighborhood which many people told us not to go to on account of being dangerous. It was busy with barhoppers and cruisers, but we didn't feel unsafe at all. Not sure if this area is just getting a bad rap or if it was warranted, YMMV.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52742620638_d20ea07e8e_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52742620638_d20ea07e8e_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>We ordered some Japanese tater tots and fried chicken bites and paired them with some pretty good Japanese spirit forward cocktails. </p><p>In the back of Neon Kitten is <a href="https://www.blackbirdsocietydallas.com/" target="_blank">Blackbird Society</a>, their Japanese inspired speakeasy. It's very tiny and very cute. You should definitely reserve if you want to check it out.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52741615827_f06717d0b7_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52741615827_f06717d0b7_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Eating: </p><p>We had a fun and delicious brunch at <a href="https://www.ellens.com/menu-downtown-dallas" target="_blank">Ellen's</a> in Dallas' downtown. This is the place to go to for old school southern comfort food. Almost all the tables seat 8-10 as the spot attracts a lot of families. And it's busy but they turn the tables pretty quick; we waited on the patio with drinks until our table was ready. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52740605582_1d79afb187_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52740605582_1d79afb187_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Our pimento cheese was excellent and I loved my chicken fried steak with sides!</p><p>As previously mentioned, we ate at <a href="https://www.thejouledallas.com/cbd-provisions" target="_blank">CBD</a> in the Joule twice! The first time I had a delicious fried chicken salad and the second time I really enjoyed their burger. Great spot even if you aren't staying at the hotel.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52743936935_bfa2e103ec_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52743936935_bfa2e103ec_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>We also had tacos for lunch at <a href="https://salsalimon.com/" target="_blank">Salsa Limon</a> one afternoon. This is fast and cheap and delicious! It was pretty much all locals on their lunch break when we were there. Also my margarita was the size of my head. Good stuff!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52739321990_f0cf8a7b5d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52739321990_f0cf8a7b5d_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>James Beard nominated <a href="https://restaurantbeatrice.com/" target="_blank">Restaurant Beatrice</a> is a little piece of Louisiana over in the Bishops Arts area. It's small and super pretty with linen tablecloths and fleur-de-lys wallpaper. Everything on the menu sounded amazing, I wish we could have ordered more to try! But my duck confit with truffled potato cracklins and housemade Luxardo cherry gastric was fantastic. Highly recommend.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52738021398_200dd8c859_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52738021398_200dd8c859_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>The Joule hosted us for dinner one evening at <a href="https://www.thejouledallas.com/sassetta" target="_blank">Sassetta</a>, which is their modern Italian restaurant. We had lovely cocktails to start and salads that were probably better to share than take solo as they were huge! My main of lobster spaghetti with pistachio and herbs was very luxurious!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52739870595_2d75a937f4_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52739870595_2d75a937f4_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div><p>Before leaving Texas, I took Amtrak down to visit Forest's parents in Mineola. Amtrak seems to consider schedules optional down here, the train was quite late both going and returning to Dallas, so keep that in mind if you have other things planned. But it was relaxing and cheap and the station in Mineola has a super cute museum on the history of the railroad in Texas. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52745823366_9d8dbd5bd4_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="800" height="243" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52745823366_9d8dbd5bd4_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>*Although we were hosted by <a href="https://www.thejouledallas.com/the-hotel/about-the-joule" target="_blank">The Joule Hotel</a>, all opinions are my own*</p><p>All photos of Dallas <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAy6yf" target="_blank">here</a>.</p></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-22592840075653765852023-04-27T13:20:00.001-07:002023-04-27T13:20:19.357-07:00Mendocino Virtual Office<p>Trip date: October 2022</p><p>The last time I went to Mendocino with my friend Aaron, it was during a pandemic, I had to drive 818 miles, and we ate outside on the deck at Michelin-starred Harbor House.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470955442_bfca94f7d5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="474" data-original-width="800" height="379" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470955442_bfca94f7d5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>This time I flew down to Santa Rosa, had a house rental with friends Aaron and Albert, and ate inside at the Harbor House... twice!</p><p>I started off in the Alaska Lounge, which is so great for breakfast and a mimosa before flying out of SeaTac. I had checked my bag because I was bringing some cocktail makings so I didn't even realize until I was onboard that this wasn't the small prop plane I was used to for the flight to STS. This time I was on on new Max 737-800 and was even upgraded to Premium! </p><p>STS airport is going through some major renovations and at the time I was there baggage claim was outside under a tent! Aaron and Albert met me to wait for my bag to come off a small truck and then we headed to <a href="https://www.untivineyards.com/" target="_blank">Unti Vineyard</a> for a tasting.</p><p>I've been a big fan of Unti for years but I hadn't visited in a long time. They have a lovely new-to-me tasting room; no more sipping in the warehouse! We grabbed a picnic table outside, as the guys had picked up sandwiches from <a href="https://www.loveskideli.com/" target="_blank">Loveski Deli</a> for our lunch, and had a delicious time eating, drinking, and catching up. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52434273833_daf4d94ff9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="577" data-original-width="800" height="289" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52434273833_daf4d94ff9_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>It was a 2-hour drive from Sonoma to our Airbnb in tiny town of Manchester. But most of it is through gorgeous redwoods! Once the redwoods end, the road twists and turns along the stunning Mendocino County coastline. It's truly such a beautiful drive!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471456676_6c4dc8eeff_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471456676_6c4dc8eeff_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>We had a big <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/23772876?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=e1b0413d-a1dc-4345-8d34-6a324c28eec0" target="_blank">3 bedroom, 2 bathroom house</a>, right on the cliffs overlooking the sea, with a full length deck and a hot tub. The house had a real 70s vibe (think paneling and bronze fixtures) but the views made up for the lack of modern decor. </p><p>Dinner that night was in the small town of Arena at <a href="https://izakaya-gama.com/" target="_blank">Izakaya Gama</a>, which is owned by some friend's of Aarons. Albert's and Aaron's friends from LA, Amy and Lena, met us and we basically ordered the entire menu. The food here is fantastic! If you are in the area, I'd say it is a do-not-miss. Trout sashimi, chawanmushi with the sweetest uni, karaage, and this amazing strawberry "shaved ice" dessert were highlights for me. But really, everything was awesome!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471739029_f03ee5494a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471739029_f03ee5494a_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Back out the house we tried out the hot tub and took in the incredible sky full of stars. It had been a great first day!</p><p>The next morning was Monday and as this was a working trip we were all on our laptops for a while. Just before lunch, Aaron, Amy, Lena, and I went for a great walk on Irish Beach. It's a beautiful stretch of sand and no one else was there, except for a sea lion!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471091046_e661622c63_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="800" height="301" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471091046_e661622c63_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>We all then had lunch at Harbor House! Except for Aaron and me it was everyone's first time and it was so fun to see their reactions to the beautiful location. <div><br /></div><div>It was a very good 4+ course lunch with my favorite dish being the black cod with fermented cucumber. It was so simple looking but the flavors were just perfect, relying on the quality of the fish which was exceptional. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471706769_dc2d608fc8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471706769_dc2d608fc8_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>After lunch we had our garden infusion (tea) on the deck and went for a nice walk around the grounds and down to the beach. It was a super fun and beautiful lunch!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471079419_5582a9db7c_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="714" data-original-width="800" height="357" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471079419_5582a9db7c_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>That evening I made us all cocktails for happy hour which we had outside on our deck. Aaron grilled up sausages for dinner and we had a big salad to go with. And the cherry on top was the most dramatic sunset! Such a fun day with everyone!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471389819_fe30898802_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471389819_fe30898802_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Amy and Lena were leaving the next day so I got up early (for me), took Aaron's car (with permission of course) and met them for a morning beach hike. This time we went to check out Bowling Ball Beach which I had seen lots of photos of. Unfortunately I hadn't read that you can only see these rocks at low tide. And it wasn't!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470361312_a7abce9f79_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470361312_a7abce9f79_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>We climbed down the hill and had a nice walk on Schooner Gulch State Beach instead. I wouldn't go out of my way to walk here, as it's pretty short, but it was great to see the girls again before they took off. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471319635_3a9107fde3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471319635_3a9107fde3_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Before I headed back to my office, aka the Airbnb, I stopped at the Point Arena Lighthouse. There's a small entry fee and luckily they took tap-to-pay as I only had my phone on me!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471307245_6a27a045b9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471307245_6a27a045b9_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>While waiting for my tour to start I went through the very interesting museum. I learned that this lighthouse was powered by a first order Fresnel Lens; the largest of its kind at over six feet in diameter and more than six tons in weight. It's not used anymore but it's still there to see.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470847206_3525de2142_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470847206_3525de2142_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>The museum has lots of info on shipwrecks in the area as well as destruction caused by earthquakes. If you aren't doing the tour you can still go through the museum and gift shop.</div><div><br /></div><div>It's 145 steps up to the top of the lighthouse; the tallest on the west coast. The views from up here are gorgeous and the gentleman who was working at the top pointed out the site of the last shipwreck as well as the erosion of the ground that the lighthouse is on. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471741669_6e82c1235f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471741669_6e82c1235f_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>The rest of the week went pretty much the same; morning coffee in the hottub followed by work and then afternoon hikes and outings. We cooked at home in the evenings and enjoyed the views.</div><div><br /></div><div>One afternoon Albert, Aaron, and I did a short hike out to Manchester Beach. The trail starts at the campground there and leads straight out on a dirt trail that turns into a sand trail. It was late in the day when we went and we were the only ones there! Stunning!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470814216_74b3c2052e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470814216_74b3c2052e_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>One afternoon we headed to the town of Mendocino; my first time! It was about a 45 minute drive up the gorgeous coast. <div><br /></div><div>We started with delicious smash burgers in the garden of <a href="https://www.cafebeaujolais.com/the-brickery" target="_blank">The Brickery</a> This is such a pretty spot! I hear good things about their dinner options too. Highly recommend a stop here.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470297647_c7a273e0dd_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470297647_c7a273e0dd_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>We wandered around town a bit and then did a short hike on the Headlands. It was such a gorgeous day and the views were awesome!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470790671_7f9908ae0a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="800" height="288" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470790671_7f9908ae0a_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>We made it a loop by walking back through town and past the "Angela Lansbury" house. Just as we were heading back to the car thick fog started rolling in. Within an hour there was zero visibility! <div><br /></div><div>Before heading home we drove out to visit our friend and talented potter, <a href="https://www.cliffgloverpottery.com/" target="_blank">Cliff Glover</a>. We had a lovely visit over some tea in his garden and then did a bit of shopping! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470556916_369150ec01_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="800" height="390" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470556916_369150ec01_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The next day we woke up to complete, white-out foggy conditions so after our morning work we visited <a href="https://sannyceramics.com/" target="_blank">Sanny Ceramics</a> and met Jason who is another very talented potter. No one's wallet was safe!!<div><br /></div><div>We stopped at the Elk Store for sandwiches and while eating outside in the chilly foggy weather we decided to head inland and go for a hike in the redwoods at Big Hendy Grove in Anderson Valley. This ended up being a wonderful plan as there was no fog and it was sunny and warm!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52469947687_bbce1a9ce0_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52469947687_bbce1a9ce0_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>Hiking amongst towering trees is one of my very favorite things. The smell of the forest, the way the tops sway, the silent majesty... I absolutely love it! </div><div><br /></div><div>Afterwards, we stopped in for a wine tasting at <a href="https://www.navarrowine.com/main.php" target="_blank">Navarro Winery</a> which has been producing wine since 1974. It was a lovely setting and there was no tasting fee!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52469075041_914d1ec347_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52469075041_914d1ec347_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Finally, the reason for the trip! Dinner at Michelin 2-star <a href="https://www.theharborhouseinn.com/" target="_blank">Harbor House</a>! Unfortunately the fog was still laying low on the coast completely hiding the lovely view. Fortunately dinner was so very good that we almost forgot about it. We were seated in the gorgeous wood paneled dining room, right in front of the fireplace. Absolutely perfect for the cool evening.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52454175685_893b9b6811_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="589" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52454175685_893b9b6811_b.jpg" width="295" /></a></div><br /><div>The tasting menu was 9 or so courses and Aaron and I did the alcohol pairings (wine, beer, saki) while Albert did the non-alcoholic pairing (juice and tea). </div><div><br /></div><div>Service and dishes here are both wonderful. Most courses were assembled tableside which was a great touch, and we saw some Cliff Glover pottery in use!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52453721091_041a9b32ee_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52453721091_041a9b32ee_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>It had been a fantastic week on the coast, even if we couldn't see it for the last two days, and this was a great way to end it. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52452563816_a5a05dd0e8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="722" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52452563816_a5a05dd0e8_b.jpg" width="361" /></a></div><br /><div>The next morning we packed up the car and checked out. As Albert was putting out the garbage he found a (live) racoon in the bin! YIKES! We left the lid open and called the property owners to make sure they would send someone over to release it!</div><div><br /></div><div>The guys were driving me back to the airport before heading to LA. We stopped in Healdsburg and did a little shopping around before having lunch at <a href="https://www.littlesainthealdsburg.com/" target="_blank">Little Saint</a>. The setting is super cute (it's in the old Shed space) but I wasn't overly excited for lunch as the resto is vegan. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470976712_93aaa5de09_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="648" data-original-width="800" height="324" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52470976712_93aaa5de09_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>But I have to say everything was very good! </div><div><br /></div><div>After we shared some ice cream from <a href="https://www.thenoblefolk.com/" target="_blank">Noble Folk</a> and then I did a quick wine tasting at <a href="https://www.liocowine.com/" target="_blank">Lioco</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div>And then the lovely week was over; time to say goodbye to Aaron, Albert, and CA. While I was doing a bit of work at the airport I was notified that I had been upgraded to First Class! A perfect ending.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471489076_133efdca3d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52471489076_133efdca3d_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div>All photos from this trip <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAe1cE" target="_blank">here</a>. </div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-32236247451011311942023-04-02T12:45:00.004-07:002023-06-13T13:42:46.892-07:00Lake Quinault Virtual Office <p>Trip date: February 2023</p><p>The Seattle Times had an <a href="https://www.seattletimes.com/life/travel/this-olympic-peninsula-lodge-runs-a-sweet-boarding-deal-in-winter/" target="_blank">article</a> about a BOGO deal that Lake Quinault was running and I thought that sounded like a great virtual office opportunity. Since I was looking for weeknights, there was actually quite a bit of availability. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735918478_e6f87915d3_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="800" height="295" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735918478_e6f87915d3_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>My friend Leslie lives out in Humptulips, which is just 30 minutes from Lake Quinault, so we made plans for me to come out for lunch before heading to the lodge. Washington had a fair amount of snow on the days leading up to my trip, I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to go as I drive a sports car! But that morning Leslie said the roads were mainly clear so I loaded up and drove the 3 hours from Seattle out to the Washington Peninsula. </p><p>Leslie's house actually has a gorgeous stained glass window in it that use to belong to the Lake Quinault Lodge! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735872840_f0035d9d12_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735872840_f0035d9d12_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>Her guy made us a delicious lunch and then we went out to explore her property. It's very beautiful out there on the banks of the Humptulip River. And her miniature donkeys, baby cow, and chickens could not be cuter! Check out Lucky the cow photobombing!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735711719_37cb54243c_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735711719_37cb54243c_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>By the time I left for the lodge it was snowing pretty hard, but the roads were still clear so I didn't have any problems. I got checked in and made my way to the lakeview <a href="https://www.olympicnationalparks.com/lodging/lake-quinault-lodge/" target="_blank">Fireplace Room</a>s, which are in an adjoining building to the main lodge. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735928098_d502fdb326_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735928098_d502fdb326_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>There is wifi throughout the property but you only get 30 minutes a day for free so I bought the upgraded package for $16, which included multiple devices and 5GB, since this would be my office for the next few days. The room didn't have a desk but I just moved some furniture so I could work on my laptop in front of the fireplace. My room also had a mini fridge, coffee maker, balcony with adirondacks, and fairly recently renovated bathroom with heated floors. </div><div><br /></div><div>When it was time for happy hour, I moved down to the Great Room and grabbed a seat in front of the enormous fireplace.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735860725_e62d57a380_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735860725_e62d57a380_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>This lodge was built in 1926, designed by a Seattle architect, and was completed in 53 days! I had camped nearby a long time ago, so had been inside briefly, but to relax in this gorgeous room with a cold martini in hand was truly a wonderful experience. </div><div><br /></div><div>I had dinner in the Roosevelt Room, named because the President visited here in 1937. The menu looked pretty good but the prices are ridiculously high! As I was still full from my late lunch I just had the Caesar salad with smoked salmon which was very good. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735923833_b844506bea_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735923833_b844506bea_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>I had brought some provisions with me for my room, so headed there after dinner for a glass of wine and to read my book. The lodge is very quiet which was excellent!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735696954_8ebb183cfe_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735696954_8ebb183cfe_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The next morning I worked in front of the fire with my coffee and the gorgeous view of the lake for a couple of hours before heading down to the dining room for breakfast. Even if your room doesn't have a view, the dining room is a wall of windows so you will not miss out. </div><div><br /></div><div>It had snowed lightly most of the night but the day was partly sunny and I was excited to go on a hike in the beautiful Olympic National Park! I had chosen the Gatton Creek Trail as it is one of the trails that goes right from the Lodge. I had wanted to do the Quinault Loop but it was mostly closed due to down trees.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734916077_2a0a140457_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734916077_2a0a140457_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Hiking in the Olympic rain forest is soooo gorgeous! The moss is 100 shades of green and the trees reach tall to the sky. There was no one on on the trail that morning so the forest was quiet and very peaceful. There was just a bit of snow on the trail and I thought it was beautiful!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734915447_fe2270482a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734915447_fe2270482a_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>But almost as soon as I crossed the bridge at Falls Creek the snow on the path was much deeper. I mean it was still just up to my shoelaces but I was surprised. The trail only had an 800 foot elevation rise but as I went up the snow was deeper; completely obscuring the trail. </div><div><br /></div><div>I kept expecting it to clear, not sure why! But at the ½ way point the snow was up to my ankles and I was also having to duck under branches laden with snow. Luckily someone else had hiked the trail the day before and since it hadn't snowed much I could still see their footprints. It was the only way I was able to stay on the course! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734837120_2ac5f4694a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734837120_2ac5f4694a_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>This "easy" hike ended up being a real slog! And because no one else was around, and I had spotted some cougar tracks, I was also a tad nervous and was whistling non-stop in order to give any kitties warning of my approach. <div><br /></div><div>As I came down from the modest elevation the trail was fine and the surrounding trees were stunningly draped in moss again instead of snow.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734403991_583e61b682_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734403991_583e61b682_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div>By the time I made it to Rain Forest Village I was exhausted and my touque and puffer were soaked. Luckily my new waterproof hikers did their job and my feet were dry and toasty. </div><div><br /></div><div>I stopped by the 1,000+ year old "World's Largest Sitka Spruce", which has lost its top and is looking pretty bad compared to the last time I saw it, and then walked along South Shore Drive back to the lodge. 5 ½ miles later I was done!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52733862672_32ac7aa2a6_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52733862672_32ac7aa2a6_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The lodge doesn't serve lunch on weekdays in the off-season so I changed into dry clothes, grabbed my laptop, and headed to the <a href="http://www.quinaultrainforest.com/Quinault-River-Village-Internet-Cafe.html" target="_blank">Quinault Internet Cafe</a> in nearby Amanda Park. I was able to get some work done and have a pretty decent taco salad! Back at the lodge I worked for the rest of the afternoon in front of my fireplace. </div><div><br /></div><div>Before heading to the Great Room for a martini that evening, I walked out to the lakeshore to take in the view of the setting sun. The light was just incredible!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52733855302_1e77352ce1_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52733855302_1e77352ce1_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Sitting around the fire, the other guests were very talkative, kinda like when you are on a cruise! 😆 Everyone was giving each other advise on what to do and see, as well as talking about all their prior visits to the lodge. And everyone complained about the dining room prices! I was happy just to sip my drink and listen. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52733851107_3c20d13338_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52733851107_3c20d13338_b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I had some excellent (and still completely overpriced) fish and chips in the restaurant that night before heading back to my room. There aren't a lot of other options in the area, especially being off-season, but next time I'll try the Salmon House restaurant, which is just a short drive away. </div><div><br /></div><div>On my last day I had arranged a late checkout, so I spent the morning working and then hit the dining room right before they finished their breakfast service for my "brunch". </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734370346_3238bbe51f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734370346_3238bbe51f_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>I had such a nice time at the lodge and will definitely take advantage of the BOGO again, maybe this fall. It's such a beautiful property and they also have an indoor pool which I didn't have time to check out!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734785475_a61bfd0062_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734785475_a61bfd0062_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div>Before driving home, I followed South Shore Drive out to Merriman Falls. The 40 foot falls are right next to the road so no hiking required to view.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735943163_6d046fd42e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735943163_6d046fd42e_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>From here I drove another 5 ½ miles to Bunch Falls; South Shore Drive turns into a dirt road out here,which was quite slushy. I hadn't realized how far these falls were so I was a little concerned driving my sporty car on the icy road with not another car around. But passing through this section of forest was very pretty.<br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735719064_5c8703125a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735719064_5c8703125a_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Bunch Falls are right by the Olympic National Park sign and before you get to the bridge which takes you to North Shore Drive. As the roads out here were pretty messy, doing the Lake Drive Loop was not an option. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735724869_72e8ed1d4d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735724869_72e8ed1d4d_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>It was time to hit the road and get back to Seattle. As I drove out, next to the river, I slammed on my brakes when I spotted the largest bald eagle I've ever seen, sitting high in a bare tree. I mean I have seen hundreds of bald eagles and this one's size really shocked me!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735885435_491f5e2ced_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52735885435_491f5e2ced_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>As I got back into my car I spotted another huge one down the road! And on the drive out, one more! No matter how many times I see one I'm always in awe!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734948967_be270abcc5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734948967_be270abcc5_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Lake Quinault offers the BOGO deal yearly October thru March. <div><br /><div>All Lake Quinault photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAyadX" target="_blank">here</a>. <br /><div><br /></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-10438465425451894892023-03-26T14:37:00.000-07:002023-12-03T11:45:57.556-08:00Up Close to Greenland Glaciers and Icebergs<p>Trip date: July 2022</p><p>During our week in Greenland we did two seperate boat tours. The first we booked thru Disko Line for a full day trip to <a href="https://diskolineexplorer.com/en/boat-trips/day-trip-eqi/" target="_blank">Eqip Sermia</a>. We were picked up at the Hotel Arctic, an easy walk from our apartment in Ilulissat, and taken to the marina. The boat was pretty large, lots of seating below, and lots of room to move around up top. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206490630_21ff0a038e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="403" data-original-width="800" height="323" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206490630_21ff0a038e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>It was an absolutely gorgeous day for this trip, good thing as it was 3 ½ hours up to the glacier! On the way we passed so many icebergs! Most were pretty small, being July and being a bit far from the glacier they had come off of. But we did pass a few massive ones! Icebergs are a bit like clouds in that you can play "what does that one look like to you?" A swan? A seal?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205985006_8e5270ca46_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205985006_8e5270ca46_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Heading north, farther into Disko Bay, we passed the Oqaatsut settlement. Only 29 people live here full time, and some Greenlanders have summer cabins here. Incredibly remote with no roads!<br /><p>We also passed a couple of partially frozen waterfalls. Always such a beautiful site!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205979871_638e4d7e7b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205979871_638e4d7e7b_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>We were traveling about 50 miles north of Ilulissat and it got significantly cooler as we neared the glacier. Eqip Sermia is called the calving glacier and is one of the most active in all of Greenland, you are pretty much guaranteed to see ice falling off!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52771259374_377f48928a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="216" data-original-width="800" height="173" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52771259374_377f48928a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The glacier is about 3 miles wide and is an impressive sight on its own. But when a hunk of ice calves off it makes a loud cracking sound and a splash when it hits the water. The boat keeps a good distance so there isn't any danger. </p><p>Our boat stayed in front of the glacier for 2 hours, which sounds like a lot of time, but it was great! They served lunch during this time, and as Forest and I happened to be sitting on the glacier side of the boat, so we had a lovely view as we ate. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204964822_56d91c1fdc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204964822_56d91c1fdc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The lunch was served in super cute tin bento-style boxes and was very Danish; potato salad, meatballs, and salad of cabbage and pickled vegetables. When we booked, the site said you could bring your own beverages so we put a bottle of rosé in an insulated Corkcicle canteen. But it seemed like maybe they didn't mean wine so we were glad that you couldn't tell what was in our bottle! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205991383_14469bd3aa_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205991383_14469bd3aa_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The onboard guide told us about the glacier and showed us some photos and graphs depicting how much it has receded over the years. It was shocking to me, and really sad. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205972941_3f55b170ec_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205972941_3f55b170ec_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>When we left the glacier the boat made a stop at <a href="https://worldofgreenland.com/en/glacier-lodge-eqi/" target="_blank">Glacier Lodge Eqi</a> to let off some passengers who were checking in there. The bungalows here look straight out onto the glacier so you can watch for calving ice all day long if you like! There are also a couple of cool hikes you can take to get closer. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773058954_9bccc9ddcc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="674" data-original-width="800" height="539" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52773058954_9bccc9ddcc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>They served coffee and little cakes on the way back, and most of us spent the time outside in the sun watching for whales. I think a couple of people thought they saw some but we didn't. We did pass some buoys which the guide explained were deep fishing lines for halibut. These long line systems are set with 5,000 hooks! </p><p>Back in Ilulissat, the transfer vans were waiting at the marina to take us to the Hotel Arctic. It had been a great day!</p><p>When we stayed at the Ilimanaq Lodge, we booked an Iceberg Sightseeing cruise through <a href="https://worldofgreenland.com/en/ilulissat/sommerudflugter/#isfjordssejlads" target="_blank">World of Greenland</a>. You'll see in the pictures on their site that the boat looks medium sized and includes coffee. Our trip cost a little less and we were on a small outboard motor craft. We were also the only ones who had signed up for the tour, so it was just us, our tour guides from the <a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/michelin-stars-in-greenland.html" target="_blank">Settlement Walk</a>, and Captain Frank. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206144240_9867b3af9b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206144240_9867b3af9b_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>As soon as we headed out into Disko Bay we spotted 2 whales! They were pretty close and the captain stopped the boat so we could watch for a while. We got to see a few whale tails but then it was time for the icebergs!</p><p>Our small boat turned directly into the iceflow that breaks off of the Ilulissat Glacier. There wasn't another boat around, the only sound was of the water, the crack of ice falling off the bergs, and the cry of flying birds. It was spectacular!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205625626_83d8f76189_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205625626_83d8f76189_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>And unlike the smaller glaciers we saw on our big day trip cruise, these didn't look like animals, they were huge and architectural! </p><p>We were able to get so close to some of the smaller ones, it was amazing to peer into the clear water and get just a small idea of how deep these bergs go! They say that 90% of an iceberg is underwater!!!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204615437_41da4ef906_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204615437_41da4ef906_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Captain Frank stopped the boat and showed us on a map the enormity of the icefjord. We felt very tiny amidst these floating giants.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205875229_034a7576d5_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205875229_034a7576d5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Our guide fished out a tiny berg and cracked it into a few manageable pieces for Forest and I to taste. It was crystal clear and so pure. They estimate that this icefjord is 250,000 years old, so god only knows how old that ice that we ate was!!<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205597851_13068eabdb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="455" data-original-width="800" height="365" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205597851_13068eabdb_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>We spent over an hour slowly motoring through this city of ice before we came upon a very impressive half dome iceberg and noticed some ice randomly falling from the ceiling of it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205862734_7923053a16_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205862734_7923053a16_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Within a few minutes the entire dome collapsed right in front of us! We were all amazed, even the captain and the guides!! It's such a rare thing to witness, we were all in shock! And crazily enough I just happened to be filming it!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OtZ4xahnm6Q" width="320" youtube-src-id="OtZ4xahnm6Q"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div>Huge waves from calving glaciers or collapsing icebergs can be extremely dangerous for boats, the Greenlanders call them tsunamis, and you can hear me saying "here comes the tsunami!". You can also hear the guide saying "it's a little dangerous!". But Captain Frank had moved us backwards, away from a direct wave if it came, and after the show we motored safely out of the icefjord. </div><div><br /></div><div>What an ending to an awesome tour! </div><div><br /></div><div>Although both of these tours were incredible, if you are heading to Greenland I would say that the Iceberg Sightseeing tour is the do-not-miss experience. And not just because we witnessed the spectacular collapse, but because you get to be so close and see such a variety. It's also takes much less time. If you do the Eqi Glacier trip, I'd personally stay out at that lodge for a night or two!</div><div><p>Eqi Glacier photos are a part of <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjA26CM" target="_blank">this set</a>.</p><p>Iceberg sightseeing photos are a part of <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAcaAh" target="_blank">this set.</a></p><p class="p1" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></p><p class="p2" style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p class="p3" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/first-stop-iceland.html"><span style="font-family: times;">First Stop Iceland</span></a></p><p class="p3" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/7569226984641278838/5876751193669679890#"><span style="font-family: times;">Exploring Ilulissat Greenland</span></a></span></p><p class="p3" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/7569226984641278838/6692415021532342285#"><span style="font-family: times;">Michelin Stars in Greenland</span></a></span></p></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-58767511936696798902023-03-19T15:03:00.003-07:002023-12-03T11:48:51.500-08:00Michelin Stars in Greenland<p>Trip date: July 2022</p><p>Even though I had wanted to go to Greenland for a long time, this trip really came about because of a pop-up! The Faroese restaurant <a href="https://koks.fo/" target="_blank">KOKS</a>, which I had had the <a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2020/07/eat-drink-sleep-on-faroe-islands.html" target="_blank">pleasure of dining </a>at with my friend Aaron, decided to move to the beautiful<a href="https://worldofgreenland.com/en/ilimanaq-lodge/" target="_blank"> Ilimanaq Lodge</a> in Greenland while their new restaurant in Tórshavn is being built. When I saw this on Instagram I immediately texted my friend <a href="https://52martinis.com/" target="_blank">Forest</a> in Paris and asked if she wanted to meet for dinner in Greenland!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52755955669_2776017bec_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="298" data-original-width="800" height="238" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52755955669_2776017bec_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I'll say right off the bat that this was not an easy reservation to book! Ilimanaq is a tiny village only accessible by boat (or sled dog in the winter) with no other places to stay besides the lodge. There are only 30 seats per night and there are also only 15 cabins. It was like piecing together a puzzle to get the dinner and cabin booked, the flights into Greenland, since they don't go every day, and the transfer boat to take us from Ilulissat to Ilimanaq. Similarly to when I went to the glorious <a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2018/02/welcome-to-fantasy-island.html" target="_blank">Hayman Island</a>, this transfer cost 600 DKK each way/ each person. And it wasn't fancy like the yacht in Australia! So just to get there and back was $170. </p><p>This season it looks like the cabin, dinner, and boat transfers are all included for 8,700 DKK per person.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204891652_f520aa0ab9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204891652_f520aa0ab9_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The boat transfer is generally 30 minutes but as it goes right thru the ice flow from the Ilulissat Icefjord it can take up to 2 hours if the ice is heavy. It was a spectacular ride, and loud! You could hear the smaller ice hitting the hull of the boat as we zoomed past large icebergs.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205903881_7b8839d89d_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205903881_7b8839d89d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>There was one other couple on our boat and it turned out they were from the same arrondissement in Paris as Forest. Small world indeed!</p><p>Luckily we took the advice given by the lodge to only bring an overnight bag, as the transfer boat was small and getting on and off it was a scramble. We had left our suitcases at the Hotel Icefiord and arranged for the Hotel Arctic to pick them up as that is where we would be headed upon our return. </p><p>We arrived at the tiny settlement village, greeted by the lodge staff, and made our way to the check-in building which is one of the oldest buildings in town; originally built in the 1700s by the colony founder Paul Egede. Inside it is now quite <i>hygge</i>!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206390710_10657cc080_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206390710_10657cc080_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Once checked in we made our way to Bungalow #9 via a boardwalk. WOW! Each of the 15 A-frames sits on the edge of a cliff and has full ocean views. Ours was a standard cabin so we were in the inlet, the superior one's look straight out.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205905913_d0ddf73524_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205905913_d0ddf73524_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>We walked onto the large deck, outfitted with sealskin lounge chairs, and entered the very Danish designed living room. So pretty! Upstairs there were two beds looking out to the sea (and no blinds! LOL!) The lodge was built in 2017 with sustainability in mind; all of the cabins have solar panels for power and the lodge uses an electric cart to transfer luggage.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204869147_4c6868cfc2_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204869147_4c6868cfc2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><p>The weather was just glorious, and we had bought a cold bottle of white wine from reception, so we spent the time before dinner sitting on our deck, enjoying the sun and watching the icebergs drift by. It wasn't long before we spotted a whale and her baby! We must have watched them for 30+ minutes, it was sooooo great!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204868847_de77187650_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204868847_de77187650_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>When it was time for dinner we walked the short way back to where reception was. KOKS was housed in the other oldest building, this one originally the home of settler Egede. Head chef Poul Andrias Ziska and his team greeted us as we walked in which was very fun!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204861212_423e758792_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204861212_423e758792_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>We were seated in a very pretty little room with just 3 other tables. The other rooms of the house had the other diners. The sun was streaming in and we were all just steps from the ocean and the icebergs drifting by. Magical!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205872576_ae05fffcec_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205872576_ae05fffcec_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>We chose to have the wine pairings with our 20-dish dinner, which was an additional 3,200 DKK total; there is also a juice tasting available. They started us off with a lovely champagne to accompany a trio of 1-bite starters: mattak (whale blubber) wrapped in a "taco" of wild greens, seal blood tartelette with mussel and seaweed, and this gorgeous Greenlandic halibut with horseradish and dill.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205872876_71744c4d69_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205872876_71744c4d69_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />As I had eaten at KOKS before, I knew that they serve hyper-local ingredients. And since we had already spent 3 days exploring Greenland, we knew that very little grows here so we weren't surprised by the use of whale and seal. But obviously that might not be for everyone. From the KOKS website "due to our geographical location in the North Atlantic, we do not have access to a broad variety of vegetables for a good part of the year. Therefore, it is not possible for us to create a vegetarian or vegan tasting menu."<p></p><p>All the dishes were small, most just a bite or two, which is perfect for me. There were a handful of lovely seafood dishes using shrimp, scallops, snow crab, and salmon. This scallop and caviar dish was wonderful!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206367110_54583b1651_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206367110_54583b1651_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>After the seafood dishes we had a series of land proteins including muskox, reindeer, and ptarmigan which is a type of cold region grouse. The presentation was a bit shocking but the meat was delicious!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204849422_689b37446e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204849422_689b37446e_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Special knives, inlaid with mother of pearl images of whaling boats, were brought out for our bowhead whale course. The meat surprised me by being very gamey, not what I expected. It wasn't my favorite.</p><p>We took a little break before dessert and stepped outside for some fresh air. And of course full sunshine at 10:45pm!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208181096_697d158d83_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208181096_697d158d83_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Dessert consisted of 4 small bites, all very unique both in presentation and ingredients. Limpet (small sea snails) made into a sweet cream and served in their shells, looked and tasted a bit like caramel. Fermented garlic fudge, was indeed fudgy! The roasted bladderwrack cake was the only thing I actively disliked from the entire meal, it's a type of algae. And the stone bramble and blood meringues seemed too pretty (and delicious) to be made of blood!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208492349_6123c96826_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="638" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208492349_6123c96826_b.jpg" width="510" /></a></div>We also had some lovely Calvados after, so not <i>everything </i>was local!</div><div><br /></div><div>It was a super unique meal and did not feel gimmicky but more an education about the ingredients and then elevated as you would expect at any Michelin starred restaurant. I am super happy to have been able to experience KOKS in both the Faroe Islands and in Greenland. </div><div><br /></div><div>We headed back to our cabin just before midnight and spotted the whales again! We stayed up way too late watching them and having a nightcap. And also it is very hard to go to bed when the sun is up!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204684357_f18b1a4e8f_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204684357_f18b1a4e8f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The next morning we caught the tail end of breakfast in another of the lodge's buildings and then went on a settlement walk (an additional charge). Our guide was probably about 20 and was born and raised in the village. There are only 50 people who call Ilimanaq home and the new tourism that the lodge brings was directly responsible for him having this job. His friend was from another area of Greenland but was there training to be a guide also. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206149630_91a1e8b183_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206149630_91a1e8b183_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />It was a great little walk and interesting to learn a bit about the village. We learned that Ilimanaq was once a major fish processing center but the company moved to a larger city where they had access to more employees. Since towns are only accessible by boat or dogsled, no one could commute so most people were sadly out of work. </div><div><br /></div><div>There is a post office and grocery store but in the winter supplies get very low so people will trade things out of their own pantry. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206157450_332104761a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206157450_332104761a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Our guide's grandmother was the pastor of the tiny village church until she passed, he was very proud of her and pointed out her house as well as his. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206385970_605fefe221_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="800" height="459" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206385970_605fefe221_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>After our walk we had lunch back at the lodge's main room, which is available as an add-on. We were very disappointed in this! 2 types of dried whale, 2 types of dried halibut, and dried reindeer. Basically a meal of jerky. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204640372_4500dd9cdb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204640372_4500dd9cdb_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>I saw 2 women at the next table having lovely shrimp smorrebrod and figured that we had the appetizer and that the shrimp was the main. But when I asked our waitress she let me know that the shrimp was the vegetarian option! 🤯</div><div><br /></div><div>When we went to board the transfer boat back to Ilulissat I noticed our captain on his knees on the dock reaching into the water and asked what he was doing. He told me he was getting dinner for the night and pointed to a bucket that had sea urchin he had harvested right from the dock!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205572726_b8319cf910_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205572726_b8319cf910_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>Our trip back was just as gorgeous as the ride out there. The icebergs are just so amazing!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205567546_ded4942e45_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205567546_ded4942e45_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>It was such an amazing overnight experience at Ilimanaq. It's expensive for sure but I'm so happy that I had a chance to go! Like nothing I've ever experienced before. KOKS is doing service there for 2023 also so if you are interested you can check into the booking <a href="https://table.verk.fo/GistOgVist/KOKS/?culture=en-GB&clearCache=true" target="_blank">here</a>. I also had friends randomly in Greenland a few weeks after I was there and they were able to book just dinner and had a transfer boat back the same night.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205572816_39ca66c423_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205572816_39ca66c423_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div>Pro tip: Ilimanaq Lodge is proudly wifi-free so this is not the place for your remote work trip!</div><div><p>All photos of Ilimanaq <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAcaAh" target="_blank">here</a>. </p><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;">Other posts from this trip:</div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/first-stop-iceland.html" style="color: #1177cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">First Stop Iceland</a></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/exploring-ilulissat-greenland.html" target="_blank">Exploring Ilulissat Greenland</a><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"><p class="p1" style="color: #dca10d; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/up-close-to-greenland-glaciers-and.html">Up Close to Greenland Glaciers and Icebergs</a></span></p></div><p><br /></p></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-76802815324634602832023-03-05T14:29:00.003-08:002023-12-03T11:47:03.501-08:00Exploring Ilulissat, Greenland<p>Trip date: July 2022</p><p>I met my friend Forest in the Reykjavik airport as she had just flown in from Paris. We sat and had a few drinks and a snack before boarding our flight to Ilulissat, Greenland. I knew Air Iceland Connect was a regional carrier, under the parent of Icelandair, but I didn't realize the plane would be a tiny prop plane! I'm such a nervous flyer anyway, and when I saw there were just 10 rows, I asked the flight attendant if we were all going to fit!</p><p>Luckily we all did, barely! Our seats were in row 9, so truly the back of the bus. There was actually a beverage service and the flight attendant handed out decent pretzel sandwiches. Luckily I was distracted by the gorgeous scenery on the 3 hour flight.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206164073_aeda55d1be_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206164073_aeda55d1be_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>I was soooo excited to be going to Greenland, I'd wanted to go for a very long time and even had booked a trip years ago that I had to cancel. It wasn't a new country for me (Greenland is owned by Denmark) but Ilulissat is known as "the city of icebergs" and is 180 miles north of the arctic circle which is the farthest north I've been (before that I had visited <a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/search/label/%C3%84k%C3%A4slompolo" target="_blank">Akaslompolo</a> which is 110 miles north). I was also excited to experience true Midnight Sun. I'd been to Iceland and Sweden in the summer before, where the sun didn't set until 2 or 3am, but in Ilulissat the sun does not set at all from May 20th to July 20th! No sunrise, no sunset.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208418559_8d7cd5c205_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="370" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208418559_8d7cd5c205_b.jpg" width="296" /></a></div>We landed at the tiny airport on the world's largest island, watched while a tractor loaded up our luggage, and met our shuttle driver from the <a href="https://hotelicefiord.com/" target="_blank">Hotel Icefiord</a> for our ride into town. We had rented an apartment from the hotel but still had to check in there first. No worries as we grabbed a glass of wine and sat outside on their terrace for our first views of Greenland... it was spectacular!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206134901_380ef27924_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206134901_380ef27924_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>When we were ready to go to our apartment we asked for some ice and they told us it was from the icebergs! The drive to our apartment was a bit further then we had expected, it was over by the Hotel Arctic, and we were surprised by the shared kitchen and how sparse our room was. But we had a big terrace overlooking Disko Bay & the Jakobshavn glacier, the makings for martinis, and plenty of snacks. We were happy campers!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205118017_368c5db92b_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="549" data-original-width="800" height="440" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205118017_368c5db92b_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>The next morning we walked about 30 minutes into town, past the main marina, on the side of the road.<div> <div>The town of Ilulissat is <i>the</i> place you go for icebergs, in fact that is what the name means. This is the town where Arctic explorer Knud Rasmussen was born. It's a small town, with just 4,500 people and about 2,500 sled dogs. Greenland doesn't have any roads connecting the towns so you go by dogsled in the winter or boat in the summer. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206145923_7039642c27_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="476" data-original-width="800" height="381" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206145923_7039642c27_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>We made our way out to the old power plant and picked up the Yellow Route hiking trail. The setting is just so gorgeous! I could not get over how clear the water was; how you could get a glimpse of how deep these icebergs went. And as we followed the trail around a curve, we could not believe how face-to-face we were with the Jakobshavn glacier!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205026412_22765f8ac7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205026412_22765f8ac7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>You may be familiar with this glacier without even knowing it as it was the source of the iceberg that sank the Titanic. But that was just the most famous berg, around 4 billion tons of ice come off this glacier! The glacier is about 40 miles long and when cracks form, or pieces cleave, the sounds that come from it are amazing!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206531670_98a3b1167e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206531670_98a3b1167e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>It was interesting to get a close look at the groundscape as well. It's really just rock, no soil, and some lichen/moss and tiny wildflowers. Since there isn't any soil, water just sits on the rocks attracting mosquitos the size of bumblebees. They are no joke and I highly recommend packing a head net!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206527390_7f1db1af50_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206527390_7f1db1af50_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div>This lack of soil was even more interesting when we came upon the cemetery. We learned later that the deceased are wrapped as mummies and then are covered with rocks. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206039788_9ee6f1644e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206039788_9ee6f1644e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div>We followed the Yellow Route all the way around where it met up with the Blue Trail and then proceeded back into town, it was about 6 miles total.</div><div><br /></div><div><div><div><div>Another day we hiked part of the Blue Route to Sermermiut. This is a much shorter and much easier trail as most of it is a boardwalk that starts near the heliport and the Isfjord Center. On the outskirts of town, before arriving at the trail, we passed what we had started referring to as "dog town" as all of the sled dogs in town were kenneled here. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FgUKeviJzFY" width="320" youtube-src-id="FgUKeviJzFY"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>It's a little unnerving at first; dogs everywhere, most barking, some sleeping, but mainly just out in the elements. The Greenlandic Sled Dog aren't pets, they are working animals and similar to Icelandic horses, they are a specific breed and other dogs are not allowed in Greenland in order to keep the breed pure. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206512545_19dbc392a7_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206512545_19dbc392a7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>On this day we saw a woman coming out of "dog town" and we said hello and asked if we could ask her some questions about the dogs. She was super nice and excitingly asked if we wanted to see her puppies. Uh, YES!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205942886_58e3274b45_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205942886_58e3274b45_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>We followed her out to her kennels as she told us about her dogs. Turns out she is also a teacher in the town. The dogs went crazy when they saw her arriving back so soon; I'm sure they expected 2nd dinner! She called the momma dog out of her house and gave her some extra food to keep her busy while we held the fuzziest, cutest pups!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206440910_f9b1d675c4_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206440910_f9b1d675c4_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>What an awesome experience that was! Pro tip- talk to strangers! </div><div><br /></div><div>Onto the trail we continued and within minutes the Jakobshavn Glacier was in clear view. It's such a spectacular sight!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206432150_9f938f8c0a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206432150_9f938f8c0a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>The boardwalk is great as it keeps everyone off the tundra, the small shrubs doing all they can in the very short growing period that they have. This area is also the site of the Sermermiut archaeological site, an ancient Inuit settlement, which is protected only by people staying on the boardwalk.</div><div><br /></div><div>The accessible trail ends at the base of a small hill. We climbed up over some rocks to this amazing lookout!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205937713_57e89cddd6_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205937713_57e89cddd6_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>What a sight! And the sounds of the ice cracking! Amazing! We sat up there for a while just taking it all in; we were so lucky with the sun and warm weather. It was absolutely perfect.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you are planning on hiking these routes in Ilulissat, I highly recommend doing the yellow first and then the blue. I think this order gives you the views in an "order" that you would most appreciate! We did this section as an out-and-back, but the Blue Route continues along for a couple miles as a loop if you want a longer hike. </div><div><br /></div><div>We made our way back to town and to the terrace of the Inuit Cafe. The smoked halibut sandwich and a local beer where both delicious! Halibut is about 80+% of Greenland's export income!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204899287_300177debc_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204899287_300177debc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>As we walked around town, we stopped into a very nice shop that was selling a lot of goods made of sealskin. As in many arctic regions, seal is still widely hunted in Greenland; there are said to be around 7 million seals found around the country. When seals are hunted (by rifle) every part of the seal is used. In fact the national dish of Greenland is Suaasat, a stew made from seal, and sealskin is the main source of income for many hunters. The skins make warm and almost waterproof clothing items.</div><div><br /></div><div>When I was in the shop and asking about some of the products, a woman who was working asked if I was from the US and when I said yes, she let me know that sealskin was not allowed in the US. I thought that was really nice of her and not something that she had to do.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Another place we ate lunch at was Cafe Iluliaq, it's a popular place, being right in the center of town. We sat outside in the sun; I had a musk ox burger (an Arctic native animal) and a local beer. The burger was good but very gamey. The beer was delicious and also $15 for a pint! </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205581233_a02b364b55_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="594" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205581233_a02b364b55_b.jpg" width="475" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Greenland doesn't have a lot of overnight tourists yet, most people that visit are from the cruise ships. Not like Carnival cruises, more like posh NatGeo. In talking with some locals they mentioned that the cruise ships are actually detrimental to their economy as people don't really spend money on shore. Most overnight tourists tend to be Danish since it's easy for them to fly there and they have the financial means. Most of the seasonal workers are also Danish college students. </div><div><br /></div><div>The thing about being on an island in the middle of the Arctic Ocean is that the price of everything (if you can even get what you want) is very high. We went into a grocery store after lunch and it was quite interesting to see things like propane tanks mixed alongside milk.</div><div><br /></div><div>There aren't a lot of places to eat and drink in Ilulissat in the evenings so one night we decided to stay in, and dine al fresco on our balcony as the weather was incredible! Full sun at 8pm, full sun at 2am!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206505255_92f582edea_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206505255_92f582edea_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>I had picked up these dried lamb instant meals in Reykjavik and they were tasty! Just add hot water and don your Viking cap!</div><div><br /></div><div>We did have a lovely dinner at the Hotel Icefiord restaurant one evening. It started off rocky however as we had asked them to send a taxi to pick us up but it never arrived. After waiting for 1-hour while they unsuccessfully tried to find another, they finally picked us up themselves. It was frustrating but also interesting, being someplace that is just starting to be a tourist destination.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206450785_b6863d7d78_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206450785_b6863d7d78_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Our dinner was very good. They sent some lovely amuse of tapioca chips to start us off. I had a wonderful snow crab bisque and a reindeer filet. And we even had a cheese plate for dessert. </div><div><br /></div><div>And of course you couldn't beat the view at 11pm!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205947241_7681afdb7e_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205947241_7681afdb7e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div></div><div>The next day after coming back from an overnight at the <a href="https://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/michelin-stars-in-greenland.html" target="_blank">Ilimanaq Lodge</a> we checked into the <a href="https://hotelarctic.com/en/" target="_blank">Hotel Arctic</a>, described as the world's northernmost four-star hotel. Forest had booked us into The Puisi Junior Suite which is the nicest room at the hotel and has a living room area with huge windows and a full view of the glacier. It was a fantastic last stop on our trip; we'd be leaving the next day. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52209142322_8fa8d2b5f4_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52209142322_8fa8d2b5f4_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>This room was also the only that had proper curtains to block out the sunlight. I had heard that Greenlanders embrace the months of midnight sun since they have many months without it. I'm sure that more overnight tourism will result in more curtains but I was very happy to have a proper eye mask to sleep with!</div><div><br /></div><div>We enjoyed some cocktails outside on the hotel's huge deck and then had a very good dinner at their casual spot Brassier Ulo. The snow crab and halibut were absolutely delicious! The hotel has a fine dining restaurant as well but it was closed when we were there for renovations I believe. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205280913_8b0163cbbb_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205280913_8b0163cbbb_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>After dinner we headed back to our room to finish our wine and stayed up way too late as the view was just so gorgeous and we didn't want this trip to end. In the morning we had a transfer to the airport via the hotel and waited for our flight in the tiny 2-gate airport.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52210145406_ec3f2bcc20_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52210145406_ec3f2bcc20_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Once onboard our flight attendant announced that we would be stopping to fuel up. Hu? Aren't we at an airport? No idea why, but we made a stop in the middle of Greenland for fuel. When the small plane landed, the captain got out and left the door open and the flight attendant directed us to all unbuckle our seatbelts until fueling had finished. That doesn't leave you with the safest feeling! I'm assuming that was all in case there was a fuel explosion and we needed to make a dash for it!</div><div><br /></div><div>That refueling stop added over an hour to our flight time which made me late for my connecting flight out of Reykjavik. I won't review all the details of how that clusterfuck went, but suffice to say Icelandair held the plane for me and I ran through the airport in order to make it home. Pretty sure they only did that as I was Saga Class. </div><div><br /></div><div>All photos of Ilulissat Greenland <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjA26CM" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: times;">Other posts from this trip:</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/02/first-stop-iceland.html" style="color: #1177cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: times;">First Stop Iceland</span></a></div></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/michelin-stars-in-greenland.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: times;">Michelin Stars in Greenland</span></a></div></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><p class="p1" style="color: #dca10d; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: times; text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/up-close-to-greenland-glaciers-and.html">Up Close to Greenland Glaciers and Icebergs</a></span></p></div><div><br /></div><div><div><div><div><br /><div><br /><div><br /><p><br /></p></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7569226984641278838.post-66924150215323422852023-02-25T17:45:00.002-08:002023-03-26T17:54:41.592-07:00First Stop, Iceland<p>Trip date: June 2022</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206396696_ae09986dc6_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206396696_ae09986dc6_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Currently there are only two ways to reach Greenland; fly in from Copenhagen or fly in from Reykjavik. On my way there last summer I chose to use some points and fly Saga Class on Icelandair from Seattle to Reykjavik. </p><p>I've had many very nice flights on Icelandair, especially when traveling in Saga Class. The only con is that the airline doesn't have layflat beds but if I'm getting off in Iceland it's a very comfortable ride. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208646960_518e3fd147_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208646960_518e3fd147_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>I had a snack and a glass of wine in the Saga Lounge at SeaTac, then settled in to 4F (and had an empty seat next to me!), did a little work using the free wifi you get in Saga Class, and enjoyed a really great happy hour followed by a delicious dinner. 7 ½ hours later we landed and I boarded the Flybus into Reykjavik. I always make reservations in advance so that I can just walk on but they have the buses lined up pretty well if you want to buy a ticket once on the ground.</p><p>I was booked in at the <a href="https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/rkvdi-ion-city-hotel-a-member-of-design-hotels/overview/" target="_blank">Marriott Ion City Hotel</a> which was in the Hlemmur area, right on Laugavegur. This was my 4th trip to Reykjavik and I was staying in yet another new-to-me area. The main reason I booked this particular hotel is that I had a coveted reservation at Michelin-starred Ox Restaurant that evening, which was connected to the hotel. </p><p>It was 11:30am when I arrived at the hotel and the front desk told me my room would be ready at 1:30pm. Great news as I was very much in need of a nap! I walked down Laugavegur and took myself to lunch at <a href="https://www.messinn.com/en" target="_blank">Messinn</a> for a bowl of delicious lobster soup. It was excellent!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208418374_d68a384669_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208418374_d68a384669_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>The Ion City hotel is very cute, nice modern design and the rooms are large by Europe standards (and only 16 of them). It is a little loud at night as it is right in the heart of the city, lots of bars and restaurants are close, but it wasn't too bad.</p><p>After my nap it was time to do a little happy hour crawl around town. First up was <a href="https://jungle.is/#/" target="_blank">Jungle Cocktail Bar</a> which more than a few people had recommended. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52207160922_8c2da2ff2a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52207160922_8c2da2ff2a_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>It's a beautiful bar, and more importantly the drinks were fantastic! I had only planned on staying for one but the menu was so interesting and the bartenders so nice that I ended up having two. Highly recommend and during happy hour, from 4-6pm, drinks were only 1600 ISK instead of 2600 ISK!<div><br /></div><div>My next stop was <a href="https://kokteilbarinn.is/" target="_blank">Kokteil Barinn</a>, which is a full cocktail bar on its own, but I wanted to enjoy a glass of bubbles while sitting in their Champagne Train!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52207165252_ca68036062_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52207165252_ca68036062_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>I had an absolutely gorgeous glass of 2015 Pol Roger Rosé for a fraction of the normal 3790 ISK since it was happy hour! And sitting in the vintage train car was very fun! I will absolutely come back here and try some cocktails in the main bar next time I'm in town. <div><br /></div><div>I walked down the block, back to my hotel, and checked in for my dinner at <a href="https://ox.restaurant/ox/" target="_blank">Ox</a>. Hidden in the back of Sumac restaurant and behind a closed door, is the Michelin one-star restaurant. 11 seats are gathered around an open, old-fashioned looking kitchen and 3 chefs were busy preparing our 20-course dinner.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208444044_c040712440_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52208444044_c040712440_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>I had such a fantastic time here! My dinner mates were all super fun and interesting and the food was spectacular! The menu lists the dishes by ingredients such as salmon + spruce + sea urchin and then the chefs walked us through each dish, usually while plating it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205594257_1860b9b907_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205594257_1860b9b907_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>Courses were paired with interesting wines, spirits, and juices and were hyper regional and seasonal. It felt like I was at a great dinner party with private chefs. I really loved it!</div><div><br /></div><div>In the morning I packed my bags and left them at the front desk so I could enjoy my day in the city. I found the absolutely delicious <a href="https://www.braudogco.is/" target="_blank">Brod & Co</a> just a few blocks down and bought a box of croissants and cardamom rolls to take to Greenland (I hadn't read about any bakeries in Ilulissat). One of the rolls even had licorice in it (Scandinavians love their licorice and I'm a big fan too!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205380927_85142fe98a_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="800" height="261" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205380927_85142fe98a_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>It was super sunny and warm out so I decided to take a long walk down to the waterfront. Strolling in Reykjavik is always interesting as the city is growing so much that there are always new things to see. And indeed parts of the town that I am pretty familiar with now have changed dramatically!</div><div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205290082_321515a231_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205290082_321515a231_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I did a big loop around the shipyard and marina and then made my way to the concert hall Harpa where I had lunch reservations at their newly opened restaurant <a href="https://www.hnossrestaurant.is/" target="_blank">Hnoss</a>. They had a lovely 2-course lunch menu offering; I had a delicious lamb tartare smørrebrød and also a prawn salad one. I really only needed to order one of these but I couldn't decide between the two!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206244343_c7d9bd52f9_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206244343_c7d9bd52f9_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>After lunch I stopped at <a href="http://www.kaldibar.com/" target="_blank">Kaldi Bar</a> and enjoyed a great gin & tonic outside on one of their picnic tables. The bartender joined me and while chatting I found out she was an actor and was in one of my favorite shows <i>Vikings</i>! A great way to finish up my quick Iceland visit!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206647060_9abb528b23_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52206647060_9abb528b23_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>What wasn't a great way to wrap up my visit was by realizing I had booked my Flybus for 3am instead of 3pm! After a frenzied call to the company I found out that there wasn't a scheduled bus for another 2 hours! I took a taxi to the main bus station and they graciously drove me in a shuttle to catch a bus on a different route that was headed to the airport. PHEW!</div><div><br /></div><div>All Iceland photos <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjA28DH" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;">Other posts from this trip:</div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/exploring-ilulissat-greenland.html" target="_blank">Exploring Ilulissat Greenland</a></div></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/michelin-stars-in-greenland.html" target="_blank">Michelin Stars in Greenland</a><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px;"><a href="http://www.luggagetagtrips.com/2023/03/up-close-to-greenland-glaciers-and.html" target="_blank">Up Close to Greenland Glaciers and Icebergs</a><br /></div>Wendy Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00129398892508107446noreply@blogger.com0